diy solar

diy solar

Pls help me with system design

On the left side of the combined ac/dc distribution panel I can see there are many dc circuits.
I wonder if you are using any of them.
In order for you to use them they need to get power from somewhere.

They could be powered via the converter for from a battery.
Is there any voltage if you measure between pos(black) and gnd(white)?
currently there is two sets of wires being routed to the battery positive and negative of the dc circuits , one set is from the SCC , but im going to rereoute that back down to the battery. It was installed this way by the RV dealer because it was seemingly easier for them to avoid having to wire the extra few feet to the battery compartment

i think the other two positive and negative wires come from the battery itself , but im going to take it apart and figure it out
 
currently there is two sets of wires being routed to the battery positive and negative of the dc circuits , one set is from the SCC , but im going to rereoute that back down to the battery. It was installed this way by the RV dealer because it was seemingly easier for them to avoid having to wire the extra few feet to the battery compartment

i think the other two positive and negative wires come from the battery itself , but im going to take it apart and figure it out
I think what you are saying is the dc distribution panel is the aggregation point for your system.
The three system components I'm pretty sure you have are scc, batteries and inverter.
I believe the inverter is connected directly to the batteries.
I also think the dc distribution panel feeder wires are connected directly to the battery.
Finally it sounds like the system side of the scc is connected to the dc distribution panel.
Can you verify my assumptions?
 
I think what you are saying is the dc distribution panel is the aggregation point for your system.
The three system components I'm pretty sure you have are scc, batteries and inverter.
I believe the inverter is connected directly to the batteries.
I also think the dc distribution panel feeder wires are connected directly to the battery.
Finally it sounds like the system side of the scc is connected to the dc distribution panel.
Can you verify my assumptions?
yeah!!!! i think so !!!! and now im trying to add the dc-dc charger

and then just a few fuses to protect it all
 
yeah!!!! i think so !!!! and now im trying to add the dc-dc charger

and then just a few fuses to protect it all
Please do an orthodox system with high current busbars.
I can draw something for you but would not to get a bunch of requirements from you.
 
Please do an orthodox system with high current busbars.
I can draw something for you but would not to get a bunch of requirements from you.
i already got the busbars rated for 250amps

that sounds awesome joey i would greatly appreciate it
 
How far from the main system to the dc/distribution as the wire flies?
Closer is better if you have not yet decided where to put things.

Are you really going to use a 100 amp solar charge controller?

Are you really going to use a 60 amp renogy dc2dc charger?
Does your alternator have 60 amps of spare capacity?
How far between the alternator and the main system as the wire flies?

How many studs on the busbars?
 
How far from the main system to the dc/distribution as the wire flies?
Closer is better if you have not yet decided where to put things.
the battery is about 3-5 feet of wire from the main distro panel

Are you really going to use a 100 amp solar charge controller?
i have the victron mppt 100/50 , the panels will be wired in series based on the calculation below , i will be under the 100volts

voltages for each panel = 20.4v + 20.4v + 16.77v + 16.77v + 17v = 91.34v * (lowest amps = 9.45a) = 863w. This would be 863w/940w (max) = 91.8% of the max."

Are you really going to use a 60 amp renogy dc2dc charger?
Does your alternator have 60 amps of spare capacity?
How far between the alternator and the main system as the wire flies?
i already purchased the 60a , im using a 250a high output altn on the f350
itll be approx 20-25 from vehicle battery to dc charger , and then less than 5 feet from dc charger to battery , i purchased wire and fuses based on this diagram
1633809812035.png

How many studs on the busbars?
4 studs rated to 250 amps
 
the battery is about 3-5 feet of wire from the main distro panel


i have the victron mppt 100/50 , the panels will be wired in series based on the calculation below , i will be under the 100volts

voltages for each panel = 20.4v + 20.4v + 16.77v + 16.77v + 17v = 91.34v * (lowest amps = 9.45a) = 863w. This would be 863w/940w (max) = 91.8% of the max."


i already purchased the 60a , im using a 250a high output altn on the f350
itll be approx 20-25 from vehicle battery to dc charger , and then less than 5 feet from dc charger to battery , i purchased wire and fuses based on this diagram
View attachment 68204


4 studs rated to 250 amps
I'm going to draw it with the wire that I think is right.
Probably going to be different than what you have.
Maybe you can return or sell on the bits that don't match.
 
Since you have a smart bms you don't really need that victron battery monitor, is it there for a specific reason?

That bluesea remote battery switch is going to be stupid expensive.
Suggest we go with a breaker and and 5x 150 amp mrbf fuse unless you have a specific need for a remote control switch.


One of these for the positive busbar
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/45546/Littelfuse-0FHZ0007Z-FHZ-Series-ZCASE-Fuse-Holder-/
 
Since you have a smart bms you don't really need that victron battery monitor, is it there for a specific reason?

Just a secondary method to monitor and I’d like to have a wall mounted display

That bluesea remote battery switch is going to be stupid expensive.
Suggest we go with a breaker and and 5x 150 amp mrbf fuse unless you have a specific need for a remote control switch.
I got it for $30 on Amazon unlesss I bought the wrong one. I added it bc i saw everyone else had one and it seemed like it would make sense to have a safety cutoff switch to the positive battery


One of these for the positive busbar
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/45546/Littelfuse-0FHZ0007Z-FHZ-Series-ZCASE-Fuse-Holder-/
I’ll take a look at these , thanks Joey


As far as the design, I’m open to whatever is most efficient, cost effective and necessary to have
 
Yes I have it
What is the continuous rating in watts for the generator?
Does your rig also have a shore power inlet?
If yes it probably has an automatic transfer switch as well.
The box will have 3 wires connected to it.
1. in from generator
2. in from shore power inlet
3. out to ac distribution panel

Please confirm my assumption.
 
What is the continuous rating in watts for the generator?
Does your rig also have a shore power inlet?
If yes it probably has an automatic transfer switch as well.
The box will have 3 wires connected to it.
1. in from generator
It’s the Onan LP 2500 , 2500 watts
2. in from shore power inlet
3. out to ac distribution panel

Please confirm my assumption.
I do have a 30amp shore power inlet , and I do have a transfer switch near the generator

Here a couple pics
 

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Can you get me a clear, bright picture of transfer switch showing the wires in and out.
Please and thanks.
 
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