I’m with this thought.I vote for the hybrid system - 12vdc as much as possible and invert to 120ac only when necessary if battery is up for it.
I have no cabin and no practical experience (other than my little hobby system where the inverter proved to be a real hog!) but I always thought this was the way to go to avoid inverter losses.
My approach would be:
- fill the S-facing roof with panels (assuming you don't want to get into ground mounting panels)
- determine how much power these panels could support
- reduce expectations and live within the restrictions of available power
I run 12V lights but I use dual diode lensatic flood lights. Multiples (they are inexpensive) but for example just one over the stove is sufficient but others can be turned on by separate switches. If big light is needed I have low profile RV led ceiling lights.
I’d suggest buying to charge at 48V into a 12V bank. Then use as much 12V as possible.
I’m going to break that tradition this winter.
In summer I can run an electric fridge fine. I’m going to add panels and a couple more batteries and try electric fridge this winter. So I’ll need to insure enough for the inverter inefficiency as well as battery headroom and the additional Ah I will need.
I am going to rig a one-wire internally regulated GM alternator with a cheapo HF gas motor for the November/December cloudy period for just in case. That’s 80A of charge availability if I need it- retail generators are terrible at charging 12V imho. Not efficient, low amps.
there’s just so many great 12V items at a decent price from the marine and RV world I’m not ready to jump to all 120AC or 24V battery bank. However I can see how 48V from the panels could be a benefit.