diy solar

diy solar

Question about Growatt AC IN

The USA models will have 120 volts between L1 and N , 120 volts between L2 and N , and 240 volts between L1 and L2 , That is what is defined as split phase, the Neutral is halfway between L1 and L2, That is how we get 120 volts for lights, fans, etc, and 240 volts for water heaters, stoves, air conditioners, etc

In outer countries there is 240 volts only, lights, radios, and electric stoves are all 240 volts, there is no low voltage for small appliances

Absolutely no inverter that is rated 240 volts with only L1 and N connectors is safe for use in any split phase country, which includes U.S. , Canada, Mexico, US possessions incliding Puerto Rico and others , Antartica, a few South American countries.

Split phase does not appear in any of Asia or Europe, not sure about Africa


Asian and European inverters must be especially manufactured for the split phase market.

Victron is an European manufacturer that does make split phase american market inverters.
So if I only have 240 volts between (what is labeled) L and N and 0 volts between G and L and G and N. Do I have the euro model or is there a setting in the menu to change it? I am kind of confused right now.
 
Sorry for my english first. I just installed my Growatt SPF 5000 inverter. But made big mistake when tighten the AC IN terminals, Live terminal scrolled and now it can't tighten anymore. I can't open it, because it has guarantee. Is there any way to tighten it? I put in a 6mm2 h07v-k conductor and it is working now, it charges battery with 10 amps but I'm afraid it may generate heat and even blow.
 
Last edited:
Sorry for my english first. I just installed my Growatt SPF 5000 inverter. But made big mistake when tighten the AC IN terminals, Live terminal scrolled and now it can't tighten anymore. I can't open it, because it has guarantee. Is there any way to tighten it? I put in a 6mm2 h07v-k conductor and it is working now, it charges battery with 10 amps but I'm afraid it may generate heat and even blow.

Those screws are in plastic and can strip so easily with just the slightest of pressure. If you could get the screw out somehow you can stick something inside of the screw hole like a small piece of plastic for the threads of the screw to grab a hold of something.
If you do just gently screw it in and soon as it feels like its up against the wire stop. lol that is how fragile those plastic terminals are.
 
If you look carefully at any late NEC it does not say UL, it says Listed and approved by the AHJ. If your install is Listed by some recognized testing lab and that is Approved by your local Authority Having Jurisdiction your covered.
 
If you look carefully at any late NEC it does not say UL, it says Listed and approved by the AHJ. If your install is Listed by some recognized testing lab and that is Approved by your local Authority Having Jurisdiction your covered.

How often have you encountered an AHJ that accepts something that's not UL listed?
 
The point is , the UL listing is not required just Listed and AHJ approval. Don't judge everyone by your local situation.

That may have been your point, but I'm challenging you to back up your optimism. Yes, I agree with you that it's worth asking the question, but I expect the success rate of approvals with non-UL listed hardware is low.
 
That may have been your point, but I'm challenging you to back up your optimism. Yes, I agree with you that it's worth asking the question, but I expect the success rate of approvals with non-UL listed hardware is low.
I just stated a fact. Back up? Any recent NEC Code book and its in both of these, a 2014 and 2020.
 
The ONLY listing agencies in the US are approved by the U.S. O.S.H.A ‘s N.R.T.L. program......not by the local authorities. (United States Federal Law)

The testing agencies cannot write the listing standards....THAT is done by U.L.

U.L. does have testing labs in Germany, Japan, and China to certify products made in those areas meant for the
American market. T.U.V. (German) does have testing labs that certify european products throughout europe to certify products for the American market as well as certify euro market products for the euro market (though to standards appropriate for Europe.)

There are some hundreds of testing laboratories in the US (and worldwide) approved by OSHA’s NRTL program, each with their own specialties, some are consumer electronics, some are industrial only, some are speciality products, such as my “certified wind speed annometers , wind vanes, etc...” but in any case they ALL are approved by as OSHA’s NRTL which is an agency of the United States


The N.E.C (National Electrical Code) is written by the NFPA....(National Fire Protection Association) NOT A GOVERNMENTAL AGENCY ......AND has NO AUTHORITY TO WRITE STANDARDS......IT IS ONLY AN ADVISORY AGENCY.......It is not the only standards agency, here on the left coast we have the CEC.....the California Electrical Code which is a refined N.E.C, based on the NEC but more up to date but still a standards agency....There are many more in the soup.

SO bottom line it IS NOT the N.E.C which sets the standards......IT IS OSHA’s NRTL program......

U.L. was formerly a monopoly in the US but that was thrown out by the U.S. Supreme Court as monopoly has been owtlawed in the U.S. (Carterphone vs American Telephone and Telegraph)

OSHA......... the Occupational Safety Hazards Adminstration.

NRTL.......Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory , a program and division of O.S.H.A.

U.L. Underwriters Laboratory

ETL Electronic Testing Laboratory

U.L. is a U.S. OSHA NRTL.....

TUV is a U.S. OSHA NRTL....

ETL is a U.S. OSHA NRTL....


Hope that this clarifies the situation somewhat.....


My credentials.....retired from a career in Electrical Engineering from a Corporation known world wide by it’s two letter initials, makes everything from jet engines to nuclear power plants, Hydro Power Plants , Refrigerators, Kitchen stoves, appliances, (used to make) radios and televisions for consumers, now they only have the name on them

“Life is better with X.X.”........guess who..
 
Last edited:
Interesting but OHSA is a workplace safety agency, zero to do with Building Codes. https://www.osha.gov/laws-regs or https://www.osha.gov/aboutosha founded in 1970.

The NEC has been around since 1896 and it recognized as The Electrical Code and adopted by law in All 50 states, OHSA is not a Building Code. https://www.nfpa.org/overview it states Listed and that's all.

OSHA’s Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory (NRTL) program. OSHA created the NRTL program to ensure that certain types of equipment are tested and certified for their safe use in the workplace.

Added: It will be interesting If the 2022 NEC Code will change the Listed to say Listed by the NRTL program, if so it would make much clearer one of many confusing points.
 
Last edited:
That is what I was thinking. Thanks. Looks like they are going to send me another version.
I forgot to reply to this a while back. Signature Solar states that the US model should read G-L-N there the only voltage is 240V on L. The input is the same. You have to have a transformer to have a US 240V system. The transformer I got from them only has a single input, so if you want to hook up the input, I believe you have to purchase a transformer for that (never did get the information).
 
Better choices for North American grid.
Yes there is. I really wish this would have been explained in Will's video(s). If I ever do this again, I will run as far away and as fast as possible from anything Growatt. I have have had nothing but issues and still have not gotten my system to work properly yet. Still waiting on a BMS replacement form the battery.
 
Back
Top