Old guy learning new tricks...

[DavenFla]

Retired for 7 years from Florida Power & Light (substations/transmission) ... you guessed it, in Florida. Competent with all voltages up to 500KV and wiring both AC and DC circuits. (Recently built a shop (40'L x 30'W), so my next project is to provide solar powered. I'm on acreage so I'm not gonna do roof top panels. In fact I may put the panels on a 22' flat bed cargo trailer. I'll probably start with 12-100W panels with a distribution system capable of 3000-3500W of continuous AC output. This number based on my travel trailer, since I use 3500W generator (Champion 3500W Inverter duel fuel) when no hook ups/off grid RVing. MY AC unit uses 1750W when running, which is the highest demand appliance on my TT. This wattage is perfect for my needs and would also provide RV/shop power in the event of power outages. I have NO intention of using solar when traveling... at this time.

So I'm at the beginning of my build with lots to learn by asking lots of questions. Any tacit advise would be appreciated. My first question is ... I'm not sure I want to component build my system so I find the EcoFlow Delta Pro Portable Power Station looks very interesting to me. Checks all the boxes but if it sounds to good to be true, well you know. https://ecoflow.com/products/delta-...ontent=smart&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google
Reviews seem somewhat scattered between "it's a freakin' miracle" to "don't waste your money".

Sure would love to hear y'all's real world experiences and opinions. Thanks and glad to be here!

 

[rmaddy]

If you want to run A/C off of battery/solar, consider a mini split A/C unit. They are far more efficient than regular RV-style A/C units.

Why 100W panels? Instead of 12 100W panels you should consider 4 300W or 3 400W panels. It will be a lot cheaper and easier. Look around and see which combination best fits your flat bed.

 

[HRTKD]

I agree with using the larger panels. Fewer wires, faster install.

 

[John Frum]

Any tacit advise would be appreciated.

Why tacit?

 

[DavenFla]

Why tacit?

It wasn't limiting, it was meant to be inclusive. Is that how you understood my post as only tacit? Plenty of technical information to sort through that I understand, so tacit becomes more valuable when evaluating applications and usage. Feel free to evaluate my specifics... thanks.

 

[John Frum]

Is that how you understood my post as only tacit?

Combining tacit and engineering is a "bad idea"TM.
IMO we should all strive for explicit, direct and unambiguous communication.

 

[DavenFla]

If you want to run A/C off of battery/solar, consider a mini split A/C unit. They are far more efficient than regular RV-style A/C units.

Why 100W panels? Instead of 12 100W panels you should consider 4 300W or 3 400W panels. It will be a lot cheaper and easier. Look around and see which combination best fits your flat bed.

The AC is already in service on my RV. No need to change it. Regarding the panels... I like the pricing and redundancy.

Coming from an Electric Utility redundancy is your friend, so my 35 years of utility experiences has carried into my non work life. Again... I have NO intention of using the panels ON my travel trailer, but because I'm on acreage mobility is good for obvious reasons. Pricing, 2 100W panels were $150 on sale and I had a coupon. Total is $600 for 1200w (rated) watts, plus free shipping. That's a damn good price IMO. Space is a non issue. In fact ,my former employer (FPL) used 100W Renogy panels for multiple remote applications. They were very reliable and sturdy. So that's why I 'm going that direction and not with high capacity high dollar panels.

Here's the panels
https://www.renogy.com/100-watt-12-volt-monocrystalline-solar-panel-compact-design/

Any comments or opinions on the EcoFlow product I posted?

 

[DavenFla]

Combining tacit and engineering is a "bad idea"TM.
IMO we should all strive for explicit, direct and unambiguous communication.

OK... so any input on my OP specifics? Thanks

 

[svetz]

...in Florida...

Wind loading on panels in Florida is difficult. I'm in the keys and we use Miami's HVHZ codes... had to go no tilt and 3 rails to get approved.

... I'll probably start with 12-100W...

100W panels are usually more expensive per watt than > 300W panels and require more fasteners overall. But, they are lighter.

My first question is ... I'm not sure I want to component build my system

Microinverters are the cat's meow if you want to start small and scale-up. They have many incredible advantages, which is why I have them.
Unfortunately, if you want power when the grid's off you need AC coupling or Enphase's Ensemble solution which can make it quite pricey.

So I'm at the beginning of my build with lots to learn by asking lots of questions. Any tacit advise would be appreciated.

Check my signature below for some handy links. The Energy Audit is generally the place to start.

 

[HRTKD]

Today's Renogy may not be the same quality as what Renogy was putting out five years ago. Any of my friends that buy Renogy equipment are on their own.

But, since you already bought the panels, get them mounted and wired up. It's good you bought an even number of them in case you need to split them into different strings.

I have no experience with the portable solar generators. I have room to install components in unused spaces in my RV, but no room to store a portable solar generator.

 

[DavenFla]

Today's Renogy may not be the same quality as what Renogy was putting out five years ago. Any of my friends that buy Renogy equipment are on their own.

But, since you already bought the panels, get them mounted and wired up. It's good you bought an even number of them in case you need to split them into different strings.

I have no experience with the portable solar generators. I have room to install components in unused spaces in my RV, but no room to store a portable solar generator.

I wouldn't mount the solar generator in the RV, it would remain inside my shop or moved to another location, as needed...possibly. Options and flexibility is always good (for me) as long as nothing is over compromised.

Well 1200 W for $600 is a good starting point. All the reviews I've read seem to indicate the panels are robust and reliable, which confirms my previous experiences using them for/with remote monitoring equipment for the power company I retired from. For me... I prefer redundancy.

Thanks for your input.

 

[DavenFla]

Wind loading on panels in Florida is difficult. I'm in the keys and we use Miami's HVHZ codes... had to go no tilt and 3 rails to get approved.


100W panels are usually more expensive per watt than > 300W panels and require more fasteners overall. But, they are lighter.


Microinverters are the cat's meow if you want to start small and scale-up. They have many incredible advantages, which is why I have them.
Unfortunately, if you want power when the grid's off you need AC coupling or Enphase's Ensemble solution which can make it quite pricey.


Check my signature below for some handy links. The Energy Audit is generally the place to start.

I'm zoned agriculture. No permits or inspections needed.
1200 W for $600 I'm happy with that.
I will need 3500 watt capacity. This system I'm starting to build ,will be primarily for my shop and for my travel trailer when parked inside. I keep it plugged in with a dehumidifier running and keep the batteries maintained. I have used it for guests too, when we run out of space at the house. Living in Florida ... well you know, visitors all the time.

Thanks

PS... We go to Cudjoe Key every year with our boat. Our fav is Marvin Key. I'm quite a bit north of you in Martin County. My nephew is a Coastie stationed in KW, always a good time.