Orphaned system. Lead Battery Identification.

[Justkeepitsimple]

Gifted Orphan system

Hi all. I got gifted an orphaned system Im sorting through and reoptimizing into something more efficient/ useful. Was on a tradesmans box trailer for running light power tools. I think originally put together in 2008 -ish. See what you all think and need Help with battery Identification.


6V Nominal Sealed Lead batteries

External Marking stamps:

“ FA146VYK1A “ FA which I gather stands for “Factory Activated and sealed”
I think the “146V” is for 14.6V max absorption voltage (if accurate reflects they are AGM type?)
Google yields no close or exact match to anything that looks like the batteries in my possession.

“ RBO “ ?

And “ POS / NEG “ obviously.

Haven’t been in service for at least 6 months. Haven’t tried to run a load on them or charge them yet. Resting voltages:

6.29

6.32

6.41

6.53

At least 60lbs each

dimensions HxLxW 10”x10 1/4”x7”

Standard ASE Lead terminals and threaded auxiliary studs.

One case is getting bulgy. No sloshing when rocked so not flooded I think.

Worth putting into service? I am kind of inclined to core them out and get known good batteries of same new condition.

Run as 2S2P with 2/0 cabling with a 4/0 splice to the inverter.


One Single Kyocera 120 watt Solar Panel

Rated:
VOC 21.9
ISC 8.02

Still put out 21.5V on the multi meter seems minimal degradation but shattered glass . Bummer for a made in Japan Panel. Probably for the transfer station E-waste. Will save the mounting clamps/ rails.



Morningstar SUN SAVER PWM
SS-20L-12V
S/N : 08150183
12 Volt 20 Amp
The little gold nugget. Is an older version . I am thinking the most salvageable and useful bit of the system.
By chance anyone have a manual for one of this vintage? Morningstar has the newest version manual on their website got me the general idea but there are a couple differences between this vintage and the current version. I may have to email Morningstar customer support for that info.


XANTREX TR1512-120-60
SN: P10000772
Inverter/ AC battery charger
1500 watt 12V Inverter
120VAC 70 Amp Battery Charger
Manufacture date June 2008. Assuming the rest of the system is similar vintage. Batteries may be newer than that.



All the fuses and breakers are square D AC breakers and AC class T fuses of appropriate amperage rating but of doubtful usefulness on the DC side of the system. Was this a rookie mistake or common practice in the 2000’s?
I’m thinking of retaining the inverter/charger as an ocassional battery charger for the main system bank. It’s kind of a boat anchor for 1500 Watts of square wave AC.



I was thinking of making a smaller more optimized system (seems like solar charging capacity to battery capacity ratio was way too little). Maybe a mobile battery tender for vehicle batteries with a couple panels and the Morningstar charge controller? Or a dedicated small system with a 100Ah battery and and a Dc-Dc converter 12V to 56V DC to to run the Starlink system 24/7.


On the topic of Orphaned solar components does anyone have a spec sheet / manufacturer for these panels?


Got many for free. 12 Volt nominal system panels (still putting out 18 to 23 volts). I’ve seen them on many other older off grid systems in the area so I know at one point they were fairly ubiquitous available affordable (for the era). 40watt? 60 watt?
Dimensions: 1’ 1/4” x 3’ 1/4”. And that is all I know about them other than what they look like. No manufacture markings, or spec plate of any kind.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Justkeepitsimple]

Well based on nominal 6V voltage to SOC% correlation charts (since I can’t check SG sealed batteries) it appears they have some health left.

Went through by DEKA catalog and based on LxWxH dimensions cross referencing their 6V models it appears they’re somewhere in the 180-200 Ah golf cart type variety. Still don’t know if they’re Gel or AGM.

Still would like to know more about those mystery solar panels so I can close as possible max out that little PWM MorningStar and give them batteries at least 0.05C of charge current.

 

[seneysolar]

They look like golf cart batteries, given the age id replace, they will have core value if buying new.

The trace inverter and morningstar charge controller are generally solid as reliability goes. Just dated tech.

You can test with your panels, probably start with 2 paralleled and see what you can get.

 

[Justkeepitsimple]

Batteries no good for current draw. Hold good resting voltages, but drop to 10.0 when trying a 100 watt load. Good For core exchange. SCC works great with the 120 panel but it’s cracked glass means it’s only a matter of time before doomed for the recycling center.

Will make a better array to max out SCC.
Would like to buy 200 aH of new lead acid battery for the SCC.
I was inclined to get a single 12 Volt 200Ah deep cycle flooded lead acid. A friend said it’s more efficient to series (2) 6V batteries together? Not sure if he meant from a cost to aH ratio or electrically more efficient somehow?
(2) 6V @200 aH each = 200 aH @ 12 volt
(1) 12V @200 aH is exactly that.
[100 aH max useable for battery wellbeing]

I’ve seen people make 12, 24, and 48V banks out of the big expensive 2V and 6V Trojan/ Rolls battery cells. Why is this a common practice and how is it more efficient?

 

[rodrick]

A big reason for multiple lower volt batteries was to get more power storage, to get 600 ah capacity in native voltage like 48 volt would be a very large battery handling it would take a forklift or Crain

 

[seneysolar]

I was inclined to get a single 12 Volt 200Ah deep cycle flooded lead acid. A friend said it’s more efficient to series (2) 6V batteries together? Not sure if he meant from a cost to aH ratio or electrically more efficient somehow?
(2) 6V @200 aH each = 200 aH @ 12 volt
(1) 12V @200 aH is exactly that.
[100 aH max useable for battery wellbeing]

I’ve seen people make 12, 24, and 48V banks out of the big expensive 2V and 6V Trojan/ Rolls battery cells. Why is this a common practice and how is it more efficient?

The 6v batteries hold up much better than the 12v. Heavier plates are more tolerant to cycling, sulfation and heat.
Im my mind theres no such thing as a 12v "deep cycle" battery, its a lie...

12v battery in heavy use might only last 1-2 years.
(2x) 6v batteries likely go 6-10 years.

 

[Justkeepitsimple]

The 6v batteries hold up much better than the 12v. Heavier plates are more tolerant to cycling, sulfation and heat.
Im my mind theres no such thing as a 12v "deep cycle" battery, its a lie...

12v battery in heavy use might only last 1-2 years.
(2x) 6v batteries likely go 6-10 years.

Okay. So it would be fair to make a generalization (among reputable deep cycle storage application engineered lead acid batteries batteries (Trojan, rolls and others)) that the lower voltage the individual battery unit (like a 2V Trojan for example) the heavier duty construction the cathode-anode material, and therefore if treated right the longer the life expectancy?

 

[seneysolar]

Okay. So it would be fair to make a generalization (among reputable deep cycle storage application engineered lead acid batteries batteries (Trojan, rolls and others)) that the lower voltage the individual battery unit (like a 2V Trojan for example) the heavier duty construction the cathode-anode material, and therefore if treated right the longer the life expectancy?

To a point yes. Having big heavy plates with adequate spacing sure seems to be more forgiving. Ultimately sulfation is a calendar event that happens weather you use the battery or not. Back when our shop used to use Gill batteries, we would keep them dry until a customer purchased one, then add the acid. Gill had a pretty long shelf-life as dry charged prior to adding acid. Adding acid starts the clock.

But when they pack a bunch of thin plates in a battery to get 12V out of it, I think they just become light duty by default.