- Sep 9, 2021
Fuses are for the wires, not the equipment. Using larger wires and the correct fuses to protect those wires is fine. Saves money if you plan to upgrade later.Very nice diagram! This looks very close to what I envision except I will start about half this size and possible expansion. Wondering if this sounds reasonable: 2 100ah lithium, 2 100w panels portable for now, multiplus II (like simplicity, both lines back to rig panel, doesn't seem $$more than separate pieces), lynx power-in, 1 solar CC, & no Cerbo, display,etc? Questions: Would I be extremely oversized using your fuse and cable specs?
Not sure what you mean. The 50A fuse is a dual pole 240V AC circuit breeaker. The Blue Sea breakers are DC. Maybe they make an AC 240V/50A dual pole I haven't seen.Could the 50A breaker before the MP II be the Blue Sea din box or their breaker with the pushbutton/lever (not sure of technical name)?
The MPII powers the DC side of the rig panel, even if the batteries are disconnected. I know this because I did it yesterday while troubleshooting a buzz. You can also power the DC side with just solar or just batteries or just the TV. I don't have switches in place to isolate all the systems, so the DC side just takes whatever is feeding it and sends it off to the batteries for charging or the DC loads.Is there a direct way to power the DC side of the rig panel?
Two days ago I was running the inverter off the solar only. Panels were getting 800W and that was plenty to power the inverter and run the residential fridge.
My TV is a 2015 Chevy 2500HD gasser. I have a 160A alternator, 10ga wire to the 7 pin connector through a 30A fuse in the truck. That can deliver a whopping 13.2V @ 7 amps to the 5er batteries. I added a Victron 12-18 smart charger and that works a lot better. Just used the factory wiring.I see the DC/DC charger, but from what I gather from reading posts is that I don't need that with my TV ('21 F350 6.7) unless I want to fully charge the batteries-what is your TV?