That's interesting the way you did the spacers .... can you post a picture from the top please.
. . . and your recommendation for the type of foam to use is . . . ?foam is the way to go in a mobile application for sure.
I just used the kind you can get in a can at home depot or walmart....etc. I then sprayed the bottom of the box and used a piece of flat metal and evened it out. I then put each pack that I just taped together in the box and filled the voids with expanding foam. I just used cheap noco battery boxes from walmart since I dont have to ever look at em, and with the foam the things are solid and let you route direct leads through the sides because I don't like to do the double terminals thing, I prefer the negative to come from the bms and connect directly to my busbar along with the positive. I think its less failure points this way too. I've had no problems and I like to take back roads with lots of bumps. To be fair though, my converted box truck RV does have HUGE tires and its a dually ford from 1985 so nothing ever even moves where the batteries are. the suspension is super overkill for my use which is awesome. . . and your recommendation for the type of foam to use is . . . ?
I've snipped your pictures of the 4S sub-assembly from this two-question "query" about it. Your new and bigger picture is way different, but I'd like to get your advice concering a small 4S battery which I am building (wth compression):Made a little more progress on my build.
Im sorry, Im having a bit of a difficult time visualizing your description and I can imagine a few different ways you might be trying to describe. Would you mind posting a sketch?I've snipped your pictures of the 4S sub-assembly from this two-question "query" about it. Your new and bigger picture is way different, but I'd like to get your advice concering a small 4S battery which I am building (wth compression):
#1 You're using double layers of 1/2" plywood to handle the compression, and maybe to add some kind of additional "spreading" between adjacent cells. If my 4S cells will be free on the narrow and tall sides (not the bottom), do you think that I may simply put thin film or foam between the cells, avoiding all the extra insulation which the plywood added between cells?
#2, I've got some 3/16" steel plate lying around, of nearly perfect size for the bigger faces of my small (120Ah) cells. There is enough extra room to drill the corners for my spring-loaded compression rods. But it will be hard to attach to a nice base. The ONLY advantages of using steel plate are #1, it will have less bending and twisting when my rods apply compression forces; #2, the faces provide a good surface to conduct heat; and #3; they are fire-proof. But they are also conductive to electricity, and MUCH hard to attach to any outer case structure. Do you think I should use my plates, or switch to all-plywood?
Thanks in advance.
Just like this earlier picture of yours https://diysolarforum.com/attachments/20210311_203444-jpg.40662/, but maybe using 8x8" metal plates on the ends (and probably skipping 2 layers of wood between adjacent cells). Wondering mostly whether wooden ends 1" plywood or 2x 1/2" plywood are "just as good" as 3/16 steel. Just your opinion, whether my prospective extra drilling trouble (for 4 compression rods) would have any value at all. Thanks in advance!Im sorry, Im having a bit of a difficult time visualizing your description and I can imagine a few different ways you might be trying to describe. Would you mind posting a sketch?
Just to clear up a little miss understanding. There isnt any double layers of plywood. In between the aluminum square tube from one side to the other, there is 3/4" plywood end plate, 3/4" plywood strip that is 3/4" wide, a cell, 3/4" plywood strip, 1/4" plywood, 3/4" plywood strip, a cell etcJust like this earlier picture of yours https://diysolarforum.com/attachments/20210311_203444-jpg.40662/, but maybe using 8x8" metal plates on the ends (and probably skipping 2 layers of wood between adjacent cells). Wondering mostly whether wooden ends 1" plywood or 2x 1/2" plywood are "just as good" as 3/16 steel. Just your opinion, whether my prospective extra drilling trouble (for 4 compression rods) would have any value at all. Thanks in advance!
I've snipped your pictures of the 4S sub-assembly from this two-question "query" about it. Your new and bigger picture is way different, but I'd like to get your advice concering a small 4S battery which I am building (wth compression):
#1 You're using double layers of 1/2" plywood to handle the compression, and maybe to add some kind of additional "spreading" between adjacent cells. If my 4S cells will be free on the narrow and tall sides (not the bottom), do you think that I may simply put thin film or foam between the cells, avoiding all the extra insulation which the plywood added between cells?
#2, I've got some 3/16" steel plate lying around, of nearly perfect size for the bigger faces of my small (120Ah) cells. There is enough extra room to drill the corners for my spring-loaded compression rods. But it will be hard to attach to a nice base. The ONLY advantages of using steel plate are #1, it will have less bending and twisting when my rods apply compression forces; #2, the faces provide a good surface to conduct heat; and #3; they are fire-proof. But they are also conductive to electricity, and MUCH hard to attach to any outer case structure. Do you think I should use my plates, or switch to all-plywood?
Thanks in advance.
WOW! I Love that you did all of the math for me. (And I would be incapable of applying the concepts and formulas with your skill, your effort didn't just 'save my time'.) The 3/16 plate will have a lot less flex than 1/2 plywood, probably being comparable to 3/4" plywood - but it also has the advantage of avoiding structural collapse, when the compression bars are mounted directly on the plate (with only a washer to spread the force of each spring onto a small area). With plywood, the outside face is likely to collapse underneath the washer. Your aluminum bars remove that problem, but at a slight cost in increased size. only at the cost ofI ended up going with 3/16 steel, but not exactly for the rigidity. Based on some math, I can rely on the flex of the steel instead of using springs to provide compression in the general range we are looking for.
Current design is here: github.com/natecostello/van_two_point_oh/blob/master/electrical/battery/Battery_box_design_final.md
Concepts leading to it, including some comparative calcs on bending of various material thicknesses that may be of interest is here: github.com/natecostello/van_two_point_oh/blob/master/electrical/battery/Battery_box_design.md