Quick check, Epever 10A SCC Series pair 200w 24v panels?

rray

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I have a pair of Rich Solar 24v 200W panels on my camper, feeding my Bluetti AC200, working fine, and by noon the Bluetti is always fully charged.

I want to charge 600Wh (12V 55Ah) worth of LFP boat battery with these panels each day too, so I plan on connecting the solar panels through an Epever 10A SCC to the battery.

My question is on sizing the solar charge controller. I am under the impression that the 10A rating is the Solar Input rating, not the Battery Output rating.

Does a 10A SCC mean that it takes in 10A of solar from the panels or does it mean that it outputs 10A to the battery?

I have the pair of panels flat mounted in series measuring 90 Voc and rated at 5.3A 38V max. I have never seen more than 230W input to my Bluetti. So the Bluetti panel says it is charging at 56 volts and 4.1 amps at it's maximum.

So, if the Epever 1210AN SCC is rated for a charging current of 10A with a realized max input power of 260W (400W theoretical maximum), will the battery receive only 10A at say 14V or will the battery receive a higher amperage at 14v to equal the total solar input wattage?




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Tracer 1210AN MPPT Charge Controller​



  • 12V / 24V DC Auto
  • Rated charge current: 10A
  • Max.PV open circuit voltage:100VDC (92V at 25℃ temperature)
  • Max Input Power:12V @ 130W | 24V @ 260W
  • The Maximum power of PV array DO NOT greater than 1.5 x the rated charging power of controller!
  • Battery type selection: lead-acid (Gel, Sealed, Flooded) and Lithium
  • Battery voltage range: 9V~32V C
  • Common-Negatived Ground Controller
  • Charging Power and Current Limitation Function
  • Working environment temperature: -25℃~+50℃

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RICH SOLAR 200 Watt 24 Volt Moncrystalline Solar Panel​

  • Maximum Power(Pmax): 200W
  • Maximum Power Voltage(Vmp): 37.6V
  • Maximum Power Current(Imp): 5.32A
  • Open Circuit Voltage(Voc): 45.4V
  • Short Circuit Current(Isc): 5.83A
  • Maximum System Voltage(Vmax): 1000V DC
 
Last edited:

Forbisher

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400 watts panels into a 12V battery is about 30A not 10A which is output to battery.
The epever manual will state MaX PV production for the 10A SCC which is 130w into a 12V battery.
Weird that you call a panel 24V but omit the most important spec which is 200 watts.
Also weird that you say 600wh boat battery but omit the voltage.
 
Last edited:

rray

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Thanks for your reply. I edited to clarify my post.

I assume then that the specification of naming an SCC as a 10A solar charge controller means then it will only OUTPUT 10A to the battery. I was under the assumption that the naming of a 10A solar charge controller meant it can only take in 10 amps from solar panels, within it's specified voltage input range, but I wanted to clarify to be sure.

What's weird is I did forget to type in that the panels were 24V 200W, at least I remembered to post their specs.

The battery is a 12V 55Ah LiFePO4 battery, that I use to power an electric trolling motor. I calculate it is approximately 600Wh.

I know it may sound weird when everyone is always taking about Amp Hours, but Ah alone don't tell me the total power, yet when someone tells me Watt Hours, I know how much total energy that is, regardless of the voltage or the amperage.

The bottom line is I already have a solar solution for my camper, but I want to also charge my boat battery each day after the camper is charged, so I want to put up to 600Wh into that battery using no more than about $60 worth of SCC. It takes about 6-7 hours to charge the boat battery with it's AC adapter, and that uses a lot of my Bluetti's capacity, where adding a $60 charge controller to my system could charge it faster and not consume the Bluetti's capacity.
 

Bud Martin

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What is the price of the 10A, 20A. 30A SCC?
I would get 30A SCC if you can to take advantage of the 400W of panels you have.
 

rray

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I went with the 20A SCC, because of size. I can barely fit it where it's convenient for wiring, however the 30A model is 1/2" too wide. The 20A is supposed to be able to output 260W for 12V, and the unit is supposed to be rated safe for solar inputs 1.5 times the 260W output, or 390W.

Since I have not seen more than 230W produced so far, I should be more than OK going with the 20A.

The compromise I make going with the 20A over the 10A is that I can only screw in one side of the SCC for mounting, with the other side's mounting screws inaccessible, sliding behind a cabinet door frame. It's also $20 more for the 20A, so not too bad.
 

pollenface

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They are good chargers. I would suggest getting the MT50 remote meter (for charging info and making adjustments) and extended battery temp sensor if you haven't already.
 

rray

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They are good chargers. I would suggest getting the MT50 remote meter (for charging info and making adjustments) and extended battery temp sensor if you haven't already.
I actually ordered the RS485 to USB cable. I have a 12v mini pc for a media player, a 32" 12v monitor, and a 12v soundbar in my camper. Should be easy to setup with the windows software. I am trying to do everything I need with 12V in my camper.

Edit: I'll look up and order the temp sensor too.
 

12VoltInstalls

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So if your Bluetti gets charged from the panels…and your charging takes too much out of it. Then basically you are taking the charge potential away from the bluetti and dumping it in the boat battery. Roughly the same energy either way…

Nevertheless- if I were to do it and had $60 to spend I wouldn’t undersize the boat SCC
 

rray

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I ended up going with the 20A SCC, and returned the 10A. I was able to make the 20A just barely fit the spot I had, by laser cutting a mounting plate with top and bottom screw holes instead of using the SCC's side mounting flange screw holes.
 
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