Off Grid LED Lighting
- Thread starter DENWA
- Start date
gnubie
Solar Wizard
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2019
- Messages
- 3,844
Something like this? I have LED strip lights in my shed but rather than give them full 12v I run them at 11v via an ebay buck converter. The light level can be adjusted to suit. For me one light at 11v gives more than enough light to walk around and pick things up and if I need more light I can simply turn the voltage up with the buck converter (adjustable). Draw is around 2 watts at 11v. That's low enough that I don't bother turn the light off at all.
Most of these cheapie lights have poor heat dissipation and that's what does the LEDs in. Running them at lower voltage, say 11.5, still gives bright light but they run much cooler.
Most of these cheapie lights have poor heat dissipation and that's what does the LEDs in. Running them at lower voltage, say 11.5, still gives bright light but they run much cooler.
SCClockDr
Solar Enthusiast
I have several small/portable battery banks with USB ports. I plug in USB LED lights to them. I also make custom LED lights which I can dim so I can use even less power if I just want a moonlight mode, or full lighting mode. I'm sure they make these in "the wild" also. The power banks are recharged by a 12v lead acid battery which is charged by solar panels. It works great.
I also made a USB dimmer which can be used with any LED light. You plug any USB light into it and it dims the light for you. A 500k linear potentiometer works great.
They also make bulb-shaped LED lights with a rechargable battery in them and micro-usb port. You can hang these anywhere. Some are big enough to hold an 18650 battery, some hold a single AA cell.
Brighter LED lights use more power. How bright did you want the lights? Did you want them all on one string connected to one switch to make it easy to turn off and on?
They make 12vdc LED lights too with round plugs you use to connect to your DC power.
Here's a cheap 12v system with (too small) solar panel and 2 LED lights. https://smile.amazon.com/SUAOKI-Upg...lar+power+12v+led+light&qid=1574349297&sr=8-2 I prefer a much solar bigger panel, about 3 ft square mainly because my winters are very overcast for most of the winter.
I also made a USB dimmer which can be used with any LED light. You plug any USB light into it and it dims the light for you. A 500k linear potentiometer works great.
They also make bulb-shaped LED lights with a rechargable battery in them and micro-usb port. You can hang these anywhere. Some are big enough to hold an 18650 battery, some hold a single AA cell.
Brighter LED lights use more power. How bright did you want the lights? Did you want them all on one string connected to one switch to make it easy to turn off and on?
They make 12vdc LED lights too with round plugs you use to connect to your DC power.
Here's a cheap 12v system with (too small) solar panel and 2 LED lights. https://smile.amazon.com/SUAOKI-Upg...lar+power+12v+led+light&qid=1574349297&sr=8-2 I prefer a much solar bigger panel, about 3 ft square mainly because my winters are very overcast for most of the winter.
namesgolden
Solar Enthusiast
I use 12v LED strip everywhere possible. mount it where your eyes can't see the LED's.
5050's will use more energy than 3825's, strips with 60 led/meter will use more power than 30led/meter. you should dim them with PWM and not voltage, but I do typically run the ones I deploy at work at 10-11v to increase lifetime.
I try to mount them to something that will function as a heatsink, I can't say this has made a major difference.
strips are down to $8/16ft. get a decent soldering iron (the $20-30 refurb aoyue's from sra-solder are good) and some copper 2 conductor wire 16-18ga or so.
also look at RV lighting for fixtures and such. I'm converting my motorhome (all 12vdc lighting) to LED currently. using drop-in's from ebay/amazon for many locations. LED strip where the florescents used to be. in my case using half a LED strip in a floro fixture turned out great.
edit: I'm very happy with the supernight brand strips, specifically the seller "ebesttrade" on amazon/
katewu20152011 ebay. I've installed a few thousand feet of their products around work, when I had a 30a sled PSU die they replaced it with no hassle. shipping has been quick (they are west coast, I'm in AL and I've seen three days to me)
5050's will use more energy than 3825's, strips with 60 led/meter will use more power than 30led/meter. you should dim them with PWM and not voltage, but I do typically run the ones I deploy at work at 10-11v to increase lifetime.
