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Project Update for Victron MultiplusII and 840 watt solar panel install.

DIDDLYV

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I have been busy past few days. The positive leads from the solar panels go into a breaker switch then into the respective SCCs. All wires from the roof to the SCCs are the same length by color. All the black negative lines from the roof to SCCs and from SCCs to Bus Bars are equal. The positive feeds to the breaker switch are equal length as are the feeds from the bottom of the breaker to the SCC + connection. The red wires to the breaker and on to the positive bus bar are also equal length. I have wired a bypass switch with resistor to pre charge the capacitors for the SCCs.

sccs.jpg

The main 12 volt wiring is shown below. The Victron MultiplusII 3000 12 120 calls for 2 1/0 feeds for the positive and Negative leads to the MultiplussII. That coupled with the fact 2 40 Amp SCCs are significantly less expensive than one 60 or 80 amp SSC necessary for 4 210 what solar panels has caused me to make essentially 2 parallel systems that Join at the common Black Covered and Red Covered bus Bars. The smaller gauge red and black wires coming into the respective bus bars from the left connect to the existing 5th Wheel 12 volt bus bars that feed the Distribution panel and take electricity where ever Elkridge wired stuff. I did not change any of that. I did disconnect the shore power feed from the distribution panel breakers and put in a covered 50 amp junction box on the floor behind the distribution panel and connect the heavy black 50 AMP 4 wire AC cable to the AC input of the MultiplusII. I also ran the same type cable from the AC output back to the distribution panel hooked up the exact same way the original shore power was connected.
I am installing 2 310 AMP LiFePO4 batteries. The bottom battery connects to the Red wiring closest to the MultiplusII. I have installed a 150 AMP fuse on each of the battery feeds. Primarily because I am running 150 amp day BMSs on each of the batteries. The feed for each battery goes thru the fuse to the respective cutoff switch and on to the bus bar on the positive side. I have wired a 50 Ohm 100 watt resistor as a bypass across each of the cut off switches to pre charge the capacitors of the Multiplus II. At the red covered busbar the DC positive lines run to the MultiplusII and the positive battery connection from the SCC are connected. In retrospect I probably could have made do with one bypass and charged the MultiplusII capacitors and the SCCs by intially having the breaker between the SCCs and bus bars in the off postition charged the MultiplusII capacitors for 20 seconds or so then turn on the SCC breakers. Resistors and switches are inexpensive and the redundancy appeals to me so there you are.

On the negative side the black 1/0 cable will run from the P- on the respective BMSs on to the shunt and then to the Black Covered bus bar where the negative runs from the MultiplusII and the 2 SCCs join.





main 12volt.jpg


On the inside of the trailer I have mounted the remote control unit for the MultiplusII it is fed by the white RJ45 cable that is visible going into the bottom of the MultiplusII. I was able to mount that controller in the existing power panel cabinet for lack of a better term. Had I planned better I could have also mounted the MT50s for the SCCs there but after locating the MultiplusII controller there was not room. I mounted the MT50s just below that cabinet. The black rj45 cable runs from the MT50 that is on the left as one looks at it and controls the SCC that is on the trailers left side (appears on the right in the above picture. That SCC controls the Solar panels that will be on the left (drivers side) of the 5th wheel. The green RJ45 cable connects the right side MT50 with its associated SCC and solar panels.

I was able to make a compression fixture for my cells which also serves as the mount for the BMS and a handle to pick up the batteries. Yet to be done is attaching silcone heating pads to a 9 x 12 aluminum plate that will mount to the bottom of each battery holder and will thermostatically heat the batteries when temps get to 34 degress F and kick out at 38 or 40 F. I have nearly completed making a 2 tier side mounting apparatus to hold the batteries in the existing battery compartment. I will also run a metal strap from the top piece of plywood in the battery holder to the chassis of the 5th Wheel to prevent the batteries from moving forward under hard breaking. There is no danger of them shifting backwards do to rapid acceleration.
 
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Nice write up.

Of course it makes no difference that the wires from the solar panels to the SCC are equal length.

But, it is important that the wires from each of your parallel batteries to the busbar are equal in length.

Safe to assume that is the case ?
 
Nice write up.

Of course it makes no difference that the wires from the solar panels to the SCC are equal length.

But, it is important that the wires from each of your parallel batteries to the busbar are equal in length.

