Pls help me with system design

[Zwy]

hi joey , yes im very confused about this and ive watched a lot of videos. the thing is everyone is adding a multiplus and rerouted the ac/dc loads through the multi plus , im keeping my stock ac / dc panel so i need a little help on this last piece. in other words - i dotn know what do wo with the panel ,

all im trying to do is increase solar capacity , add the dc-dc charger , fuse the system properly , and clean up the install a bit , it was thrown together by the rv dealer who sold the rv to the first owner

This is how I did mine, I removed all the 12v circuits from the ac to dc converter and installed a separate fuse panel. There were only 4 fuses in the converter and this split the loads more. Behind the fuse panel is a 24v to 12v buck converter as my battery bank is 24v. I did see your photo of your current dc distribution panel in the converter, you could remove and tape off the current positive cable that supplies power from the ac to dc converter and install a cable to your solar system.

The switch above the fuse panel is to power off the ac to dc converter. I use the ac to dc converter to power the power jacks only, that is all it is used for.

In your diagram, I don't see a transfer switch. You will need one, even if you don't think you will ever hookup to shore power, just to be safe and prevent a loop.

 

[John Frum]

Here is rev-001 of your drawing

 

[moonlitsouls]

Here is rev-001 of your drawing

Morning Joey thank you again for the help I really appreciate it. The only thing , it’s going to be a bitch to order that 7 terminal bus bar , i can buy everything else I’m missing on Amazon but we need to get the connection points on each busbar to 4 so I can utilize the 250a busbars I have

I imagine I can move the 1amp line for the battery monitor to the batteries positive terminal ?

Can we move something else? Sorry I didn’t realize it would be hard to find the bigger busbar on Amazon, I don’t like ordering from anyone else it takes a week to arrive and im trying to install Monday or Tuesday

 

[John Frum]

Morning Joey thank you again for the help I really appreciate it. The only thing , it’s going to be a bitch to order that 7 terminal bus bar , i can buy everything else I’m missing on Amazon but we need to get the connection points on each busbar to 4 so I can utilize the 250a busbars I have

I imagine I can move the 1amp line for the battery monitor to the batteries positive terminal ?

Can we move something else? Sorry I didn’t realize it would be hard to find the bigger busbar on Amazon, I don’t like ordering from anyone else it takes a week to arrive and im trying to install Monday or Tuesday

I doubt you will find anything even roughly equivalent on amazon.
Waytek is a reputable outfit.

 

[moonlitsouls]

I doubt you will find anything even roughly equivalent on amazon.
Waytek is a reputable outfit.

Btw, I work in the airline industry, let me know if you need to fly anywhere anytime soon

 

[John Frum]

I imagine I can move the 1amp line for the battery monitor to the batteries positive terminal ?

Actually that is a good idea.
I would not move anything else though.

 

[moonlitsouls]

Actually that is a good idea.
I would not move anything else though.

What about combining one other wire with another to share a post

I already have a 4 post busbar

 

[John Frum]

What about combining one other wire with another to share a post

I already have a 4 post busbar

If you must...
Put the inverter and the battery on the same lug.
Battery on the bottom and inverter on the top.
Both wires must be fused independently.

 

[John Frum]

rev-002

 

[John Frum]

Since you are going with un-fused busbars put an anl fuse as close to the positive battery terminal as possible and take the shunt feed off the system side of that fuse.

The inverter and all the other main circuits are fused as close to the busbar as possible.
The dc2dc charger circuit should be fused as close as possible to the starter battery.

 

[moonlitsouls]

rev-002
View attachment 68292

MANY THANKS , YOU WENT ABOVE AND BEYOND AND ITS MUCH APPRECIATED JOEY

 

[moonlitsouls]

Since you are going with un-fused busbars put an anl fuse as close to the positive battery terminal as possible and take the shunt feed off the system side of that fuse.

this part confused me a bit , the rest of what you said made sense

 

[John Frum]

this part confused me a bit , the rest of what you said made sense

Is it the un-fused busbars bit or the component order bit?

