• Have you tried out dark mode?! Scroll to the bottom of any page to find a sun or moon icon to turn dark mode on or off!

diy solar

diy solar

Newbie ready to join the solar crowd, maybe...

I hear loud and clear what y'all are saying... grid tie. We don't lose power very often at all and when it does go down it's not for long periods.

I'm not a good rule follower and don't like looking to others for approval for what I do but I absolutely understand the need for safety. My coop (SVEC) has a net metering agreement posted and it seems to be workable. Looks like I'm heading towards a grid tie system.

Do solar companies have Black Friday deals?

The 11.4 Growatt grid tie inverter for $1800 with the 15kw PV makes sense (thanks 1201).

Not really. Sig solar recycles the samec sales every couple of weeks

This is the grid tie inverter to get

$1700.

If you think you'll ever want to add a battery and critocal loads panel, spend a little bit more and get this one. It works without batteries but you can easily add a battery later



$2500
 
Found these panels on sale for almost half the cost of the BlueSun panels, any thoughts?


or

 
Last edited:
Found these panels on sale for almost half the cost of the BlueSun panels, any thoughts?


or

voc and vmp checks out. I would get the cheaper panels.
 
The SSM panes are 560w, VOC 53.5, VMP 45.7, ISC 13.1a

I was planning to order 22 panels, 12320w total

The max MPPT voltage for the Growatt 11.4 inverter is 550v, does that mean a max of 9 panels in series. 9 x 53.5= 481.5 x 1.12 = 539?

If so that would end up with 2 series string of 9 panels each and one series string with 4 panels all in parallel. Is that ok? Should the strings be exactly the same?

The growatt 11.4 will accept 4 different MPPT, should I plan to run each string in separately or combine them and run just one in?
 
I just joined the forum and have been reading so much great info and trying to absorb as much as possible. My hope is to squeeze in a diy solar system purchase before the death of the tax credit. I live in the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia and our rate is effectively $0.15 and I believe the coop has 1-1 net metering. Before I started reading on this forum the plan was a scalable grid tie system, hoping to stay as inexpensive as possible right now but expand when we can. Now I'm thinking maybe not a grid tie system but a stand alone with batteries? My goal is to save money, period. I don't really have a budget in mind and we have plenty of open space to place an array. I've attached the electric usage history, hopefully that's a good starting point. My service is 400amp with 2 Siemens 200amp panels, located in my unfinished basement. I am not a master electrician but I have many years of electrical experience and am planning to DIY this project even though I am a complete novice when it comes to solar. We don't loose grid power very often and almost never for very long so the batteries would be for cost savings overnight but not at all opposed to eventually being completely off grid, assuming we can keep all our modern conveniences.

I'm looking for recommendations for a scalable system. Should I grid tie or stand alone? What's a good jumping in price point with expansion in mind. Hopefully I've provided enough information to get the conversation started.

Matthew
Welcome!

I'm in the "Expandable Grid-Tie" crowd:

Set up grid-tie now, ensuring that you know for sure what the gotchas are in your current 1:1 net metering coop agreement. "The Grid Is My Battery" is the best of all worlds. This will also allow you to start datalogging with an Emporia Vue or equivalent to get an idea of the peak power (KW) and energy storage (KWHR) requirements for future steps.

Install as much solar PV as you can reasonably afford at this time, adding on later is more difficult than you think. Even if you have room to (for instance) add another ground-mount array identical to the first one, you won't be able to get the same parts (panels in the exact size, etc) in a few years.

Since you planned ahead, and got inverters that will support common batteries (16S LFP with common RS485/CAN interfaces and protocols, for instance), when (not if) the co-op changes the rules, add batteries to self-consume more of your production, time-shift your grid consumption, and maybe push power back into the grid if there are TOU tarrifs you can use. [Note, as above, if they are too lucrative for you, they _will_ change, and throw all your ROI calculations into disarray.]

Going fully off-grid is a big step and fraught with peril, but once you have a few years of experience with the above, you'll be able to make a new determination of the costs and benefits of the above. At $280/month, $3300/year, you don't have a lot of financial incentive to spend a lot on batteries and a backup solution for going completely offgrid.

Going fully off-grid requires redundancy, backup power (ChargeVerters from the grid(*), or generator, or fuell cell, of whatever the future holds), more batteries, and a lot more expense and risk. It doesn't sound like you really need to do that at this time, and the solar power market is changing monthly, so a perfect solution today is going to look very different from the one you design 5 years from now.

(*) Yeah, I know, CV from the Grid isn't really 'off-grid', and if your grid is stable and reliable, there's probably no point.
 
The SSM panes are 560w, VOC 53.5, VMP 45.7, ISC 13.1a

I was planning to order 22 panels, 12320w total

The max MPPT voltage for the Growatt 11.4 inverter is 550v, does that mean a max of 9 panels in series. 9 x 53.5= 481.5 x 1.12 = 539?

If so that would end up with 2 series string of 9 panels each and one series string with 4 panels all in parallel. Is that ok? Should the strings be exactly the same?

The growatt 11.4 will accept 4 different MPPT, should I plan to run each string in separately or combine them and run just one in?

The growatt 11.4 can do 600v so you should just be able to fit 10 panels per mppt with your 1.12 correction factor.

Strings can be different since the mppts are independent you could do 8,8,6

Always order a couple of extra panels just in case. So order 24 and if none break then just do 3 strings of 8.

I have 15kw of PV attached to my 11.4

14,14, and 11


DO NOT combine them. Run them all separately. The 11.4 cannot handle high amperage
 
So I would need a fused disconnect at the ground mount that would handle the 3 parallel strings along with an emergency stop button for each one since I'm running 3 sets of PV cables to the Growatt inverter? From there thru a disconnect to a 60amp breaker in my panel?

