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Overkill BMS lead not fitting Lynx Distributor

JJJJ

Aspiring apprentice
Joined
Feb 25, 2021
Messages
1,592
Funny how these projects work out. It reminds me of the old 20-80 rule. 20 percent of the project takes 80 percent of the time.

I purchased the Overkill BMS with the leads attached to the negative wires.

So far so good. However the lug on the end of the negative lead is just a little smaller than the attachment bolt for the Lynx Distributor attachment site.

I am considering drilling the hold out just a little so it fits. Anyone with a better idea? Much appreciated either way.

On the other hand, would it be acceptable to bolt the BMS lead to another section of wire with a bigger lug on the end? If this works, I would do it for each of the batteries.
 
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Funny how these projects work out. It reminds me of the old 20-80 rule. 20 percent of the project takes 80 percent of the time.

I purchased the Overkill BMS with the leads attached to the negative wires.

So far so good. However the lug on the end of the negative lead is just a little smaller than the attachment bolt for the Lynx Distributor attachment site.

I am considering drilling the hold out just a little so it fits. Anyone with a better idea? Much appreciated either way.

On the other hand, would it be acceptable to bolt the BMS lead to another section of wire with a bigger lug on the end? If this works, I would do it for each of the batteries.
It depends on the actual measurements. I would drill it so long as you are not removing much current carrying ring. Most rings are about a 1/16 inch over the size studs they are intended for. If another 1/16 inch will get you what you need l would do it. If it’s more to remove I would remove the existing terminal and replace with the correct size. I would not bolt two together. Every connection increases the resistance.
 
If you really didn't want to make the ring terminal bigger you could always drill a smaller hole into the lynx busbar.
 
I would put a new lug on the end of the BMS lead.

Drilling out a lug can be challenging. If you really want to go that route, be sure to secure the lug to something so that when the drill bit grabs it, it doesn't start wrapping the BMS lead around the drill bit.
 
It really depends on how much bigger the hole needs to be. I don't want to assume how much a "little bit" is.
 
I just had to do this exact thing. I drilled it out and the filed it to make sure it was flat and it worked fine...
 
Pretty sure it's 3 wires into one....how do you size the lug for that? Trial and error?
This is the reason I got the BMS with the treaded M6 bolt holes...made my own cables.
You want the wires as tight as possible so when you crimp it everything locks and plays well together.
 
A friend of mine is a mechanic. He ran a dial caliper on it. From there we were able to determine the bit size.

Following tricks mentioned on different threads I held the lug over a piece of wood and ran the drill backwards. I finalized the size with a drummel tool. There is still quite a bit of lug below the hole that will still be in contact with the bus bar.

F060CA1A-D24E-4D18-9C31-237E0EAF79DA.jpeg
 
Here is an updated photo. I tapped into tools and supplies I had from the old Pinewood Derby days in scouting. A nail file did remove burrs but left some grooves. I changed over to a beveled grinding stone for the dremmel. I tapped into some 2000 grit sandpaper and it is helping me polish the grooves out. Next time I may bypass the nail file altogether.
6E9F1B1A-3738-4B60-87C4-58BC9AB872DC.jpeg
 

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