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diy solar

Please tell me what I'm doing wrong...

PaulCree

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Mar 26, 2021
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Putting together my first solar system and looking for feedback on the last purchases. Any feedback very much appreciated. Looking to put together a basic 24v 400w system for an off grid rv running a small fridge, a laptop and the kettle.

So far I have bought:

Renogy Rover 30 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller Battery Regulator

2 x
ECO-WORTHY 195 Watt Monocrystalline Solar Panel

2x agm deep cycle 100ah crappy tire batteries

trying to put together a basic 24v 400w system based upon


I was going to buy:

25ft of 10awg to connect the pv to the controller (best sun spot is away from the rv) Is that the right size???

WZRELB 1500W 24V Dc to 120V AC Pure Sine Wave Solar Inverter

and some 2awg wire to connect the batteries and the components (correct size?)

Baomain ANL-200A Electrical Protection ANL Fuse 200 Amp with Fuse Holder

Erayco 50 Amp Circuit Breaker

KKmoon 6 Terminal 130A/150A BusBar Block & Cover

I was going to put the 2 pv panels in series and also the 2 100ah batteries in series to create the 24v system.

Please tell me what I am doing wrong

Thanks in advance for any help :)
 
What you should have done first is actually determined the wattage of your loads to determine what is needed to power them. When you say things like refrigerator and kettle, my first thought is that these are realtively large loads for a small system and most likely not give you good performance.

I assume these panels will be mounted flat on the roof of the RV? If that's the case, assume you won't get more than 60% output out of them except at noon on the summer solstice.

So, large loads, smallish ineffective panels, and small cheap batteries. Not looking good.
 
WZRELB 1500W 24V Dc to 120V AC Pure Sine Wave Solar Inverter
My tea kettle uses ~1490 watts.
A discount inverter may or may not handle this.
Even if it doesn't fall over you will be running a stress test for each cup of coffee.

and some 2awg wire to connect the batteries and the components (correct size?)
1500 ac watts / .85 conversion factor / 24 volts low cutoff = ~74 dc amps.
~74 dc amps / .8 fuse headroom = 91 fuse amps
2 awg is fine.
Baomain ANL-200A Electrical Protection ANL Fuse 200 Amp with Fuse Holder
Fuse is cheap and scary
Littelfuse or Eaton/Bussmann are the only ones I would trust.
Erayco 50 Amp Circuit Breaker
Circuit breaker is scary see above

KKmoon 6 Terminal 130A/150A BusBar Block & Cover

You have a 200 amp fuse and a busbar rated for 150 amps which is out of spec.
I was going to put the 2 pv panels in series and also the 2 100ah batteries in series to create the 24v system.
You only have 100ah@24volts agm will sag massively under a load of 75 amps.
Peukert effect will be a pita.
 
Last edited:
Thank you both for the feedback. I will upgrade the inverter to 2000w, change the busbar block to 200amps and upgrade the other components you mentioned. Not able to get some of the brands here in Canada, so will look for better quality ones available here. Also, the fridge is a small apt fridge I am looking to upgrade to a duel propane/electric one, and the panels will be mounted on a tracking stand away from the rv. Should I double my amp hours?
 
Thank you both for the feedback. I will upgrade the inverter to 2000w, change the busbar block to 200amps and upgrade the other components you mentioned.
Actually just decrease the fuse size to 150 amps
Not able to get some of the brands here in Canada, so will look for better quality ones available here.
I'm in Canada and I use this company https://www.waytekwire.com/
Wish there was a similar Canadian option.

Also, the fridge is a small apt fridge I am looking to upgrade to a duel propane/electric one, and the panels will be mounted on a tracking stand away from the rv.
I've heard the combo propane electric fridges are really inefficient on electricity.
Should I double my amp hours?
Yes.
 
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