Safe to assume that is the case ?
They are both reds are the same as are both the black wires though diff length than the reds
 
Well today was a day of great expectations and dashed hopes. I was able to mount the solar on the roof yesterday. I previously had connected the PV wires to a breaker that was switched off and had the SCCs connected thru a turned off breaker to the Main Positive bus bar Today I installed the 2 310 AH LiFEPO4 batteries and used 2 25 watt silicon heaters on the upper battery and 2 25 watt and one 10 watt heater pads on the lower battery. Each battery heater has its own thermostat controller set to kick in a 1 C and off at 4 C. Once everything was connected I turned on the Bypass switch around the main 12 Volt battery cut off switches to charge the capacitors of the Multiplus II and also the by pass circuits for the SCCs were activated after turning on the main battery switches prior to connecting the battery power to the SCCs. Having connected the SCC to Battery breaker got a solid green light on both SCCs I then turned on the PV breaker. All systems go on Solar side. No joy with the MultiplusII got an E 24 code. The Multiplus will not produce AC current, will not allow shore power to come thru to the main 50 amp breaker. Neither will the MultiplusII operate in the charger only mode to charge the batteries. A lot of investigation needs to be done. The E24 code has something to do with ground issues and from what I have found researching is normally a fault associated with connecting multiple Multiplus Inverters. There is some diagnostics but one is to take video of current hookups. Then disconnect all AC leads test for continuity between L1 input and L1 Output on AC1 L2, Neutral and PE etc. Then hook up all and try again. This is much easier said than done where I have the multiplus installed. I think I will have to demount from the bulkhead. put a board to protect the wiring in the tray then reconnect all with the multiplus laying horizontal and test the system again. If there is any good news the remote control unit that connects via RJ45 network cable works just fine and reports the error code. I did disconnect the remote device and did not get any AC to be converted and as soon as remote was hooked back up and the Multiplus was restarted the E 24 code appeared.
 
If you disconnect everything, you should try reconnecting with simple connections first (battery only?) and meticulously add more and more until you get the error. That should help you narrow down the cause.
 
At first glance it looks like you have the AC side wired improperly. You have 4 wires (typically 220) going in and out but it's only a 120 inverter with hookups for 3 wire (line, neutral, ground). I'd be interest in seeing how you have the AC sides connected.

EDIT: My mistake, I was looking at the wrong inverter wiring diagram. I found the right one.
 

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At first glance it looks like you have the AC side wired improperly. You have 4 wires (typically 220) going in and out but it's only a 120 inverter with hookups for 3 wire (line, neutral, ground). I'd be interest in seeing how you have the AC sides connected.

EDIT: My mistake, I was looking at the wrong inverter wiring diagram. I found the right one.
yeppers it does have 4 wire input and output. White is Neutral, Red/Pink L2, Green PE, and Black L1. I certainly think I have them all connected correctly, It is a real pain to try to pull them out. I may get that done in the AM and make sure I have Close to 3/4 inch of bare wire to stick into the connectors of each. When I took the original shore power connector off the Main breakers in distribution panel I used a Jumper block and made sure all my colors matched across the junction block and that the connections were tight. I also marked the cable that was going to AC input and made sure it was the one I jumped to the shore power. Tomorrow I can verify I get shore power to the ACinput side of the Multiplus prior to disconnecting the device. I will use a pointed lead and try to get into the terminals. I don't have access to a 50 amp connection so will make do with connecting only 120 15 amp which should only power L1. Just for drill even if I don't get power on L1 I will see if I have power on L2 of AC Input.

If I don't get it sorted by 10 AM. I will have the trailer towed out to my RV storage lot as it has been parked in front of the house for 2.5 weeks. In addition to all the work on the solar project about 2 weeks ago some really nice person decided I wanted to donate the catalytic converter from my Dodge Ram 3500 Dually that is the tow vehicle to his cause, what ever that cause is. Dodge says the part will be in in 2.5 to 3.5 weeks from now. Good news is will only take a day or 2 to fix truck once parts are in. Bad News estimate $9000. Good news have great insurance and a low deductable. Sadly in AZ one cannot shoot rabid dogs for damaging or stealing property.
 
If I do find I have power to the AC1 output from shore power I will switch the leads at my junction and distribution panel as that is much easier than getting the AC wires out of the multiplusII
 
Near as I can tell the AC leads are connected properly. I have 120 volts on the AC input and none on the AC out.
 
I have down loaded victronconnect to update firmware and parameters. Can some one PM me the secret code that allows setting to be changed. Have asked the vendor and it is not yet forthcoming.
 
A friend installed the same Multiplus recently. His incoming AC ground came directly from the Automatic Transfer Switch. While he doesn't have an onboard generator, he does have the gen prep, hence the ATS. So far, his works fine on both shore power and his Honda EU2000 inverter generator.

He used the Victron application (not Victron Connect app) to set the parameters for the inverter, through the USB dongle.
 
you have a link for the victron app. I have the victron connect app
Go to the software page:


Then scroll down a bit to the "VE Configuration tools for VE.Bus Products" section. But you can do most things with VictronConnect on the computer. About the only thing you need VEConfigure for is related to Grid Tie setups or maybe change several MuliPluses together.

And the secret code is zzz (or it might be ZZZ). Seriously, it's three zees.
 
Couple of questions

The inbound shut off breaker from panels serve any purpose than shut off for two strings?

Why not victron SCC?

Very neat installation!!!!
 
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