bonuscup
New Member
Hi all, would appreciate a review of my system for safety and correctness. This is my first attempt at building out a solar setup. It's going in a fully built out pop-top camper setup in a Tacoma designed for self-sufficient remote camping.
System includes:
2x Epoch 105ah Essential series LifePO4 batteries
3x 100W BougeRV flex panels
Victron 100 | 50 MPPT
Victron Phoenix 12 | 500 inverter
Various 12v loads included in the diagram
Questions I have:
- Is 2/0 awg wire overkill for the batteries and main lines to the switch/shunt/bus bars? It's what I already have on hand (marine grade from Bay Marine)
- I've checked a few times but any feedback on my fuse and wire gauge sizes would be helpful
- Everything will be quite compact in a bench within the camper but each component will have sufficient breathing room. There is some ventilation but I plan to add an additional vent. Anything I need to be be concerned with?
- I've opted to use MRBF fuses for everything for safety and compactness (vs. breakers) w/ them integrated into the positive bus bar but curious if this is the best route
- I read somewhere that having a Class-T fuse before the switch is needed, but seems like overkill? I'm all for inexpensive insurance though.
Many thanks
System includes:
2x Epoch 105ah Essential series LifePO4 batteries
3x 100W BougeRV flex panels
Victron 100 | 50 MPPT
Victron Phoenix 12 | 500 inverter
Various 12v loads included in the diagram
Questions I have:
- Is 2/0 awg wire overkill for the batteries and main lines to the switch/shunt/bus bars? It's what I already have on hand (marine grade from Bay Marine)
- I've checked a few times but any feedback on my fuse and wire gauge sizes would be helpful
- Everything will be quite compact in a bench within the camper but each component will have sufficient breathing room. There is some ventilation but I plan to add an additional vent. Anything I need to be be concerned with?
- I've opted to use MRBF fuses for everything for safety and compactness (vs. breakers) w/ them integrated into the positive bus bar but curious if this is the best route
- I read somewhere that having a Class-T fuse before the switch is needed, but seems like overkill? I'm all for inexpensive insurance though.
Many thanks