diy solar

diy solar

Over Voltage Issue

No, no it doesn't. At all. It has nothing to do with PWM's, just that particular PWM. There are plenty of good PWM's out there
The review referenced was typical: complaints by a person with poor understanding that thinks the limit of knowledge is his understanding- which is lacking. It’s not that pwm. I used one up to 400W of panel for several years. I still have it, keep it in case I need or want it.
 
My bad,,,,
However from a review, positive one at that, "Now the bad news. This is NOT a three stage charger. You set the charge voltage and that is what it will charge at, given enough sunlight. It will NOT automatically go into Boost mode or De-sulfate mode.

That reviewer is an idiot. A three stage charger has absolutely nothing to do with boost mode or de-sulfate mode. That charger IS way overpriced, but that is a different topic.
 
(I should note, I physically did disconnect the battery and still had no change in voltage from panels to rest of the system. I didn't have the ability to flip a breaker for the panels, will in final product)
Typically a controller needs a battery connected to properly regulate the voltage. If the BMS disconnected it may have rendered the controller unable to regulate. Removing the battery did not really help. I understand the thought to pull the cables on the expensive battery. Best to disconnect the solar panels first.
 
Update on situation. I have installed the Victron MPPT and it has solved the issue, no over voltage issues anymore.

Somone asked if the battery was the "blue one", I assume that is in reference to the cheap ones off ebay. It is not, the battery I was talking about is a EcoWorthy 100ah, the blue one might actually be better! I have also added two additional HQST 100ah batteries, these are just rebranded Renogy but I was able to grab them at $350 each, felt I couldn't beat that price for a decent battery with low temp protection (link for this one, https://www.enfsolar.com/pv/storage...n=enquiry_company_directory&utm_content=14607)

Speaking of the cheap blue batteries, I ran across this video, wondered if this is their source of cells?
 
1. Many solar controllers regulate on the Ground Line not the + line. (+ line would be a touted sales feature).
For these: If you short the solar controllers grounds together you will get full solar collector voltage.
2. Maybe... many are dual 12v-24v, voltage mode decided by connecting battery first.
3. Equalization is 15V, but your seeing 17v. Lithium charge mode does not do equalization.
4. Over Current Damage: The switching FETS might be internally shorted now.
Disconnect solar controller and check for shorts, Gnd to Gnd and + to +. Both shorted is real bad, one is ok.
PWM is more susceptible to over current damage.
 
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Typically a controller needs a battery connected to properly regulate the voltage.
This is not actually correct. Once the PWM CC is initialised by the battery, or any other voltage source, it is independent of the battery other than it being just another load.....a lead acid battery does provide a lot better variable load it seems than newer bms protected li ones, but that is as far as it goes.
Once initialised and the sun is shining they are off with a mind of their own. When the sun shines, what they see as 'battery voltage' is what they are producing. Any presumed regulation beyond the pwm voltage control would have to be from a timer if they have one since they have no other capability.
 
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