diy solar

diy solar

Potential charging issue

ForkOff58

New Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2021
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Hi all

I'll start by listing my system.

Ive got 6x 100w 12v solar array

Epever 2210AN 20a MPPT

4x 140ah AGM (3 years old)

Split load charge relay installed.

Installed on a Ford MK6 Transit Camper conversion. Ive removed the inverter. Currently not pulling any load

Having 600w going to the MPPT @ 12v should be a overload but im not seeing more than 10a coming from the array at the most going to the batteries. Even when i had a 1500w heater pulling current. During the day and even with the engine running as well the bank is at full ( bearing in mind if disconnected the inverter so absolutely NO load. Come night full my banks dropping to 60-70 %

Ive disconnected the batteries and bench charged then and within seconds thier reading full.

I did notice today the array said 19v but the bank only said 13.1v

Apologies for the newbie post but im stuck on where to start

Ill attach some info pics from epever software IMG_20210819_193652.jpg
 

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Ive got 6x 100w 12v solar array
What is the Voc of each panel?
Is there any reason that you connected all the panels in parallel?
What is the input voltage range of your SCC? Is there a specific (optimal) MPPT range for your SCC?

I suspect that with an MPPT SCC, you'd be better off with a combination of series and parallel for your array. This mostly depends upon what your SCC is optimized for, thus the first questions to you.
 
The EP 2210 is a 20 amp unit rated for 280 watts of solar, whilst technically it should manage being 'over paneled there is a chance it has been damaged in some way.
The solar panels need to be tested where the cables connect to controller but disconnected from the controller. If its possible to test each panel on its own it would be an advantage. With some sun, each panel alone should have an open circuit voltage of around 22 volts, and a short circuit current of up to 5 amps depending on solar conditions. With all the panels in parallel the volts should be the same. But the short circuit current could be up to 30 amps.
There may be a panel fault or faulty connection.

The batteries at 3 years old maybe at end of life, they could still read over 13 volts but have a small capacity. AGM batteries are not suitable for a camper conversion where the charge source is less than 20% of battery capacity, thats around 100 amps for your pack. I suggest you load test each battery separately. You may find one or more battery is in poor condition and pulling the rest down.

Its not clear that the issues you are having have occurred in a system the previously functioned well or you have 'acquired' a setup that is not performing.

You need to establish where the fault exists. I would start as suggested by testing each component separately, then rebuild the systen bit by bit, for example, one panel to the controller to one battery.

In my view the issue has developed due to undercharged batteries, ( split charge will never fully charge an AGM battery), lack of a stronger charge current and an overlarge pack for the existing recharge system. Where an AGM battery is not fully charged its capacity will gradually 'walk down' in a non reversable manner.

I hope I am wrong and it's a simple issue like a faulty connector.

Mike
 
Originally i had the array in a series parallel for 24
The EP 2210 is a 20 amp unit rated for 280 watts of solar, whilst technically it should manage being 'over paneled there is a chance it has been damaged in some way.
The solar panels need to be tested where the cables connect to controller but disconnected from the controller. If its possible to test each panel on its own it would be an advantage. With some sun, each panel alone should have an open circuit voltage of around 22 volts, and a short circuit current of up to 5 amps depending on solar conditions. With all the panels in parallel the volts should be the same. But the short circuit current could be up to 30 amps.
There may be a panel fault or faulty connection.

The batteries at 3 years old maybe at end of life, they could still read over 13 volts but have a small capacity. AGM batteries are not suitable for a camper conversion where the charge source is less than 20% of battery capacity, thats around 100 amps for your pack. I suggest you load test each battery separately. You may find one or more battery is in poor condition and pulling the rest down.

Its not clear that the issues you are having have occurred in a system the previously functioned well or you have 'acquired' a setup that is not performing.

You need to establish where the fault exists. I would start as suggested by testing each component separately, then rebuild the systen bit by bit, for example, one panel to the controller to one battery.

In my view the issue has developed due to undercharged batteries, ( split charge will never fully charge an AGM battery), lack of a stronger charge current and an overlarge pack for the existing recharge system. Where an AGM battery is not fully charged its capacity will gradually 'walk down' in a non reversable manner.

I hope I am wrong and it's a simple issue like a faulty connector.

Mike
Thanks mike.. Greatly appreciated.

Ive got a day of on monday and by the sounds of it plenty to do. I do a bit of process of elimination so let the games begin. I'll keep you posted. Once again thanks for the advice
 
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