Newbie, not dumb, just ignorant... Two 24v 200ah Lifepo4 batteries w/a 48v SunGoldPower 10k Split Inv

[SolarLay]

Hello All and Thanks for you support in advance!

Literal Newbie, just ordered my items based on a lot of Will Prowse YT videos.

Looking at having the inverter and batteries in my basement near the electrical box. I WILL have an electrician come to install a transfer switch later to tie into house.

Some questions:

1. Can I wire the two 24v Lifepo4 200ah batteries to get 48v for my 48v inverter?
2. If so, can I do it with a total of 4 of these 24v batteries to get a total of 20,480wh banked?
3. How do I get all of these batteries prepared for a successful matching? Do I precharge with my DC power supply that Will recommended in his tools video?
4. I have a 200a DC circuit breaker, is that large enough?
5. I also have a 200a ANL fuse, is it the correct size?
6. Please note my wiring purchase list below and advise if that or any other item is insufficient.

Current parts list:

• 2pcs - QTQ 24V 200Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery, Max. 5120Wh Energy, Built-in 200A BMS, 5000 Cycles & 10 Years Lifetime
• 1pc - Sun Gold Power 48v 10k inverter with split phase and 2 MPPTs, model SPH10048P
• 1pc - CHTAIXI DC Miniature Circuit Breaker, 2 Pole 1000V 40 Amp Isolator for Solar PV System, Thermal Magnetic Trip, DIN Rail Mount, DC Disconnect Switch C40
• 2 pack - BOJACK 0/2/4 Gauge ANL Fuse Holder and 200 Amp ANL Fuses for 0 2 4 8 Gauge AWG Fuse Block, Fuse Box, Automotive Fuse Holder 200A (Pack of 2)
• 1pc - Bergen Industries Inc PS615143 3-Wire Appliance and Power Tool Cord, 6 ft, 14 AWG, 15A/125V AC, 1875w , Black
• 1pc - GearIT 0 Gauge CCA Ground Wire (25FT Each - Black and Red) All-in-One Kit: Crimping Tool, Cutter, 10 Lugs, and 20 Heat Shrink Wrap
• 1pc - GearIT, 8 Gauge Wire, for Automotive Power/Ground, Battery Cable, Car Audio, RV, Amp, CCA Wire, (25 feet Each- Black/Red)
• 1pc - GearIT 10AWG Solar Extension Cable (100FT Black - 100Ft Red) Male to Female Solar Connectors with Adapter Tool Kit
• 1pc - DC Power Supply Variable,0-30 V / 0-10 A LW-K3010D Adjustable Switching Regulated Power Supply Digital,with Alligator Leads US Power Cord Used for Spectrophotometer and lab Equipment Repair
• 5pcs - smseace 5pcs 25W 30ohm Ceramic Cement resistors ±5% Tolerance Cement resistors Used in Computer, TV Set, Apparatus
• 1pc - Surge Protector Power Strip (2100J), Anker 12 Outlets with 1 USB C and 2 USB Ports 20W, 5ft Extension Cord, Flat Plug
• 4pcs - 300 Watt Solar Panel, 1200W total - 12V 9BB Monocrystalline Solar Panels 600 Watt 1200 Watt 23% High Efficiency
• 1pc - ECO-WORTHY Solar Panel Dual Axis Tracking System (Expanded Version Increase 40% Power) with Tracker Controller
• 1pc - Upgraded Watt Meter Power Meter Plug Home Electricity Usage Monitor, Electrical Usage Monitor Consumption, Energy Voltage Amps Kill Meter with Backlight, Overload Protection, 7 Modes Display-With Cord

 

[sunshine_eggo]

Hello All and Thanks for you support in advance!

Literal Newbie, just ordered my items based on a lot of Will Prowse YT videos.

Looking at having the inverter and batteries in my basement near the electrical box. I WILL have an electrician come to install a transfer switch later to tie into house.

