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Pros/Cons of 120V only in new trailer build

Not sure a trailer connector would provide enough power to recharge any RV battery. It’s a pretty skinny wire and things like Water pump and propane bower motor take up a bit more energy than a brake.
He only suggested that method for the trailer brakes as the brakes might be the only 12VDC system left. For the infrequent brake use, the aux 12v line from the tow vehicle ought to be able to handle the charging.
 
HRTKD mentioned it already but on RV trailers the house battery is your brake battery. To add a Cargo trailer (with brakes) will come with a small 12V battery already setup for the brake system. Its the reason I mention. Regardless you end up with a small 12v system regardless of going 120v/48V or not. You still have a 12V system albeit small.
Exactly. Cargo trailer would already come with a small 12V battery to operate brake system, charged from the 7 pin. Intent would be to keep that in place and separate from the trailer interior battery bank.
 
Exactly. Cargo trailer would already come with a small 12V battery to operate brake system, charged from the 7 pin. Intent would be to keep that in place and separate from the trailer interior battery bank.
Agreed. I have a 7x14 cargo trailer converted to a camper. The cargo trailer came with a small 12V battery in a box mounted to the side of the tongue. That battery is for the trailer's brakes. The 7-pin has a 12V line that controls the trailer's lights. I left all of that untouched. As part of my camper conversion I added LiFePO4 batteries, solar, etc. and a full electrical system completely independent from the trailer's original wiring and battery.

So if you convert a typical cargo trailer you can make it any voltage you want. Just leave the original battery and wiring alone and independent.

The only exception I made was when adding a rear-view camera to the roof the trailer. I tapped into the trailer's wiring to power the camera because the only time I want power going to the camera is when the trailer is connected to the tow vehicle for towing.
 
Agreed. I have a 7x14 cargo trailer converted to a camper. The cargo trailer came with a small 12V battery in a box mounted to the side of the tongue. That battery is for the trailer's brakes. The 7-pin has a 12V line that controls the trailer's lights. I left all of that untouched. As part of my camper conversion I added LiFePO4 batteries, solar, etc. and a full electrical system completely independent from the trailer's original wiring and battery.

So if you convert a typical cargo trailer you can make it any voltage you want. Just leave the original battery and wiring alone and independent.

The only exception I made was when adding a rear-view camera to the roof the trailer. I tapped into the trailer's wiring to power the camera because the only time I want power going to the camera is when the trailer is connected to the tow vehicle for towing.
Good point, hadn't gotten to the point of considering how to power a backup camera. Where did you tap into the 12V power (brake lights, straight run to the tongue/brake battery, etc)? If you tapped into brake lights, does it only have power when brakes are activated? While I would use a 48V to 12V converter inside the trailer to supply 12V power, I wouldn't want to have to turn that converter on every time I want to back up.
 
Good point, hadn't gotten to the point of considering how to power a backup camera. Where did you tap into the 12V power (brake lights, straight run to the tongue/brake battery, etc)? If you tapped into brake lights, does it only have power when brakes are activated?
I tapped into the trailer wires that are running above the rear doors. One of the wires is auxiliary power and one is ground. Those are the two you want to use assuming you want the camera to have power any time the 7-pin connector is plugged into the tow vehicle.

While I would use a 48V to 12V converter inside the trailer to supply 12V power, I wouldn't want to have to turn that converter on every time I want to back up.
Your 48V->12V buck converter would not interact at all with the trailer wiring so it would be irrelevant if you connect the camera to the trailer wiring.

BTW - I consider my camera a "rear view driving camera". It's connected ("wirelessly") to an LCD display mounted on my tow vehicle's rear view mirror. So I see behind my trailer the entire time I'm towing the trailer whether I'm going forward or backward.
 
Good point, hadn't gotten to the point of considering how to power a backup camera. Where did you tap into the 12V power (brake lights, straight run to the tongue/brake battery, etc)? If you tapped into brake lights, does it only have power when brakes are activated? While I would use a 48V to 12V converter inside the trailer to supply 12V power, I wouldn't want to have to turn that converter on every time I want to back up.
Many rigs have a running light at top center that people tap into. Just means having your running lights on 24hr which is a low amperage draw and not a bad thing for safety reasons anyway.
 
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