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diy solar

Over Voltage Issue

yantruocmot

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Feb 12, 2022
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I have recently added two additional 200w panels on the roof of my RV. I added two of the Newpowa 200w mono panels,

The RV had an existing GoPower 190w panel.

My charge current controller is the GoPower GP-PWM-30-SQ, which they said would handle the additional panels. But I know I am close to its max.
Link to the controller info - https://gpelectric.com/products/gp-pwm-30-sq/
Link to the controller spec - https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/catsy.549/SPEC_GP-PWM-30-SQ.pdf

We camped in CA over the weekend after installing the panels and experienced a "over voltage" situation where components in the trailer were acting up (thankfully the main computer system controlled it). It took a little bit to figure out what was going on, I eventually looked at my Victron shunt and it was posting 17-18v.

Nothing fried, I eventually disconnected the panels and all calmed down. After which the shunt quickly reported 14v.

Here is my question/questions:
1. Did the new panels over power the charge controller and just freak it out such that it couldn't control its output voltage?
2. I have planned (already have part, just didn't have time before hand) to replace that controller with a Victron 100/50 12v controller, will this correct the issue?
3. I have a inexpensive LifePo4 battery, not the worst but definitely not the best, could the problem have been caused by its BMS not working/cutting power? (I should note, I physically did disconnect the battery and still had no change in voltage from panels to rest of the system. I didn't have the ability to flip a breaker for the panels, will in final product)

Am I missing something else maybe? I had not ever heard/read etc anyone talking about anything like this before and couldn't find it on the forum.

Thanks, in advance for the help/info!
 
Very common.
The batteries were full, and the bms disconnected.
Lower your charge settings below 14V per bank
 
Thanks for the quick response, the current controller does not have any ability to be adjusted but I am pretty sure that that I have seen this setting on the Victron. So to be clear this limit should stop something like this from happening again in the future (with the Victron)?
 
How are the panels wired? All in parallel I assume since this is a PWM controller with a maximum input of 25V. You're definitely over paneled with 600W of solar and a 12V battery. That controller is really designed for two parallel 200-ish watt panels (400W total). Beyond that, you really need to upgrade to a larger solar controller. As is, I'd probably take the OEM 190W panel out of the circuit and just have the two, matched Newpowa panels running in parallel.
 
Correct, they are in parallel. Once I replace the controller I will also be adding a few additional batteries (already have) but will still be 12v overall.
 
A Victron MPPT wouldn't need to have this limit set. All you really need to know with the Victron is to not exceed the Maximum PV Input Voltage. Since those panels are in parallel, I doubt you would hit that. Set the Victron MPPT to a LiFePO4 charge profile and adjust the charge voltages if you feel like it.

Before you buy a Victron MPPT, use the Victron MPPT calculator to make sure you buy the right one.

 
The causal link between PWMs and battery fires cannot be overstated!
current controller does not have any ability to be adjusted
Throw that controller away if you cannot adjust it. Holy cow.
Don’t give it away. Destroy it.

There’s pwm’s that work well but that unit sounds dangerous. Or it is meant for lead acid batts but 17V is way too high anyways
 
Throw that controller away if you cannot adjust it. Holy cow.
What PWMs are adjustable today?

From the official Victron literature - 'Three stage battery charging (bulk, absorption, float), fully programmable.'


I doubt if this is so other than setting the battery type .....can anyone with one of these Victron PWMs correct me?

Edit- Could these pwms reset themselves to 24v when the bms cuts off?.....this may account for the 17v!
 
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Agree, the PWM is being disconnected this weekend and replaced with the MPPT, all wires are run just need to hook them up. Also to be clear the PWM is a GoPower 30amp model, not a Victron. I am replacing it with a Victron MPPT 100/50.

The GoPower does have a Lifepo4 setting, which it is on, I believe the panels just overwhelmed it and thankfully didn't start a fire!
 
What PWMs are adjustable today?

From the official Victron literature - 'Three stage battery charging (bulk, absorption, float), fully programmable.'


I doubt if this is so other than setting the battery type .....can anyone with one of these Victron PWMs correct me?

Edit- Could these pwms reset themselves to 24v when the bms cuts off?.....this may account for the 17v!

FWIW, the Victron Connect app in demo mode might be able to answer if the PWM solar charge controller can be programmed or not.
 
FWIW, the Victron Connect app in demo mode might be able to answer if the PWM solar charge controller can be programmed or not.
From what I can see from the manual there is no connectivity with these. They are basically the same as any generic cheap PWM with possible better components to justify the higher price since they probably come out of the same Chinese factory as its cheaper clones.
I just used the Victron as a random sample to highlight a common problem the op has to many others when using pwms and that is overvoltage.
 
I know nothing of this one but will double down and say it is the same as the majority....no useful configuration adjustable!
If you follow the link, it goes to the manual for customizing…

Pwm is fine with small sets of panels at the charging voltage… more efficient than mppt at those levels as well…
 
We camped in CA over the weekend after installing the panels and experienced a "over voltage" situation where components in the trailer were acting up (thankfully the main computer system controlled it). It took a little bit to figure out what was going on, I eventually looked at my Victron shunt and it was posting 17-18v.

It sounds to me like your BMS is disconnecting the battery terminals, so the charge controller is going to open circuit voltage. Usually when this happens it bounces back and forth between high and low volts while all your loads freak out. Switching to a MPPT in this scenario won't help anything, and you'll eventually damage the new controller. Of course if you can lower the charge voltage of the new controller that should solve things (mask BMS problems) .

3. I have a inexpensive LifePo4 battery, not the worst but definitely not the best, could the problem have been caused by its BMS not working/cutting power? (I should note, I physically did disconnect the battery and still had no change in voltage from panels to rest of the system.

Yes. Is this a blue battery?
 
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If you follow the link, it goes to the manual for customizing…
My bad,,,,
However from a review, positive one at that, "Now the bad news. This is NOT a three stage charger. You set the charge voltage and that is what it will charge at, given enough sunlight. It will NOT automatically go into Boost mode or De-sulfate mode. You can set the charge voltage to 14.4 volts and it will continue to charge at that voltage until the battery gets cooked (or it gets dark, whichever comes first). Or simply set the maximum charge at 13.2 and forget it. This is a "hands-on" charger."


That quote really sums up the issues with PWMs. They are a very capable little $10 charge controller and do exactly what they are intended for BUT come with limitations. Specially when used outside of intended use....the date for that user manual is 2017 and noway could it foresee the newer large capacity Li batteries(edit: with BMS) or PV outside the 80w camping panels they were designed for.
 
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quote really sums up the issues with PWM
Maybe not. The reviewer imho didn’t actually use it.
I ran it for ~3 years. It is adjustable and does monthly equalize. My lead batteries didn’t get harmed. It worked well and has watt summary. Basic stuff. It works and is programmable.

Is it the anathema? No, but it successfully made coffee, provided lights, charged my phone and laptop, and pumped water for several years. The $10 clones lack many features but I own that and I used it. They sell it for a high price ($50) but it works.
 
That quote really sums up the issues with PWMs.

No, no it doesn't. At all. It has nothing to do with PWM's, just that particular PWM. There are plenty of good PWM's out there, and many pieces of junk also. You are blaming an obvious BMS issue on PWM? There are many cases where a PWM will outperform an MPPT. Use the right tool for the job.
The causal link between PWMs and battery fires cannot be overstated!
Can you post a link?
 
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