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portable van house battery

bigredball90

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Feb 9, 2020
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I finally have some batteries for my van/portable battery box build, and I could use some help making sure Im not missing anything. Im following wills 400 watt with alternator charging plan. I dont plan on using solar right now though, I was thinking about using a 24v 30amp power supply to simulate solar panels like he does in the youtube videos and use it as a shore charger. Ill be camping in forests for the most part and solar wont do much for me. It will be primarily for my van but will also be used around the house for power outages or working away from the house. Im using the topband navitas 25ah lifepo4 prismatic cells from BH. Do these cells require compression? If so how much? Can I mount them horizontally or only vertical? If Im using one bms I should run the batteries as 8p4s or 4s8p? How does the renogy dcdc mppt know if its pulling to much from the alternator? I believe my van only has an 80 amp alt, and cant seem to find the duty cycle for it. I dont want to burn it out if I can help it. The renogy also has an optional voltage sensor, which battery does it go on I cant seem to find a specific one in the spec sheet. I plan on wiring it so I can "plug it into the van" when Im camping. So using anderson connectors or something similiar to connect the box the 12v fuse block and dcdc charger.
Heres my list of parts so far, I think I have everything covered minus some outlets. I only have the batteries and the 12v fuse block so everything else is flexible.
x32 25ah batteries
1/16 x 3/4" copper for bus bars
12v fuse block
Electrodacus bms
x2 250amp shunt
renogy dcdc mppt 50a
power supply 24v 25a
2000w inverter (for house stuff)
1/0 awg and 4 awg wire
250 amp bus bar
2 cooling fans with temp sensor
65, 75, and 250 amp breakers
 
I think charging the battery via shore power through the mppt is not going to work, the couple of things ive found arent promising. Going to pick up a shore charger and possible a DCDC charger at some point.
If im making a 8p4s battery that would make it a 200ah pack I believe. The cells are rated for 1c at 25ah, I believe a 60amp charger should be safe right? Or do I need to keep it at 25 amps?
 
I have the Renogy DC DC 50 amp charger with MPPT.
I have seen the full 50 amps from the alternator with nothing attached to the solar side. It’s designed to split it so max 25 amps from alternator and max 25 amps from solar when both are connected.
Oz-photons posted on the Renogy DC DC with MPPT thread that the Renogy DC home app allows you to adjust the max charging current.
Would need to purchase the Renogy BT-2 Bluetooth module to use it.
 
What electrodacus do you have? I have a renogy dc-dc charger that is hooked up to the alternator and controlled with extIO4. I know you could get a simple grif charger with remote on/off and connect to the ext IO4.
 
What electrodacus do you have? I have a renogy dc-dc charger that is hooked up to the alternator and controlled with extIO4. I know you could get a simple grif charger with remote on/off and connect to the ext IO4.
Dacian suggest this on the sbms0 manual: RSP-750-15 grid charger
 
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Looks like the Electrodacus SBMS0 bms prevents any overcharging and other error conditions that might damage the cells. Has high/low battery temperature cut off, over current prevention, low / high voltage cut off.

My motorhome came supplied with a dual power supply/charger for 12 volts. The charger side is max 6 amps configured for lead acid (can’t adjust for type) so it is left “as is” attached to the house battery bus bar and powered when on EHU.
The batteries are a pair of Renogy 100Ah Smart Lithium in a parallel so leave the batteries own BMS to look after themselves.
The Renogy DC DC 50 amp charger with MPPT is left permanently attached to the house battery bus bar and the motorhome vehicle battery/alternator. Again, leaving the Renogy device to look after charging as it will top up the vehicle battery if the house batteries are at capacity.
 
I ordered the SBMS0 with wifi. I ordered a progessive dynamics 60 amp charger yesterday to. I think for now ill just plug it in at home and will pick up a dcdc mppt when Im ready for some longer trips. Ill have about 2.5kw to play with so I should be fine on weekend long trips. I wish the 3 in 1 chargers were cheaper that would be ideal but, maybe ill pick one up in the future when theyve come down in price. Currently trying to decide if I need to compress the cells or just strap them together. Even using a 2000w inverter im still only pulling 1c if that.
 
Dacian suggest this on the sbms0 manual: RSP-750-15 grid charger
I went back and reread the manual and realized that the RSP would be a much better option. Didnt realize the progressive dynamics charger didnt have a remote on/off. Thanks for bringing it up!
 
I finally have some batteries for my van/portable battery box build, and I could use some help making sure Im not missing anything. Im following wills 400 watt with alternator charging plan. I dont plan on using solar right now though, I was thinking about using a 24v 30amp power supply to simulate solar panels like he does in the youtube videos and use it as a shore charger. Ill be camping in forests for the most part and solar wont do much for me. It will be primarily for my van but will also be used around the house for power outages or working away from the house. Im using the topband navitas 25ah lifepo4 prismatic cells from BH. Do these cells require compression? If so how much? Can I mount them horizontally or only vertical? If Im using one bms I should run the batteries as 8p4s or 4s8p? How does the renogy dcdc mppt know if its pulling to much from the alternator? I believe my van only has an 80 amp alt, and cant seem to find the duty cycle for it. I dont want to burn it out if I can help it. The renogy also has an optional voltage sensor, which battery does it go on I cant seem to find a specific one in the spec sheet. I plan on wiring it so I can "plug it into the van" when Im camping. So using anderson connectors or something similiar to connect the box the 12v fuse block and dcdc charger.
Heres my list of parts so far, I think I have everything covered minus some outlets. I only have the batteries and the 12v fuse block so everything else is flexible.
x32 25ah batteries
1/16 x 3/4" copper for bus bars
12v fuse block
Electrodacus bms
x2 250amp shunt
renogy dcdc mppt 50a
power supply 24v 25a
2000w inverter (for house stuff)
1/0 awg and 4 awg wire
250 amp bus bar
2 cooling fans with temp sensor
65, 75, and 250 amp breakers
My configuration is similar and might be of interest.
50ah battery and 20 amp b2b plus a 30 amp 12volt power supply.
I'm a traveler, not a camper so the 20 amp b2b keeps the battery charged. My primary load is the refrigerator - I can do two nights without charging. The 30 amp supply is used for the rare, extended stays with hookups.
 
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