diy solar

diy solar

Progressive Dynamics 9160Li converter charger is dumb as a box of rocks

corn18

Village Idiot
Joined
Sep 9, 2021
Messages
627
On my first trip with my new DC setup. I had replaced my WFCO 8955 non lithium capable converter charger (CC) with the highly recommended Progressive Dynamics 9160Li. I let the 2x206 Ah SOK batteries discharge to 50% to see what the PD CC would do. So it hits them hard with 60amps to start. Awesome, I think. And it keeps pushing 14.4V until the BMS cries uncle. And then the PD CC keeps pushing 14.4V. For days. I finally turned the breaker to the CC off. I need to call PD and see what's up because this CC is supposed to drop to 13.6V for float. It didn't. And to be honest, I don't like how dumb this charger is anyway. Would really like something that I can configure to match my SOK batteries or any other battery in the future.

So, now that I've dropped the coin for the PD which I don't like, what should I buy? Maybe I should have just gotten a MultiPlus.
 
So, now that I've dropped the coin for the PD which I don't like, what should I buy? Maybe I should have just gotten a MultiPlus.
A Victron MultiPlus will give you fine grained control of the charge profile.
Its a shame nobody talked you out of the lithium converter.
 
WF-9855-LIS

Please don't take this the wrong way but, what is your point?
What is my point? The OP asked what he should buy to replace his non lithium converter charger. He’s not happy with the progressive dynamics converter charger that he bought. I simply gave him a link to one that is lithium compatible that works as expected for a reasonable price.

You gave him an option as well. Thank you for your input.

I can relate to the poster because I didn’t need or want a victron MultiPlus. I’ve already discovered the issue with the Progressive Dynamics unit and therefore searched for an alternative as well. I’d rather have separate units than one single point of failure that costs a lot more. Without knowing the OP needs, I thought that I’d at least give him a option that I know works.

I trust that I explained my point to you to your satisfaction.
 
The OP asked what he should buy to replace his non lithium converter charger.
Actually he is looking for a replacement for his lithium converter, with which he is dissatisfied.
 
It’s not a dumb converter. Maybe you should read the manual?

Quote for the day: Bees don’t waste their time explaining to flys that honey is better than sh*t
I have.
Its dumb in the sense that it is not configurable.
 
WF-9855-LIS

Has this WFCO worked for you?

WFCO can't even seem to get the printed specs right. Note the link says 14.4 and 14.6 volts... which is it?

Also the standard WFCO does not start in Bulk (Boost) mode unless the battery is very low or never for the standard units. Has this changed for the "Lithium" units? And how long does it hold 14.4 - 14.6 volts if you ever see it?

For DIY LFP, the 14.6 volts will trigger BMS to cut power to the battery virtually every time. This is a poor method to charge IMO.

And to the OP, Progressive Dynamics really gets "lithium" wrong. I don't think it was recommended here.
NO converter really gets it right IMO. Best shot to me is the PowerMax PM3 with adjustable boost voltage.

https://powermaxconverters.com/product-category/converters-ac-dc/
 
Best shot to me is the PowerMax PM3 with adjustable boost voltage.
Powermax, boost mode is really short.
From memory its ~30 minutes.
Also the power factor of those units is ugly.
Lastly the fans are really loud.

I have an iota and a powermax.
The powermax is relagated to benchtop psu.

Converters are a sunset product now.
 
Last edited:
I know some people have successfully wired low-cost DC power supplies to the supply side of their smart MPPT solar charge controllers. Have you contemplated that?
 
I also have a SOK battery just like the original poster and 14.6V is not an issue for this battery and it has never triggered the BMS. At first, I was only getting about 33A from this controller until I moved it closer to the battery. This device will output a three stage charging algorithm when using standard lead acid batteries. It uses a two stage charger when using lithium. A switch or jumper wire needs to be installed on the back of the unit to differentiate between the battery chemistries. Lithium charging is 14.6V in bulk mode and 13.6V in absorption/float mode. Lead acid uses the 14.4 Volt charging. You are correct in that a standard WFCO never really goes into bulk mode. This unit does go straight to bulk mode when in lithium mode using a jumper or switch on the back of the unit. Based upon the lithiums battery voltage and current needed, the charger will maintain a steady 14.6V for one hour minimum and up to four hours maximum and then it will drop into its absorption/float mode of 13.6V. If you need more than four hours of charging on your battery bank, you simply turn off the converter using your breaker for about five seconds and turn it back on. This will repeat the 1 to 4 hour charge cycle based upon the amperage and voltage needed by your battery bank. I personally don’t like the 13.6V float so I turn off the controller charging by using a disconnect switch. If I don’t want to charge up to 14.6V, again, I flip a switch turning off the controller. I usually only charge to 14.2V and then turn off the controller but if I forget to turn the controller off, it never has a negative effect on the battery. There are different versions providing different Amp outputs of this unit available.
 
It stops at 14.6V. Actually, it doesn’t supply a constant 50amp current if your batter doesn’t need it. Two batteries would probably accept everything the controller can handle(50Amps) (More powerful converters are available to provide more amp output). It will provide a constant voltage of 14.6v between 1 and 4 hours. Once the battery gets close to full, the charger will maintain 14.6V but will start dropping the current and then the charger will drop to 13.6V.
 
Last edited:
Stops, or starts Constant Voltage to an Amp setting or time? That 13.6 sounds like a refloat setting. Float is just a form of CV usually at lower current.
Please see previous post that was edited for clarity.
 
Powermax, boost mode is really short.
From memory its ~30 minutes.
Also the power factor of those units is ugly.
Lastly the fans are really loud.
How long does an LFP battery need to be held at 14.2+ volts to be considered full charge? I thought short was better vs. the 1 to 4 hours.
Powerfactor only matters if you have an undersized generator.
Fan noise for me is not an issue as long as it goes off at night/full charge.
 
I would say that the charger is not a constant current charger at all. It’s constant voltage of 14.6V for 1-4 hours and then constant voltage of 13.6V. It will only put as much current into the battery as it needs. If it will accept 50Amps, that’s what it will give it. If at any time during the charge cycle it doesn’t need the current, then the current will start dropping, even if it’s only been plugged in for a few minutes. So theoretically even a fully charged lifepo4 battery connected will turn the charger on for one hour at 14.6V but will only be outputting an amp or even less of current.
 
Does the WFCO lithium always start at 14.6 volts into a mostly full battery? Have you observed this?
 
Back
Top