I decided to upgrade my RV so I could extend the time I spend off grid with having to run the generator.
I started with a basic RV electrical system with a PD9160 converter with Charge Wizard, Two 12 year old, used up T-105+ FLA batteries in series and alternator charging of the house batteries via an isolater.
I ordered an HQST kit with 2 x 100w Monocrystalline panels and their 20A MPPT solar charge controller. For Batteries, I ordered a set of 2 Lion Energy UT-1300s from Costco. I picked up and AiLi Battery monitor to keep tabs on the batteries and I have been gradually accumulating all of wire, switches, breakers, fuses etc. to be able to complete the install have a 1500w Xantrex XPower inverter that I've been carrying around for years and never got around to installing. My current plan is to shut off the breaker to the converter when not hooked to shore power and plug the shore power cord into the inverter to give me 110V throughout the trailer.
After running the batteries down a bit with mt refrigerator test described below, I wired them up to the PD9160, and was able to fully charge them quickly at 45-55a by using the Charge wizard button the override the default 4 stage charge profile and force it into boost mode, where it topped out at 14.53V before the BMS stopped the charging. I then dropped the converter back to normal mode which floated at about 13.65V with the converter handling the 12V loads and the batteries staying fully charged. It's not a fully auto-pilot match to the LiFePO4 batteries, but with a little intervention and caution, it should work well until I commit to Phase 2 of my build.
The main load that I have to contend with is my refrigerator, which is a small residential unit that I swapped in a couple years ago when the original absorption refer gave out. I did a 7 hour run test last weekend, running the fridge off the inverter connected to the batteries and used about 20 Ah in the 7 hour test, putting me at about 70-75 Ah per day of load due to the fridge. If the residential fridge becomes too much to deal with, I'll look into the new Dometic 12V compressor drop-in model, but after enjoying a compressor fridge for a few years, I can't see going back to an absobtion fridge ever again. Most of the other loads will light by comparison. The microwave and coffee maker are only used rarely and all of the main lights in the trailer have been upgraded to LEDs. We do have 3 fantastic fans, but outside of shower time, we usually only run 1 on low to keep a little air moving through the RV when needed
Here is a drawing of what I am thinking so far. The heavy line at the bottom is meant to represent the RV chassis
The cables paralleling the batteries are 2 awg, The cable from the negative of the battery to the shunt is 1/0. I ordered the 350A shunt, but the one I received is marked 500A. The double terminal mount fuse block will be attached directly to the positive post with a 250A fuse to the inverter and 75A fuse to the 12V power center & converter. The inverter came with cables that I plan to use, I believe the are 1 awg, but they are not marked. When I wire the switch in the positive wire, I'll find out. The existing cable to the power center and converter is 6 awg. I think the wire that comes with solar kit is 12 awg and I will run 10 awg from the solar controller to the batteries through a 25a circuit breaker. I have switches to disconnect the solar and the inverter. There is an existing storage mode switch in the RV to disconnect the batteries from the 12V load center. My plan is to forego charging the house batteries from the alternator at this time and figure out how much of a need there is before making that investment. Most of the places I drive seem to get full sun, so we'll have to see how that works out.
Of course I am looking for any input/feedback or concerns that other more experienced DIYers may have.
Assuming this works as expected, I may start planning for Phase 2 of this adventure. On the roof of my RV, I have room for a total of 13 of the 36x26 panels like the 1st two I ordered, and I have been researching high SEER mini-split installations. Of course that would involve more batteries and possibly push me into 24V territory
Thanks
Chris W
I started with a basic RV electrical system with a PD9160 converter with Charge Wizard, Two 12 year old, used up T-105+ FLA batteries in series and alternator charging of the house batteries via an isolater.
I ordered an HQST kit with 2 x 100w Monocrystalline panels and their 20A MPPT solar charge controller. For Batteries, I ordered a set of 2 Lion Energy UT-1300s from Costco. I picked up and AiLi Battery monitor to keep tabs on the batteries and I have been gradually accumulating all of wire, switches, breakers, fuses etc. to be able to complete the install have a 1500w Xantrex XPower inverter that I've been carrying around for years and never got around to installing. My current plan is to shut off the breaker to the converter when not hooked to shore power and plug the shore power cord into the inverter to give me 110V throughout the trailer.
After running the batteries down a bit with mt refrigerator test described below, I wired them up to the PD9160, and was able to fully charge them quickly at 45-55a by using the Charge wizard button the override the default 4 stage charge profile and force it into boost mode, where it topped out at 14.53V before the BMS stopped the charging. I then dropped the converter back to normal mode which floated at about 13.65V with the converter handling the 12V loads and the batteries staying fully charged. It's not a fully auto-pilot match to the LiFePO4 batteries, but with a little intervention and caution, it should work well until I commit to Phase 2 of my build.
The main load that I have to contend with is my refrigerator, which is a small residential unit that I swapped in a couple years ago when the original absorption refer gave out. I did a 7 hour run test last weekend, running the fridge off the inverter connected to the batteries and used about 20 Ah in the 7 hour test, putting me at about 70-75 Ah per day of load due to the fridge. If the residential fridge becomes too much to deal with, I'll look into the new Dometic 12V compressor drop-in model, but after enjoying a compressor fridge for a few years, I can't see going back to an absobtion fridge ever again. Most of the other loads will light by comparison. The microwave and coffee maker are only used rarely and all of the main lights in the trailer have been upgraded to LEDs. We do have 3 fantastic fans, but outside of shower time, we usually only run 1 on low to keep a little air moving through the RV when needed
Here is a drawing of what I am thinking so far. The heavy line at the bottom is meant to represent the RV chassis
The cables paralleling the batteries are 2 awg, The cable from the negative of the battery to the shunt is 1/0. I ordered the 350A shunt, but the one I received is marked 500A. The double terminal mount fuse block will be attached directly to the positive post with a 250A fuse to the inverter and 75A fuse to the 12V power center & converter. The inverter came with cables that I plan to use, I believe the are 1 awg, but they are not marked. When I wire the switch in the positive wire, I'll find out. The existing cable to the power center and converter is 6 awg. I think the wire that comes with solar kit is 12 awg and I will run 10 awg from the solar controller to the batteries through a 25a circuit breaker. I have switches to disconnect the solar and the inverter. There is an existing storage mode switch in the RV to disconnect the batteries from the 12V load center. My plan is to forego charging the house batteries from the alternator at this time and figure out how much of a need there is before making that investment. Most of the places I drive seem to get full sun, so we'll have to see how that works out.
Of course I am looking for any input/feedback or concerns that other more experienced DIYers may have.
Assuming this works as expected, I may start planning for Phase 2 of this adventure. On the roof of my RV, I have room for a total of 13 of the 36x26 panels like the 1st two I ordered, and I have been researching high SEER mini-split installations. Of course that would involve more batteries and possibly push me into 24V territory
Thanks
Chris W