I try to mount them to something that will function as a heatsink, I can't say this has made a major difference.
strips are down to $8/16ft. get a decent soldering iron (the $20-30 refurb aoyue's from sra-solder are good) and some copper 2 conductor wire 16-18ga or so.
also look at RV lighting for fixtures and such. I'm converting my motorhome (all 12vdc lighting) to LED currently. using drop-in's from ebay/amazon for many locations. LED strip where the florescents used to be. in my case using half a LED strip in a floro fixture turned out great.
edit: I'm very happy with the supernight brand strips, specifically the seller "ebesttrade" on amazon/
katewu20152011 ebay. I've installed a few thousand feet of their products around work, when I had a 30a sled PSU die they replaced it with no hassle. shipping has been quick (they are west coast, I'm in AL and I've seen three days to me)
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- "Mad" Max Speedwell
New Member
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2019
- Messages
- 17
I have lights! (on my other laptop).
This laptop gets a connection and the one with the off-grid light won't connect
BUT
Once I do get a connection I'll show you what I have.
This laptop gets a connection and the one with the off-grid light won't connect
BUT
Once I do get a connection I'll show you what I have.
- "Mad" Max Speedwell
New Member
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2019
- Messages
- 17
Here is a light I use.
I plan to build more.
For the most part, my lights in a small building in the woods are solar powered.
In the portable light shown below, I can unplug the Anker 26800, take it outside
and plug it into my H.F. 100w system. Need to upgrade the H.F. system to
400w@ 24v but that's another project....
I've attached a few photos of the prototype:
The light is made from off-the-shelf PVC, plumbing parts and a repurposed clear,
Lexan tube that is intended to slide over a florescent light tube. The Anker, switch,
and light strand are all plug & play (USB) at 5.2 volts. The draw is 5w @ 1 amp.
Lumens are about the same as a 20 watt incandescent. By using several of these
units in each room I can get the light from several directions, and also conserve
on power.
I want to build more of these portable, emergency lights with 24, internal
18650 batteries but I have no idea how.
I put the full text for these lights (and a cry for help!) in another thread.
-Max
I plan to build more.
For the most part, my lights in a small building in the woods are solar powered.
In the portable light shown below, I can unplug the Anker 26800, take it outside
and plug it into my H.F. 100w system. Need to upgrade the H.F. system to
400w@ 24v but that's another project....
I've attached a few photos of the prototype:
The light is made from off-the-shelf PVC, plumbing parts and a repurposed clear,
Lexan tube that is intended to slide over a florescent light tube. The Anker, switch,
and light strand are all plug & play (USB) at 5.2 volts. The draw is 5w @ 1 amp.
Lumens are about the same as a 20 watt incandescent. By using several of these
units in each room I can get the light from several directions, and also conserve
on power.
I want to build more of these portable, emergency lights with 24, internal
18650 batteries but I have no idea how.
I put the full text for these lights (and a cry for help!) in another thread.
-Max
Attachments
I am taking it this is area lighting for your living quarters?
Is there ac power?
Any power?
If you are using dc rv light retrofit led lights are great and many will allow an input range of like 8V to 32 or more Volts. This will allow use in pv charged battery based systems up to 24V. The highest charging Voltage has to be considered in loads unless power supply is between the battery that can accept the systems highest voltage is used to control output to loads as a step down or buck-boost etc.
I like a step down or buck boost switching powersupply to maintain 13.8V for 12V nominal appliance. Especially when dc water pumps are in the mix, and so will use an SPS to supply cabins and RV dc power distribution.
If you have or are going to have ac power on, ac light can be fine. Look for 100 or more limen per Watt and suitable light directivity for the area and task and the color hue you need or want.
This application will open the widest chouce in fixtures and replacement lamp tubes etc.
If you need spartan, dc strip or sign lighting stick-on mounted to a suitable support, like 1/8" or 1/16" aluminum flat bar stock or wood slat or something then mountable is great as are the led panel lights.
There is no doubt that a simple dc circuit from the battery or remote terminals such as dc distribution center or lvd lighting or load control (pv charge control?) to a dc led, most likely from rv, signage or specialty maker supply shops will be most efficient.
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Is there ac power?
Any power?
If you are using dc rv light retrofit led lights are great and many will allow an input range of like 8V to 32 or more Volts. This will allow use in pv charged battery based systems up to 24V. The highest charging Voltage has to be considered in loads unless power supply is between the battery that can accept the systems highest voltage is used to control output to loads as a step down or buck-boost etc.
