Pros & Cons to use loctite on grub screws on EVE Cells

[Mountainlion]

I have got my new EVE cells. Bought stainless steel grub screws.

They definitely wobble in the thread. Does not feel like they provide a sturdy connection
in a travel trailer. Loctite would definitely stop the wobbling.

But the question is will Loctite make the connection stronger.

 

[jwelter99]

Locktite and similar are an anaerobic adhesive. They will not cure unless in an oxygen free environment which is what you create when you torque a nut on a bolt. If you do not create this environment it will not cure.

If you have some badly drilled/tapped terminals it is unlikely you can torque them well enough to cause an environment where locktite will help. But you can try and worse case need to clean it up and move on to one of the other options below....

In that case I suggest you helicoil the terminals properly to get a good set of threads.

If that is too much work you can try JB-weld on the threads before you thread them in but that is a one-shot solution. If it doesn't hold you will be drilling out for helicoils as the jb-weld will likely tear the threads out with it.

Lots of threads on here with both good and terrible advice

 

[Mountainlion]

Thanks. Have used Loctite many times. Never failed. But yes I share your concern making it work on the battery pole. It is not many threads to work with.
There is nothing wrong with the threads at the moment. So Loctite would only be a preventive thing.

 

[Jimmynik1]

I doubt any thread sealant will conduct electricity. I'd confirm its the right male thread for the female end and if it is and they're just loose then maybe shim it with thin wire, foil or something that is both conductive and make the male end bigger.

 

[time2roll]

Just curious if the provided bolts wobble about the same in the threads?
Sorry no actual help on the situation.

 

[Gazoo]

doubt any thread sealant will conduct electricity.

Why does that matter? The current is carried by the busbars, not the studs, screws bolts or nuts. A good connection between the busbar and terminal is what counts. 35 inch pounds of torque applied to the busbar is equal to 700 pounds applied to the terminal.

 

[Gazoo]

I have got my new EVE cells. Bought stainless steel grub screws.

They definitely wobble in the thread. Does not feel like they provide a sturdy connection
in a travel trailer. Loctite would definitely stop the wobbling.

But the question is will Loctite make the connection stronger.

Loctite might work depending on how bad the wobble is. One of the threads on my cells stripped I used loctite on. I used standard JB Weld to fix it.

So far I have been able to torque it to 25 in lb's and it's holding. But my cells are stationary. Personally if I was you I would try standard JB Weld since you still have the threads. If you do let it cure for a couple of days.

I save the stripped threads. They have a sentimental value...lol

 

[Jimmynik1]

Why does that matter? The current is carried by the busbars, not the studs, screws bolts or nuts. A good connection between the busbar and terminal is what counts. 35 inch pounds of torque applied to the busbar is equal to 700 pounds.

Thought op was looking for something to both conduct as well as to better secure the bolt ultimately better securing the busbar. Nevertheless you can't have good busbar connection without good bolt conniption unless it's welded, at least in this application, if the screw isn't tight down then busbar won't be tight to terminal. It'd sit there with gravity keeping it down and the loose screw holding it from going left to right.

 

[Mountainlion]

Loctite might work depending on how bad the wobble is. One of the threads on my cells stripped I used loctite on. I used standard JB Weld to fix it.

So far I have been able to torque it to 25 in lb's and it's holding. But my cells are stationary. Personally if I was you I would try standard JB Weld since you still have the threads. If you do let it cure for a couple of days.

I save the stripped threads. They have a sentimental value...lol

Yes I read your post how you did that repair. You never considered to do JB weld
on the other terminals?

Agree that conductivity around the grub screw is totally irrelevant.

 

[Gazoo]

He is using stainless steel grub screws as many of us have. Stainless steel is a crumby conductor.

Nevertheless you can't have good busbar connection without good bolt conniption unless it's welded, at least in this application, if the screw isn't tight down then busbar won't be tight to terminal.

