MisterSandals
Participation Medalist
I suspect its called a Victron 100 and NOT a Victron 105 for a reason.
Wait, if you're trying to make 2S2P as was suggested this is all wrong.I then connect 2 x 100W in parallel, and get (5.7A x 2) = (11A & 20V) on my 2P. I then pigtail it into a 3 way union,
If you are looking for bargain solar panels, Santan Solar has a lot.Excellent. Right now I am running a training grid built with scratch and dent discount panels where I test racks, controllers, busbars, everything. It took two pairs of pigtails, and a set of Y connectors, and it was live. And, I sprang for Blue Tooth on my MPPTs, so I could watch myself on TV.
Yes, this is what I want.
Thank you, thank you, thank you.
But the MC4s are limited to 10 AWG, but you can butt splice 8 AWG into that.
using Victron MPPT 100-30. Is it possible for one of those to get stressed?
The 8 AWG MC4 cables I saw already had wire installed in the cables, so would still need to connect it to something to finish the connection to the SCC.You can get 8ga MC4 connectors, I think?!! I’ve for certain got 8ga solar panel to SCC cables (I know, overkill) and I’ve for sure crimped MC4 ends on it…I thought I I ordered 8ga MC4s
FWIW I run 4 100W 2S2Ptook two pairtook two pairs of pigtails, and a set of Y connectors, and it was live
I went to 8ga for overactive ocd imaginations of efficiency :D purposesAlso, the MC4 cables still have a 30 amp limit, just like the 10 AWG wire. 8 AWG can go higher, but not the connector.
You should link to them. Did you find 8 gauge crimpers for the connectors?I found 50A 8AWG MC4 connectors on Azon, but they're $3 a pair.
Not sure those are MC4 Connectors. I don't see MC4 in the description anywhere. The reviews give me the impression they are compatible, but I'm nto sure they plugged a MC4 to this connector. The reviews say there is a lock you can't undo and will need to destroy to disconnect. I may get a mixture of sizes of these for a project.
The solid copper ends claim 50A but description says 10ga wire… so 30Ahttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TQ5H6M7/ref=twister_B07TLXSLZS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And, I stopped trying to use a crimper from MC4. I found I could do far better and faster with just a simple pair of needle nose pliers. I have had zero failures doing it that way.
You may wish to check out the links posted here:The solid copper ends claim 50A but description says 10ga wire… so 30A
You aren’t doing a proper crimp with needle nose pliers, never mind “far better.”
There’s probably only one “proper” MC4 crimp (hex swage) though I do have a “B” crimper that I use that neither distorts the terminal nor allows any movement. Not lab tested but it’s wicked tight. Both these crimps swage the ferrule and I defy anyone to pull either of them out. The B actually isn’t faster and while I can start with one hand (convenient) it takes two hands for me to finish it. The hex tool is big and doesn’t slip in my pocket, takes two hands to operate to start but it bottoms the die first try every time.
Crushing the ferrules with needle nose is neither 100% contact nor is it more than a friction fit. Maybe it “works” but I wouldn’t do it.
Geesh.am certainly going to invest in the 8 gauge wire stripper.
Well, the stripper is only $125, and just last night I stripped 26 ends of 8 gauge Ancor wire (they have some really tough insulation). I think they would be worth it.Geesh.
I do like that stripper but I’m not in the mood to drop $500 for them right now (plenty of strippers and crimpers already, some even good!)
Is that Rennsteig brand on the 8ga MC4s? The “staubli” mentioned are like $18 each but the description is so botchy I’m not buying them (no mention of gage on amazonian)
Ya I hear thathave a tool problem