I like a step down or buck boost switching powersupply to maintain 13.8V for 12V nominal appliance. Especially when dc water pumps are in the mix, and so will use an SPS to supply cabins and RV dc power distribution.
If you have or are going to have ac power on, ac light can be fine. Look for 100 or more limen per Watt and suitable light directivity for the area and task and the color hue you need or want.
This application will open the widest chouce in fixtures and replacement lamp tubes etc.
If you need spartan, dc strip or sign lighting stick-on mounted to a suitable support, like 1/8" or 1/16" aluminum flat bar stock or wood slat or something then mountable is great as are the led panel lights.
There is no doubt that a simple dc circuit from the battery or remote terminals such as dc distribution center or lvd lighting or load control (pv charge control?) to a dc led, most likely from rv, signage or specialty maker supply shops will be most efficient.
Power over ethernet lighting if you are computerse...?
this HTML class. Value is https://www.intl-lig
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Last edited:
- "Mad" Max Speedwell
New Member
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2019
- Messages
- 17
Yes, for now this is my area lighting.
I drive once or twice a week for a connection.
No AC power.
I drive once or twice a week for a connection.
No AC power.
How much light do you need?
Do you want a separate solar panel?
Do you want a whole system with the LED lights, solar panel, and battery?
How much do you want to spend?
I'll just post some random systems.
Solar security light. https://smile.amazon.com/Hikeren-Wa...=solar+power+led+light&qid=1579185343&sr=8-27
Flyhoom LED bulb with external panel and remote control, $11usd. https://smile.amazon.com/Flyhoom-Po...ower+led+light+camping&qid=1579185518&sr=8-17
Single LED bulb with external solar panel, 130 lumens is too dim for me. Panel looks undersized. But it might make a good trial system. https://smile.amazon.com/LightMe-Po...ower+led+light+camping&qid=1579185615&sr=8-62
Do you want a separate solar panel?
Do you want a whole system with the LED lights, solar panel, and battery?
How much do you want to spend?
I'll just post some random systems.
Solar security light. https://smile.amazon.com/Hikeren-Wa...=solar+power+led+light&qid=1579185343&sr=8-27
Flyhoom LED bulb with external panel and remote control, $11usd. https://smile.amazon.com/Flyhoom-Po...ower+led+light+camping&qid=1579185518&sr=8-17
Single LED bulb with external solar panel, 130 lumens is too dim for me. Panel looks undersized. But it might make a good trial system. https://smile.amazon.com/LightMe-Po...ower+led+light+camping&qid=1579185615&sr=8-62
I have LED lights all through my house that operate off the standard 120volts AC.
The only problem I have is that when the batteries are full and the charge controller is 'throttling back' the charging, the lights flicker.
In the evening when the system is running just on the batteries, no problem.
The only problem I have is that when the batteries are full and the charge controller is 'throttling back' the charging, the lights flicker.
In the evening when the system is running just on the batteries, no problem.
If I were lighting a small cabin I'd use 12V DC RV lights, something like this:
If you are sure you are never going to be connected to the grid, I would go with DC. This is much more efficient than using an Inverter to get AC.
But, if you think you might be connected to the grid one day you should go with AC and standard panel wiring. It will add to the resale value if you ever sell and make it very easy to connect without re-wiring the whole place.
If you are sure you are never going to be connected to the grid, I would go with DC. This is much more efficient than using an Inverter to get AC.
But, if you think you might be connected to the grid one day you should go with AC and standard panel wiring. It will add to the resale value if you ever sell and make it very easy to connect without re-wiring the whole place.
Some inverters will do this. Mostly mobile grade ones. Especially if you need to equalize lead acid..... mine does it too.
I also used to have a motion sensor connected to my hallway lightswitch. It would turn on, but when the circuit had timed out the bulbs would only dim, never go out fully. So as this happened at night I believe that the inverter is the culprit as you suggested.
Delmar
Solar Wizard
IKEA actually has a pretty good selection of inexpensive and attractive LED lights. Just look for the ones with a 12V plug adapter (wall wart) to cutoff and wire to the battery. They have 24V lights too.
Attached are my DIODER office lights running direct from the 12V battery. Ignore the fancy wiring routing, still have yet to install the wire clamps.
Attached are my DIODER office lights running direct from the 12V battery. Ignore the fancy wiring routing, still have yet to install the wire clamps.
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