Some questions:

1. Can I wire the two 24v Lifepo4 200ah batteries to get 48v for my 48v inverter?

Probably. Do the batteries indicate they can be placed in series? Even if yes, this is not optimal. The two 24V MUST be at true 100% at the same time. If either of them deviate as a unit or via individual cells, you will experience disruptions.

1. If so, can I do it with a total of 4 of these 24v batteries to get a total of 20,480wh banked?

As above.

See link #6 in my signature.

1. How do I get all of these batteries prepared for a successful matching? Do I precharge with my DC power supply that Will recommended in his tools video?

Individually charge them to the manufacturer's specified voltage and confirm that they do not prematurely trigger over-voltage protection (OVP) as many batteries of all brands show up out of balance.

1. I have a 200a DC circuit breaker, is that large enough?

10000/51.2/.85 = 230A

You need wire capable of at least 230A and a Class T fuse 1.25X higher than the wire rating.

1. I also have a 200a ANL fuse, is it the correct size?

See above.

1. Please note my wiring purchase list below and advise if that or any other item is insufficient.

Current parts list:

• 2pcs - QTQ 24V 200Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery, Max. 5120Wh Energy, Built-in 200A BMS, 5000 Cycles & 10 Years Lifetime
• 1pc - Sun Gold Power 48v 10k inverter with split phase and 2 MPPTs, model SPH10048P

2X in series can't supply the needed 230A ot the AiO. You should also check the AiO manual for various ratings, cable/fuse ratings, etc.

Something else to consider: that unit is going to burn on the order of 150W of baseline power continuously even if no loads are being powered. That's 3.6kWh/day or about 35% of your battery capacity. Also, your first 700-900W of PV is dedicated simply to feeding the AiO's no-load power consumption. Your 1200W array will provide enough surplus to run a residential fridge in addition to the AiO loads.

Can't comment on the other stuff.

 

[robbob2112]

Buy nothing until you have a complete plan.

It is always better to buy the battery voltage you want than buy other voltages and string it in series. It will save you many problems with balance down the road.

Skip all the CCA cable, copper clad aluminum, is not useful in power applications. You need pure copper fine stranded wire for the dc connections.

Automotive battery cables are rated for a few seconds use at a time verse running high current continually through it and will be way to small. This is why they are cheaper.
25 ft red/ 25ft black CCA $62
25ft red / 25ft black copper welding wire $198 - pure copper costs, but is required.

1/0 Gauge Welding Battery Cable Kit - Includes 10 pieces of 3/8" Tinne

WindyNation's Power-Flex 1/0 Gauge welding and battery cable kit provides you with all of the necessary items to assemble your very own battery cables! Your kit will include power-flex ultra-flexible welding cable (several lengths are available for your convenience), 3/8" pure copper tin-coated...

www.windynation.com

Make sure the lugs you get are Temco, Selterm, FTZ, or marine grade tinned lugs. The cheap ones are to thin or not sized right and make for bad crimps.

For the crimper get Temco, FTZ, or other quality brand. A $50 AMZCNC hydraulic crimper will have dies that are metric marked as AWG.

If you don't want to spend the money on the good tools consider having your cables precrimped by windy nation or batterycableusa.

On the topic of tools - read through my signature link and the tools section - you will want a clamp meter that doubles as a general multimeter and also does DC amps - ideally with inrush.

Pretty much anything designed around car audio is useless in a power application... this means CCA, ANL fuses, the flat flip lever style breaker, class T holders and fuses... you want the JLLN series of class T verse the slow blowing kind used in car audio... and, not all knowledge around car audio is true in power builds...

12v solar panels won't work for 48v total unless stacked more than 3 in series, probably 4.

I suggest you get the Kill-o-watt meter first and do your power audit first before you buy anything else. Otherwise you will end up with a system that doesn't do what you want in the long run.

Also, realize you have a lot of energy you are dealing with. Done wrong it can burn the house down. Buy quality or buy twice (or more). Read, plan, and ask questions for a while before buying other stuff.