 

[moonlitsouls]

Is it the un-fused busbars bit or the component order bit?

the shunt feed part , and which anl fuse are you talking about?

these are the busbars i got btw

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THLX93D?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

 

[John Frum]

the shunt feed part , and which anl fuse are you talking about?

See rev-003 in below, I think that will clear it up.

these are the busbars i got btw

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THLX93D?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

 

[moonlitsouls]

See rev-003 in below, I think that will clear it up.


View attachment 68308

Hi Joey I wanted to show you this

Currently attached to the battery I have three loads

One is dc power that runs to the dc circuit board on the main distribution panel

One is the inverter

And I believe the last is the main power

I think we assumed the house power (shore power and generator) was being fed directly to the ac panel, but I believe it’s actually connected to the battery directly because the wire feeds from the left side of the camper where the shore power connection is

I can either connect these lines to the bus bars or I can continue to run them directly to the batter , thoughts ?

 

[moonlitsouls]

 

[John Frum]

@moonlitsouls you didn't answer any of my questions.

 

[John Frum]

Currently attached to the battery I have three loads

One is dc power that runs to the dc circuit board on the main distribution panel

One is the inverter

And I believe the last is the main power

What is the "main power"?

I think we assumed the house power (shore power and generator) was being fed directly to the ac panel, but I believe it’s actually connected to the battery directly because the wire feeds from the left side of the camper where the shore power connection is

I can either connect these lines to the bus bars or I can continue to run them directly to the batter , thoughts ?

Connecting 120VAC ac power to a 12VDC battery would be a spectacularly bad idea.

 

[John Frum]

View attachment 68552

What is/was connected to all those cables?
Please describe all 4 endpoints.

 

[moonlitsouls]

What is/was connected to all those cables?
Please describe all 4 endpoints.

Morning Joey, it was actually the generator cables. Anyway I got it all sorted and I’m really happy. I spent two days working 10 hours a day mounting the new panels, wiring the dc-dc charger and reorganizing the system. I’m not completely done yet, still have a couple fuses to add but I’ll post pics soon. Thanks again!

 

[moonlitsouls]

Following up , everything working great . Question for anyone who can help

If i want to add a victron multiplus to this setup , would it just be a matter one additional cable from the busbars to the battery terminals on the victron?

i have my ac side figured out , just trying to get the dc side understood , thanks a lot

 

[12VoltInstalls]

I’m not going to jump in on the more knowledgeable folks already on this bus, but in my skimover read of this thread I’m not seeing where you upgraded your mod-sine inverter to a pure sine wave model.

I thought I’d suggest that - the Giandel 1200W model is only $200 and works well for the low-price-point inverters. And even though I knew better I ran a cheapo inverter early on and spent HUNDREDS of dollars more than a pure sine inverter would have cost me to begin with. I burnt a computer monitor and killed stuff surprisingly quickly cuz I was foolish. FWIW

 

[moonlitsouls]

I’m not going to jump in on the more knowledgeable folks already on this bus, but in my skimover read of this thread I’m not seeing where you upgraded your mod-sine inverter to a pure sine wave model.

I thought I’d suggest that - the Giandel 1200W model is only $200 and works well for the low-price-point inverters. And even though I knew better I ran a cheapo inverter early on and spent HUNDREDS of dollars more than a pure sine inverter would have cost me to begin with. I burnt a computer monitor and killed stuff surprisingly quickly cuz I was foolish. FWIW

Morning , I picked up a 3000w victron multiplus. Watched a ton of videos , got my question answered thanks.

 

[moonlitsouls]

I’m sure @smoothJoey will probably cry when he sees this , but this is a photo of the core of my system

That little plumbing cubbord Is directly on top of the plastic battery box with is build into the front of the camper which sits right behind the cabover , it was the only place close to the battery I have to work with the SCC. I wish I had space to pull all of this out and move to a nice mounting board and make it aesthetically pleasing but I don’t have a spot for it