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Please Help with newly built system. Victron Multiplus 12/3000 not working

shannoniganz

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Joined
Jan 24, 2022
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Hi all. I am having trouble with my Victron Inverter/Charger in my new electrical setup. My battery bank is showing a voltage of 13.2 all along the terminals. I have 4/0 cables going from my lynx distributor to my inverter/charger along with the 400amp fuse. I have read the Victron Manual front to back. The problem is that when I power my system on (master switch), nothing happens. My DC power doesn't work, my battery monitor, solar charge controller, NOTHING powers on. The voltage drops at the battery terminals and ALL other connection points to 2.37 volts!! When I disconnect the inverter cables from the lynx, everything works and voltage is consistent with the battery 13.2V... I have DC power and my solar and everything works beautifully (which is a relief since it's a new setup). But I'm beyond frustrated with the inverter charger.. I have tested the cables and I've even made new ones and swapped them out because my first thought was faulty crimps. I've tried everything. I cannot find an answer after days of "google" research in addition to the manual. Now I'm beginning to think there's something wrong with the inverter? It's brand new and has not powered on.. the lights won't flicker or anything. I have a shore power plug wired to it with nothing plugged and a breaker box with the main breaker turned off. I have thought about trying to plug into shore power, but I'm nervous about doing that. PLEASE can someone help me figure out what's going on, it's driving me crazy.


There's a picture of my system attached but note that I've added a second battery since that photo was taken thinking that my battery bank could be the issue. I'm wondering if it has something to do with the BMS, perhaps my batteries aren't charged enough to power the load? How much power does the Multiplus require to turn on? I am getting 13.2V at the terminals though indicating a 70% or so SOC.. but the batteries weren't "resting" for long when I checked that voltage with my multimeter. My SOC on my Victron shunt isn't accurate yet since I just set up my system and haven't had a full charge yet. But I would think that the Victron would still turn on?? I'm going to charge the batteries fully tomorrow to see if that works, but I doubt it at this point.


Here are some specs of my solar electrical system in my camper van:


Victron Multiplus 12V 3000 Multiplus inverter/charger


2x206AH SOK lithium batteries


2x Victron lynx distributor (bus bar system)


1 Victron Orion 30amp DC-DC charger


600 Watts of solar panels


60 MPPT Renogy Solar Charge Controller

Victron Smart Shunt Battery Monitor/other communications devices

tempImageZKruTi.jpg
 
Where on the Lynx are you connecting the MultiPlus? They should go on the left-most terminals (closest to where the battery cables connect to the Lynx).

Are you sure all of the connections are properly tightened?

Have you tried disconnecting all of the AC wires from the MultiPlus and just connecting the DC wires to the Lynx? You should at least get the MultiPlus to power up. Check the DIP switches on the MultiPlus.

If needed, try disconnecting everything except the battery, shunt, main switch, and the inverter. Isolate the issue one piece at a time.
 
Yes, left terminals closest to the batteries. I have inspected the connections so many times, disconnected, connected, made new cables, etc. I wish it were that easy though.

But I think that is a great idea, and that's what I will start with tomorrow. I really didn't want to disconnect the AC wires because the 10AWG wires were a huge PAI to get into the multiples. But, you're right the problem needs to be isolated further. I will let you know what happens when I do that tomorrow. I may even try the shore power tomorrow to turn it on.

I haven't thought of the DIP switches bc I have both the computer dongle and the bluetooth one to configure the settings (and yes I unplugged those too with no luck). But I'll doublecheck that the DIP switches are off... be really great if that's what the cause was. But seems like even if one got switched on somehow the inverter would still power on?

Ugh. Will keep you updated. Thank you for the help!
 
Did you precharge your capacitors? It sounds like your bms is sensing a short circuit and shutting down. Could actually be a short, but more likely the current inrush to the inverter to charge the capacitors is setting it off. .It will reset itself after a certain amount of time, but will just keep repeating as long as any dc loads exist. Ideally, you want to precharge them via wire w resistor. A work around hack is to plug the inverter into shore power and turn the charger on and it basically produces dc power via the charger to charge its own capacitors and then you can turn on the battery switch w no drama. This is all just a guess, but my best guess. Really common and you won’t find anything in the manual about it. Only an issue w lithium batteries and you can destroy your bms and switches if you repeatedly don’t precharge a cold inverter
 
1) OP: My DC power doesn't work, my battery monitor, solar charge controller, NOTHING powers on. The voltage drops at the battery terminals and ALL other connection points to 2.37 volts!! When I disconnect the inverter cables from the lynx, everything works and voltage is consistent with the battery 13.2V...
What other loads you have connected when you see the 13.20V without the Victron inverter connected?
2) I see the Black and Red wires from the + and - terminals of the inverter then the other ends of the wires go down to the bottom of the picture some where, where do they go to?