I know some of this is local code dependent, just trying to get a picture of what I need and what it looks like.

Thinking about using Greenlancer for the diagrams, permit stuff. Sounds like from the forum threads that they are expensive but pretty good. Any better alternative?
 
So I would need a fused disconnect at the ground mount that would handle the 3 parallel strings along with an emergency stop button for each one since I'm running 3 sets of PV cables to the Growatt inverter? From there thru a disconnect to a 60amp breaker in my panel?

I know some of this is local code dependent, just trying to get a picture of what I need and what it looks like.

Thinking about using Greenlancer for the diagrams, permit stuff. Sounds like from the forum threads that they are expensive but pretty good. Any better alternative?
One Emergency Stop button will shut down the one RSD transmitter and stop all the panels from producing power. You can get them for more than one but I prefer the one-rsd-per-panel model.
 
So I would need a fused disconnect at the ground mount that would handle the 3 parallel strings along with an emergency stop button for each one since I'm running 3 sets of PV cables to the Growatt inverter? From there thru a disconnect to a 60amp breaker in my panel?

I know some of this is local code dependent, just trying to get a picture of what I need and what it looks like.

Thinking about using Greenlancer for the diagrams, permit stuff. Sounds like from the forum threads that they are expensive but pretty good. Any better alternative?

Nope, not parallel. Individual strings, and you just need a dc circuit breaker on each string before going into the inverter
 
Been reading around about getting help with permits, drawings etc... reached out to GreenLancer. They want $2700. That seems really steep, the other threads were talking $1000 to $1500. Anyone have a good alternative?

GROUND MOUNT Permit + Structural & Electrical Engineering Review + 1hr Consulting​





$2,700.00​







Download Example (.pdf)


Our Solar Plan Set Design PLUS Structural & Electrical PE Review includes hybrid inverter, storage and on and off grid systems. Our cutting-edge projects are carried out by a group of talented engineers who want to transform our communities. *Please note that this service DOES NOT include battery mounts or EV chargers (additional fees may apply).


  • 7-10 Business Days
  • AHJ & Minor Revisions Included
  • 3 Free Re-Stamps
 
After watching Wills video -
- I started a list with pricing



10KW 48V Split Phase Solar Inverter sungold power $2,225
16KWH battery https://yixiangpower.com $1,869
pv disconnect Amazon $27
power distribution box Amazon $81
BlueSun 460W solar panels Signature solar $5,000
IntegraRack IR-30 Signature solar $3,000
wire, cables & connectors various sources $1,000

Total $13,202

The prices from Signature Solar roughly include shipping. I know that is not a complete list, still need conduit etc...

My bill averages $300 a month, $3600 a year for electricity. This system won't completely eliminate my bill but should reduce it greatly?

I didn't include the 30% from Uncle Sam. That would drop the total to $9242 and reduce the payback to under 3 years.

Are there better options for an off grid system? Are these numbers good enough to make it make sense?
My 10kW Sungold inverter has been online since Sept. 8th and has been operating trouble free the entire time. By midday today it has produced 655kWhs of pv power. I'm using server rack batteries and I really like them so far. Batteries will definitely make money with overnight discharging. I'm using 7kWhs per night, so I'm making about 84 cents while I sleep. You're gonna need a bunch of batteries.
 
I am going with a fixed angle. One calculator says 30 degrees, another says 36 degrees and a bunch of people seem to think the angle should match my latitude (38). Also direction doesn't seem to have to be perfect... according to the pvwatts calc. Not really much difference for my address for 30 to 36 degree angle and 140 to 180 degrees directional. Am I looking at this correctly?
 
I am going with a fixed angle. One calculator says 30 degrees, another says 36 degrees and a bunch of people seem to think the angle should match my latitude (38). Also direction doesn't seem to have to be perfect... according to the pvwatts calc. Not really much difference for my address for 30 to 36 degree angle and 140 to 180 degrees directional. Am I looking at this correctly?

Splitting hairs really
 
Back looking for help. I'm trying to complete the attached NMIN but struggling with the terminology. When I spoke with my local electric folks they emphasized the need for this form to be completed correctly or there would be delays. Specifically sections 3 & 4.

Panels are the SSM 560w bifacial https://www.santansolar.com/product/santan-solar-ssm-560w-mono-bifacial-solar-panel-grade-b/

Inverter is the Growatt 11.4 grid tie - https://signaturesolar.com/growatt-...3NM8ChcHUXb8POxMUWm7WO0djGNlabXkbV0L039xSYCSH

Thanks in advance
 

Attachments

Section 3. Information for Facilities
Inverter Induction Synchronous
Number of phases (check one): One
kW; AC 11.4 apparent kVA11.4; AC real kW;11.4
Generator Type (check one):solar
Frequency: Hz; 60
Rated Capacity: DC 11.7
Power factor %;1.0 AC voltage 240 ; AC amperage 47.5
Facility schematic and equipment layout must be attached to this form.
 
1201, you have been a true resource and it's appreciated. Be happy to send a little your way for a consulting fee...

Where did you get the rated DC capacity is 11.7?

How about the AC apparent & AC real are both 11.4?

Trying to learn along the way if possible. Thanks
 
1201, you have been a true resource and it's appreciated. Be happy to send a little your way for a consulting fee...

Where did you get the rated DC capacity is 11.7?

How about the AC apparent & AC real are both 11.4?

Trying to learn along the way if possible. Thanks

No fee necessary. I got a lot of help too. 👍.

11.7 is the maximum DC it will use. At 97.5% efficiency that allows it to output 11.4kw


The power factor is 1 so apparent AC and real ac are equal at the rated maximum ac if the unit(11.4 kw)
 

diy solar

diy solar

diy solar
Back
Top