I'm on building my first battery pack and this thread helped me a lot.
[EDIT] I had not paid attention that some loctite don't require primer like mentioned just
above. The current red loctite I have on hand is like OP, the 271 which requires primer. It seems cheaper to buy one of the following 243 (blue,
cure time 72+ h on SS) or 263 (red,
cure time ~22h on SS). Note: the
648 cure time on SS is 168 hours!! Manufacturer's cure time uses either 22C (~72F) or 23C (~73F), go figure!
For those stumbling on this thread, consider downloading the following resource guide
Basics for putting lugs on posts - currently the guide references loctite 533 and that seems wrong.
If you have on hand the 271, per manufacturer recommendation you should consider to put primer. The following applies at least to 271:
When to use primer loctite
. "Recommended for inactive metal such as pure aluminum and stainless steel." - This matches what we're trying to accomplish.
. "Helps for "large bond gaps" - Like OP, I too find that the stainless steel grub screw wobble a lot compared to what I'm used.
. "Speeds up the curing time" - OP wrote within 2-3m it had started to set in.. this is indeed quite faster.
From the
Primer info page :
. "For smaller gaps, it is only necessary to apply the accelerator to one surface, this seems our case." - This seems to match our case.
. "Allow the solvent carrier of the activator to evaporate off completely so that the parts are dry to the touch. The accelerator has an on-part life of 30 days. Within that window of time, the anaerobic can be applied normally."
. "It is recommended to use the correct loctite cleaner for the surface to be bonded {snip} to degrease and clean surfaces prior to applying the adhesive." - They recommend their product but isopropyl alcohol is likely good enough.