It does sound like the BMS went into shutdown mode when the inverter is connected without using pre-charge resistor to charge up the capacitor bank in the inverter first.
 
Hi all. I am having trouble with my Victron Inverter/Charger in my new electrical setup. My battery bank is showing a voltage of 13.2 all along the terminals. I have 4/0 cables going from my lynx distributor to my inverter/charger along with the 400amp fuse. I have read the Victron Manual front to back.

Is it grounded? I think its the first page in the manual

The problem is that when I power my system on (master switch), nothing happens. My DC power doesn't work, my battery monitor, solar charge controller, NOTHING powers on.

My first experience with Victron, I bought a Phoenix 375VA was exactly this. It was Dead On Arrival -- DOA and I had to return it. Second one just worked.
 
Wow I think you are both right about pre-charging with the resistor... I honestly did not even know this existed and it seems pretty important :confused:. I just watched Will's video on it:

Know where I can buy one at a common store tomorrow morning? I can order one but rather get this over with so I can move on lol.

Sorry about the photo, I attached another that shows the setup more completely. Those two big wires coming from the inverter are disconnected bc that's the only way the other DC loads are powered right now. And the others go to the distribution panel. Currently (pun intended), the only DC loads running are the lights, diesel heater, and CO2 detector, which is minimal. But I've tested the other stuff (max air fan, toilet fan, water pump, etc. and it all works). And in case you see, there's also another cable just hanging out that goes to a 12VDC Air conditioner but I don't have the hoses for it connected yet to test that out.
 

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Is it grounded? I think its the first page in the manual



My first experience with Victron, I bought a Phoenix 375VA was exactly this. It was Dead On Arrival -- DOA and I had to return it. Second one just worked.
I have the lynx grounded to the van body with 4/0 and the equipment grounds on the multiplus grounded to the middle of the lynx.
If anyone is wondering I used explorist.life diagram and video along with wills videos/book, and faroutride's guides as well. I am so grateful for everyone providing free content and all of your help!
I am new at all this and building a system that is large and a bit over my head, but I am thrilled with it coming together, it's just the inverter is the last piece of the puzzle. I am really trying to eliminate user error (as it's the most likely cause for a newb like me) before I blame the inverter... biggest fear is that it really is DOA.
 
OP: Currently (pun intended), the only DC loads running are the lights, diesel heater, and CO2 detector, which is minimal. But I've tested the other stuff (max air fan, toilet fan, water pump, etc. and it all works).
If the BMS is in shutdown mode I do not expect it to be able to supply the current to run all those loads right now, especially the water pump.
So if the inverter on/off switch is in the OFF position and then you connect the RED/BLACK wires of the inverter back in place, do you still see Voltage drop?

Turn the inverter on/ff switch to off first, if you do not have resistor (25 ~ 50 Ohms), you can use 75 ~100W (cold resistance of 100W lamp will be about 15 Ohms or so, you can check it with your Ohm meter) 120V incandescent lamp instead.
 
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A 12 volt incandescent light bulb will probably work.
Don't have one of those on hand either. There's an auto electric store near me that I've been going to for my ring lugs, they should have resistors? It seems I'll need to do this every time I power off the main switch so I should probably just get one.
 
Turn the inverter on/ff switch to off first, if you do not have resistor (25 ~ 50 Ohms), you can use 75 ~100W (cold resistance of 100W lamp will be about 15 Ohms or so, you can check it with your Ohm meter) 120V incandescent lamp instead.
Right now you may have to wake up the BMS first by try charging the battery.
Well might have one of those around. My BMS only seems to trigger when I connect the inverter and turn the main switch on. It's working now to power my lights and charges okay with solar (when the suns out) and the Orion so seems awake lol
 
Most auto parts stores sell LED load resistors that help LED blinkers work. They are in the LED light section and are just the right size for this. 6 ohm 25W.
 
Or just regular H7 halogen bulb will work just as fine.

Even a simple 60-100W incandescent regular bulb will work, just wire it in series to precharge. Value doesn't really matter that much, as long as it's a few ohms or more.
 
Update:
I went to the local auto electric store and picked up a little resistor. A 10ohm 25W guy. Held it in parallel for a few seconds and....
IT LIVES!!! Thank you everyone for your help, you have saved my system and my sanity.
 

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Update:
I went to the local auto electric store and picked up a little resistor. A 10ohm 25W guy. Held it in parallel for a few seconds and....
IT LIVES!!! Thank you everyone for your help, you have saved my system and my sanity.
You will need to do this every time you power on the system. I installed a simple push button to apply the resistor across the batt + to the inverter + and then I switch the system on.
 
You will need to do this every time you power on the system. I installed a simple push button to apply the resistor across the batt + to the inverter + and then I switch the system on.

LOL.. I just told him that over on the Victron site. Great minds?

Did you do a write up? I remember one somewhat recently.

Edit:

It was @MrM1

 
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