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Pre-charging with resistor.

I just realized. Wouldn’t it just make more sense to skip the inverter and directly power the machine using a transformer or something? Is this feasible?

Yes something like an...... Inverter .... Your pitching machine draws 1.3 times on 12vdc as it does on 120v... soooo 10 amps would be 130A, If 5 amps it would draw 65 amps at 12v.....

If you are using a lead acid which includes AGM and GEL you can only use 1/2 of the rated ah specified on the battery so a 50ah AGM you would get 25ah usable
 
Yes something like an...... Inverter .... Your pitching machine draws 1.3 times on 12vdc as it does on 120v... soooo 10 amps would be 130A, If 5 amps it would draw 65 amps at 12v.....

If you are using a lead acid which includes AGM and GEL you can only use 1/2 of the rated ah specified on the battery so a 50ah AGM you would get 25ah usable
We should probably explain that transformers only work on alternating current.
 
Wait a sec, OP is making a pitching machine? I missed that detail. OP should use DC brushless motors instead and go right from DC. If you have enough momentum in the drive wheels you don't need a very strong motor and you can gear it down to use less power in the motors.
 
Wait a sec, OP is making a pitching machine? I missed that detail. OP should use DC brushless motors instead and go right from DC. If you have enough momentum in the drive wheels you don't need a very strong motor and you can gear it down to use less power in the motors.
no op isn't... 120v standard machine
 
Hey guys, so I ended up getting 2AWG from batterycablesUSA since their extreme rated copper cables are rated for 210 amps.

In any case, here's the schematic. I bought all the parts in the diagram, so if I'm lucky and you guys give me the green light I'm going to connect it all LOL.

I also had a question, I have the voltmeter connected so that when I switch on the resistor line and the circuit breaker is disconnected it'll show me how the precharge is going. If the circuit breaker is off, is there still a possibility to spark when I connect the leads? I'm under the impression that an "off" circuit breaker means no circuit. So even if the negative terminal is still connected touching the positive terminal won't run current? Just making sure LOL Connecting wires to battery terminals has always sketched me out haha
 

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Whatever current flows in the 2 awg (red wire) comes back in the 6 awg (blue wire). So 6 awg needs to handle whatever continuous current.
6 awg, 90 degree C insulation, 105A (continuous) in free air. 105A x 12V = 1260W or about 10A at 120V

We like to make the full loop of wire all the same heavy gauge.
Sometimes insulation doesn't matter on the negative side (e.g. metal car body)

"Connecting wires to battery terminals has always sketched me out haha" - as it should, especially if FLA like a car battery due to hydrogen. Best to make the last connection away from the battery in that case. AGM, not much of an issue under most conditions.

While breaker is of no spark (unless precharge button is being pushed, and that would not be much current.)
.
 
Hey guys, so I ended up getting 2AWG from batterycablesUSA since their extreme rated copper cables are rated for 210 amps.

In any case, here's the schematic. I bought all the parts in the diagram, so if I'm lucky and you guys give me the green light I'm going to connect it all LOL.

I also had a question, I have the voltmeter connected so that when I switch on the resistor line and the circuit breaker is disconnected it'll show me how the precharge is going. If the circuit breaker is off, is there still a possibility to spark when I connect the leads? I'm under the impression that an "off" circuit breaker means no circuit. So even if the negative terminal is still connected touching the positive terminal won't run current? Just making sure LOL Connecting wires to battery terminals has always sketched me out haha
oh dangit sorry. the black wire is also 2 awg
 
Hey guys, so I ended up getting 2AWG from batterycablesUSA since their extreme rated copper cables are rated for 210 amps.

In any case, here's the schematic. I bought all the parts in the diagram, so if I'm lucky and you guys give me the green light I'm going to connect it all LOL.

I also had a question, I have the voltmeter connected so that when I switch on the resistor line and the circuit breaker is disconnected it'll show me how the precharge is going. If the circuit breaker is off, is there still a possibility to spark when I connect the leads? I'm under the impression that an "off" circuit breaker means no circuit. So even if the negative terminal is still connected touching the positive terminal won't run current? Just making sure LOL Connecting wires to battery terminals has always sketched me out haha
The way you have it drawn, hold down the precharge button, then turn on the breaker.
Personally I would put the resistor on the battery side of the switch.
 

It worked guys! Still have some tidying up to do in terms of wires and aesthetics, but it’s good to know everything is good. Had it run until the inverter activated low voltage shut off, but that was only after about 6 minutes, the voltmeter read 11.3 at that point, so I’m going to have to look at alternatives. 1 or 2 hours is more than enough so it’s the discharge rate that seems to be the problem

Would any of these work? Any recommendations?
 