That was my point as I said above. Even with only a 25 in lb of torque applied to mine I haven't noticed anything different. So far I have run only 35 amps but that's a good indication.

It'd sit there with gravity keeping it down and the loose screw holding it from going left to right.

Some attach a nut to keep the stud perpendicular to the terminal. The other thing to watch out for especially if using JB Weld is some will seep out to the top of the terminal. It needs to be wiped off. After apx 1 hour I didn't see any more seeping out.

 

[Gazoo]

Yes I read your post how you did that repair. You never considered to do JB weld
on the other terminals?

Agree that conductivity around the grub screw is totally irrelevant.

I used loctite on all of my studs. Still one stripped out. Also I was supposed to use a primer with the loctite I bought but didn't realize it at the time. The other studs I used loctite on are fine. I had some slightly wobbly studs too but they weren't that bad. I have since bought a beam type torque wrench. Not the best but it gives me an idea of where I am at when torqueing.

If you look again at the photo I attached you will see loctite on the stud. When I realized the stud was coming up as I was tightening down the nut, it was not one of my better moments...lol

 

[Ironman]

If you look again at the photo I attached you will see loctite on the stud. When I realized the stud was coming up as I was tightening down the nut, it was not one of my better moments...lol

Have you considered re-tapping the hole to the next larger size like M8? Agood quality tap would make a nice snug thread.
I find when I buy chinese tools that thread oversizing on holes and nuts is a common problem they have.

 

[Mountainlion]

Just curious if the provided bolts wobble about the same in the threads?
Sorry no actual help on the situation

Yes it was no difference.

 

[Gazoo]

Have you considered re-tapping the hole to the next larger size like M8? Agood quality tap would make a nice snug thread.
I find when I buy chinese tools that thread oversizing on holes and nuts is a common problem they have.

I have. If my stud doesn't hold then I will look in that direction. Or get a replacement cell. I think it will hold providing I don't torque it more than 25 ft lbs.

 

[Lennoncs]

New to the forum but thought I might as well jump into the deep end...

Most “Loctite” is not just anaerobic, it also requires the presence of ions from an active metal to cure also.
Stainless steel and plated fasteners are not active and therefore must use a primer. I’ve pulled aluminum assemblies apart after years and the loctite was still gooey.

Some of those terminals look to only have a 70% thread at best, what about 100% threaded stock or slightly oversized?

Sean

 

[Darkstar]

I have got my new EVE cells. Bought stainless steel grub screws.

They definitely wobble in the thread. Does not feel like they provide a sturdy connection
in a travel trailer. Loctite would definitely stop the wobbling.

But the question is will Loctite make the connection stronger.

I have used both locktite (with locktite primer) and jbweld on my terminal threads. I have found that locktite primer is essential in getting the locktite to cure properly.

Locktite plus the primer is the best solution and holds tightly. Use the permanent locktite red.

JB Weld did not work nearly as well for me. It was easy to loosen the studs when I used JB Weld.

Locktite Red plus locktite primer held well and allowed me to torque the terminals to spec with no issues once cured.

 

[DerpsyDoodler]

I have. If my stud doesn't hold then I will look in that direction. Or get a replacement cell. I think it will hold providing I don't torque it more than 25 ft lbs.

inch pounds, right?

 

[upnorthandpersonal]

Locktite 648 works well on inactive metals (stainless etc.) without a primer as well.

 

[Mountainlion]

I have used both locktite (with locktite primer) and jbweld on my terminal threads. I have found that locktite primer is essential in getting the locktite to cure properly.

Locktite plus the primer is the best solution and holds tightly. Use the permanent locktite red.

JB Weld did not work nearly as well for me. It was easy to loosen the studs when I used JB Weld.

Locktite Red plus locktite primer held well and allowed me to torque the terminals to spec with no issues once cured.

Thanks will give it a try!
cleaning + loctite primer 494147 + loctite 271

 

[Gazoo]

inch pounds, right?

Sorry about that. Yes, inch pounds.