Progressive Dynamics 9160Li converter charger is dumb as a box of rocks

[RVLiFe]

Always outputs 14.6V for the first 1 to 4 hours even to a mostly charged battery. However, with a fully charged battery doesn’t go into bulk mode and I have personally seen it go straight to 13.6V. I believe it needs around 10 amps of current output to trigger this mode.

 

[John Frum]

How long does an LFP battery need to be held at 14.2+ volts to be considered full charge? I thought short was better vs. the 1 to 4 hours.
Powerfactor only matters if you have an undersized generator.
Fan noise for me is not an issue as long as it goes off at night/full charge.

Proper charge termination via tail current or a configurable absorption timer or sense leads is far superior to the quaint old lead acid inspired powermax 3 stage mode.
I added external charge termination logic to both my powermax and iota.

 

[time2roll]

Always outputs 14.6V for the first 1 to 4 hours. Even to a fully charged battery.

That is good information. Not sure it is best for the battery or necessary.

 

[time2roll]

Proper charge termination via tail current or a configurable absorption timer or sense leads is far superior to the quaint old lead acid inspired powermax 3 stage mode.

My post said I believe the Powermax was the best available RV converter. Did not say it was perfect. At least the top voltage is adjustable and personally I like the shorter time at the top for LFP. I don't know of any other RV converter that does this.

 

[RVLiFe]

That is good information. Not sure it is best for the battery or necessary.

Please see my edited post for more clarity in this.

 

[John Frum]

My post said I believe the Powermax was the best available RV converter. Did not say it was perfect. At least the top voltage is adjustable and personally I like the shorter time at the top for LFP. I don't know of any other RV converter that does this.

Iota also has a trim pot for voltage.
The pendants give better options for charge termination.

 

[RVLiFe]

A trim potentiometer would be amazing! I’m going to see if one can be added or if I can drop the absorption/float mode to 13.2V instead of 13.6V on mine.

 

[time2roll]

Always outputs 14.6V for the first 1 to 4 hours even to a mostly charged battery. However, with a fully charged battery doesn’t go into bulk mode and I have personally seen it go straight to 13.6V. I believe it needs around 10 amps of current output to trigger this mode.

That 10 amps actually seems reasonable. To bad the regular WFCO for charging lead-acid never had this feature. Could be a lot less generator run time at campgrounds.

 

[corn18]

I will play around with it some more. This is the first time I have used the new PD CC, and it irritated me when it stayed at 14.6V. To be clear, my BMS did not shut down the batteries, it just dropped the charge current to zero, which is good. When I turned off the charger, the voltage was 13.4V, right where it should be.

I'll probably just use the PD CC as a bulk charger and then turn it off and let the solar take over. My SCC's are set up nicely for my SOK BMS and they play very nicely together.

 

[RVLiFe]

My SCC's are set up nicely for my SOK BMS and they play very nicely together.

What kind of solar charger do you have if you don’t mind me asking? I just purchased a Victron 100/50 and am looking for the correct settings. I don’t have it yet but it should be here in a few days.

 

[corn18]

What kind of solar charger do you have if you don’t mind me asking? I just purchased a Victron 100/50 and am looking for the correct settings. I don’t have it yet but it should be here in a few days.

I have 2 of the Rich Solar 100/40 MPPTs. Don't remember what the settings are but I can snap a pic when I get back to the camper.

 

[HRTKD]

There are quite a few forum members that aren't satisfied with their converters that have LiFePO4-specific charge profiles. I have an IOTA DLS-55 (55 amp converter). It's not great, but I use it so infrequently that I'm not that concerned about it.

 

[richard cabesa]

What kind of solar charger do you have if you don’t mind me asking? I just purchased a Victron 100/50 and am looking for the correct settings. I don’t have it yet but it should be here in a few days.

This question needs to be asked of your battery manufacturer. Not just a bunch on the intertubes. You can adjust that Victron unit to anything your battery manufacturer wants

 

[RVLiFe]

This question needs to be asked of your battery manufacturer. Not just a bunch on the intertubes. You can adjust that Victron unit to anything your battery manufacturer wants

Actually, he has the same SOK battery as me so that is why I was inquiring as to his settings. I am purchasing a different CC than he has so I’m certain some setting will be different. I completely agree with your comment and respectfully acknowledge that different battery manufacturers may have their own recommended charging profiles. I’m certain that SOK has experience with Victron CC’s so I will ask this question to them.

 

[sunrise]

You should be able to just replace your WFCO 8955's main board with 8950L2 MBA board, which has lithium profile. works great for me.

 

[sunrise]

@smoothJoey Not every scenario calls for a Victron Multiplus. in many case not only you need to throw away existing inverter, you also need to come up with how to connect DC fuse boxes and AC breakers, so you most likely end up with keeping the converter panel anyways. And that's when you actually have the space for an additional, fairly big box. Also the big question is WHY? For me I already have a decent MPPT charger with which I can tune profile to my hearts content. Why do I need to throw away my existing inverter, converter, spend days, bend backwards to fit the big box in, and drop over $1k for something I can spent less than $200 and 30 minutes?

Of course, if I am designing a camper van from ground up, an all in one unit is much more attractive. but that's not what the OP has here.

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