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Question on Wiring

gabe1475

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Nov 23, 2020
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This is probably a silly question, but if I have a router that is currently on a transformer (12v 2a) with a 2.1mm tip. Would prefer not to have the inverter on when in use, thinking I should just be able to splice into the wires get rid of the transformer and connect directly to a Battery? Let me now if I am missing anything here.

Will probably put an inline fuse to prevent from a short circuit, but thinking it should be fairly simple.
 
This is probably a silly question, but if I have a router that is currently on a transformer (12v 2a) with a 2.1mm tip. Would prefer not to have the inverter on when in use, thinking I should just be able to splice into the wires get rid of the transformer and connect directly to a Battery? Let me now if I am missing anything here.

Will probably put an inline fuse to prevent from a short circuit, but thinking it should be fairly simple.
Fuse is definitely a good idea.
You don't say what battery chemistry you are using so I will assume lifepo4
lifepo4 voltage can be anywhere between 14.6 volts and 10.0 volts.
Your router might work fine on that range or it might not.
You could put a little buck/boost converter into the circuit to regulate the voltage.
 
Fuse is definitely a good idea.
You don't say what battery chemistry you are using so I will assume lifepo4
lifepo4 voltage can be anywhere between 14.6 volts and 10.0 volts.
Your router might work fine on that range or it might not.
You could put a little buck/boost converter into the circuit to regulate the voltage.
It is Lifepo4. Was thinking only watts mattered when the volts are that close. The router will probably draw 2A at12v. if it came in at 13.2, the amps would be slightly lower.
 
It is Lifepo4. Was thinking only watts mattered when the volts are that close. The router will probably draw 2A at12v. if it came in at 13.2, the amps would be slightly lower.
The load determines the draw but the charge source determines the voltage.
Another user recently had a load that was 12.0 volts +-.2
 
Put in a small inverter, just for the router. It may not even need to be pure sine wave. All my electronics with a brick (transformer) are working well on my 1000 watt modified sine wave inverter. However, I don't run them 24 hours a day. More like six to eight hours a day.
 
In all likelihood the router will work from between 9-18V. The first bit of electronics inside is going to be a voltage regulator to change the incoming voltage to what the board really requires, which is probably 5V.
 
Put in a small inverter, just for the router. It may not even need to be pure sine wave. All my electronics with a brick (transformer) are working well on my 1000 watt modified sine wave inverter. However, I don't run them 24 hours a day. More like six to eight hours a day.
That is actually a good idea and what I was thinking after I started looking at step down converters which are not 100% efficient either. Have a 120w samlex from when we first purchased the trailer and thought that would work, our plans quickly changed as we were on a quest for the perfect cup of coffee while camping.
 
Yes, all routers use 5V, 3.3V and 1.8V for electronic inside. Input in 10-14V range should be completely OK.
 
In all likelihood the router will work from between 9-18V. The first bit of electronics inside is going to be a voltage regulator to change the incoming voltage to what the board really requires, which is probably 5V.
That is also a possibility. I will look at the device and see if it has a range of operating voltage, if so plan on wiring straight to dc, if not I will stick with a small inverter and the original transformer.
 
n all likelihood the router will work from between 9-18V. The first bit of electronics inside is going to be a voltage regulator to change the incoming voltage to what the board really requires, which is probably 5V.
This was my first thought as well, and I agree with everybody else who says that an extra inverter is unnecessary and will increase losses and is something else to go wrong. Personally I'd put an in-line fuse on both the + and the - connections =)
 
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