Drawing shows 12V 20 Ah battery. That's 240 Wh, presumably lead-acid.
For long life it is suggested only drain 50%, 120 Wh. With 120V 10A load (if it really draws that much), 1200W
You might expect 1/10th hour or 6 minutes run time. Or longer, if voltage allowed to go lower.
But there is something called "Peukert" effect, that at high discharge rates the available amp hours from lead-acid is reduced.
At the very least it means resistance of battery causes voltage to drop too low, but I think there is a chemical effect.
Have you ever noticed that a car battery won't continue turn the engine over, but if left to sit 10 minutes it will? Something recovered.

This graph shows it:


Can't do much about discharge rate.
You need a higher capacity battery (preferably true deep cycle).
To boost 6 minutes to 60 or 120 you just need 10x or 20x as much battery (maybe a bit less, Peukert won't hurt you as much at 1.0C or 0.5C as at 10C.)
200 Ah or 400 Ah. That's gonna hurt the pocket book. 200 Ah at 12V of my favorite AGM is about $500.
Cheapest is going to be wet-cell FLA golf cart batteries, maybe $100 to $200 for a pair of 6V, but I prefer to avoid spillable.
Best performance, price/performance, and lifespan might be DIY LiFePO4, but that's still $600 for 280 Ah 12V (cells & BMS)

If you measure current draw you can better understand the capacity needed.
Measuring high DC current is more difficult/expensive, but you can use a clamp AC ammeter and calculate roughly the DC current.
 
Drawing shows 12V 20 Ah battery. That's 240 Wh, presumably lead-acid.
For long life it is suggested only drain 50%, 120 Wh. With 120V 10A load (if it really draws that much), 1200W
You might expect 1/10th hour or 6 minutes run time. Or longer, if voltage allowed to go lower.
But there is something called "Peukert" effect, that at high discharge rates the available amp hours from lead-acid is reduced.
At the very least it means resistance of battery causes voltage to drop too low, but I think there is a chemical effect.
Have you ever noticed that a car battery won't continue turn the engine over, but if left to sit 10 minutes it will? Something recovered.

This graph shows it:


Can't do much about discharge rate.
You need a higher capacity battery (preferably true deep cycle).
To boost 6 minutes to 60 or 120 you just need 10x or 20x as much battery (maybe a bit less, Peukert won't hurt you as much at 1.0C or 0.5C as at 10C.)
200 Ah or 400 Ah. That's gonna hurt the pocket book. 200 Ah at 12V of my favorite AGM is about $500.
Cheapest is going to be wet-cell FLA golf cart batteries, maybe $100 to $200 for a pair of 6V, but I prefer to avoid spillable.
Best performance, price/performance, and lifespan might be DIY LiFePO4, but that's still $600 for 280 Ah 12V (cells & BMS)

If you measure current draw you can better understand the capacity needed.
Measuring high DC current is more difficult/expensive, but you can use a clamp AC ammeter and calculate roughly the DC current.
Got it. I'm going to go ahead and and use my clamp multimeter to get the current while it's running. I should be able to separate one of the wires from the plug just long enough to have it go in between the clamp. Thank you for your help! I'm honestly so grateful.
 
Once you know what you need report back and folks will have more suggestions.

100Ah LiFePO4 commercial is around $500.

A DIY LiFePO4 is well within your capabilities for significant savings.

PS - the contraption you built looks perfect to keep those kids off my lawn!

A godsend to curmudgeons everywhere ?

 
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Once you know what you need report back and folks will have more suggestions.

100Ah LiFePO4 commercial is around $500.

A DIY LiFePO4 is well within your capabilities for significant savings.

PS - the contraption you built looks perfect to keep those kids off my lawn!

A godsend to curmudgeons everywhere ?

HAHA it really does look like a canon.

In any case, I finally got around to measuring the AC amps that the launcher was using and it peaked at 9.5 in a range from 8.7 - 9.5 amps

It was on for about 6 minutes before the inverter’s low voltage shut off kicked in

Fresh from being charged starting voltage from the onboard voltmeter was 13.1 and under load that reading drops to 12.0 and shuts off at 9.98. Currently, the voltmeter reads 12 volts flat.

If I bought a new ball launcher that has its own battery it comes out to around $500+. So far I’ve spent $295

If I bought a used ball launcher that has its own battery it comes out to around $600+. So far I’ve spent $295. So, I’m open to your guys’ advice for batteries haha
 
To account for inverter inefficiency lets round that up to 10 amps at 120v or 1200 watts.

How long do you want it to run for?
 
Ok, 1200w times .75 hours is 900W hours.

IIRC you have a 12v inverter so you’re looking for a 75 amp hour battery, assuming 100% DOD so 100Ah would give you some margin. That’s gonna cost $500 in LiFePO4 which will be light weight and last for many years.

I will guess the other units you are discussing don’t have LiFePO4 batteries at that price point but they will need replacing and may cost more in the long run.

Personally I don’t use lead acid so hopefully someone can offer a low cost alternative there with 75 amp hours of useable capacity.
 
This one is 104 Ah 12V, 600 cycles to 75% DOD. $325
The LiFePO4 will give more cycles per dollar. Question is how many cycles per year you will use.

 
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