Hi All!
Please review and comment on this second revision of my first ever design. Greatly appreciated!
Thanks to @Short_Shot, @eXodus , @Zwy , and @HRTKD for valuable feedback on the first revision
Background:
We have a Lance 2185 travel trailer that I want to upgrade from FLA to LFP.
Initially I was going to do a full solar plus hybrid inverter/charger build for our trailer. Then we bought a 2021 F150 Powerboost hybrid with the 7.2kw Pro Power on Board feature that can provide 120V 30A service for the trailer wherever we go! In a completely separate project I am running the 120V 30A from truck to the trailer such that it can be used while we are towing. ? Thus, the refrigerator can run on AC (vs propane) and our batteries can be charging - all while going down the road.
Note: When parked, the truck uses the hybrid battery to drive the Pro Power inverter most of the time. The engine runs for about 2 minutes to recharge the hybrid battery as needed. We no longer need the noisy portable generator.
Goals:
For the times we are at an RV part we will just plug into park power. However most of the time we dry camp/boondock and on on 12V. In this case our batteries should be charged (using 120V from the truck) upon arrival. If after few days the batteries need a charge, or we want to run the air conditioner, microwave or blow dryer, we will simply connect to the truck. So you will notice there is no inverter in the design.
Also, if we are boondocking at a site for several days and going of hiking/exploring during the daytime we can set up the portable panel to recover some power while are out and about. At some point I may mount panels on the trailer roof, but for now I'll just keep it simple.
I've not yet diagramed for PV input. I am hoping for more feedback before I go any deeper into this.
Other:
Using the Energy Audit spreadsheet I have determined a rainy-stuck-in-the-trailer-all-day scenario would come in at 104 Amp Hours (DC). If I'm thinking correctly, that means we should be able to go two days (without solar or running the truck). Right? Also, seeing 104 Ah would be the maximum demand (remember, no inverter) how should I size the primary fuse that belongs within 7" of the battery bank?
Note the distance from the existing AC & DC panel at mid-trailer back to the rear closet where the LFP batteries will be is going to be 10-12 FT (depending on how the exact wire routing works out). About 3 FT of that will be running through a channel right next to existing 120V 10/2 Romex. I'm thinking 4 AWG for the run from the panel back to the batteries. Does that seem OK? Also, can I use this same 4 AWG wire for the battery & charger connections within the rear closet?
Leaning strongly towards the KISAE AC1260 charger - it seems good, and I can exchange the KISAE DMT1250 DC-DC I shouldn't have bought. I looked a several Victrons, yet it seems their under $750 AC powered 12V DC chargers max out at 30 Amps.
Also strongly leaning towards the Victron BMV-712.
Feedback, thoughts and help regarding the diagram, equipment, and safety would really be appreciated (especially wire sizing, fuses, breakers, etc.) Please spare me from bonehead mistakes! Any thoughts or feedback you have on the overall project would also be appreciated. Please let me know if you think it's just a bad approach, or I'm making things harder than needed!
Initial Diagram (NOT drawn to scale):
Thanks for the help!
-Eric
Please review and comment on this second revision of my first ever design. Greatly appreciated!
Thanks to @Short_Shot, @eXodus , @Zwy , and @HRTKD for valuable feedback on the first revision
Background:
We have a Lance 2185 travel trailer that I want to upgrade from FLA to LFP.
Initially I was going to do a full solar plus hybrid inverter/charger build for our trailer. Then we bought a 2021 F150 Powerboost hybrid with the 7.2kw Pro Power on Board feature that can provide 120V 30A service for the trailer wherever we go! In a completely separate project I am running the 120V 30A from truck to the trailer such that it can be used while we are towing. ? Thus, the refrigerator can run on AC (vs propane) and our batteries can be charging - all while going down the road.
Note: When parked, the truck uses the hybrid battery to drive the Pro Power inverter most of the time. The engine runs for about 2 minutes to recharge the hybrid battery as needed. We no longer need the noisy portable generator.
Goals:
- Keep things safe
- Keep things simple and easy to install
- Move the battery position to a closet at the back of the trailer (the soon to be gone FLAs are outside on the trailer tongue)
- Allow use of 1 or 2 portable solar panels
- 2 - Lion Energy UT1300 105Ah, 1344Wh, 150A LFP Batteries
- 1 - Lion Energy 100W12 V Foldable Solar Panel
- TEMCo Dieless Indent Lug Crimper, Klein Wire Stripper, etc.
- Quality Lugs, Heat Shrink, etc.
- A bunch of other things I will be returning!
For the times we are at an RV part we will just plug into park power. However most of the time we dry camp/boondock and on on 12V. In this case our batteries should be charged (using 120V from the truck) upon arrival. If after few days the batteries need a charge, or we want to run the air conditioner, microwave or blow dryer, we will simply connect to the truck. So you will notice there is no inverter in the design.
Also, if we are boondocking at a site for several days and going of hiking/exploring during the daytime we can set up the portable panel to recover some power while are out and about. At some point I may mount panels on the trailer roof, but for now I'll just keep it simple.
I've not yet diagramed for PV input. I am hoping for more feedback before I go any deeper into this.
Other:
Using the Energy Audit spreadsheet I have determined a rainy-stuck-in-the-trailer-all-day scenario would come in at 104 Amp Hours (DC). If I'm thinking correctly, that means we should be able to go two days (without solar or running the truck). Right? Also, seeing 104 Ah would be the maximum demand (remember, no inverter) how should I size the primary fuse that belongs within 7" of the battery bank?
Note the distance from the existing AC & DC panel at mid-trailer back to the rear closet where the LFP batteries will be is going to be 10-12 FT (depending on how the exact wire routing works out). About 3 FT of that will be running through a channel right next to existing 120V 10/2 Romex. I'm thinking 4 AWG for the run from the panel back to the batteries. Does that seem OK? Also, can I use this same 4 AWG wire for the battery & charger connections within the rear closet?
Leaning strongly towards the KISAE AC1260 charger - it seems good, and I can exchange the KISAE DMT1250 DC-DC I shouldn't have bought. I looked a several Victrons, yet it seems their under $750 AC powered 12V DC chargers max out at 30 Amps.
Also strongly leaning towards the Victron BMV-712.
Feedback, thoughts and help regarding the diagram, equipment, and safety would really be appreciated (especially wire sizing, fuses, breakers, etc.) Please spare me from bonehead mistakes! Any thoughts or feedback you have on the overall project would also be appreciated. Please let me know if you think it's just a bad approach, or I'm making things harder than needed!
Initial Diagram (NOT drawn to scale):
Thanks for the help!
-Eric