diy solar

diy solar

re-routed wiring back to front of trailer

fordprefect

New Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2020
Messages
3
Hi Everyone. I have been trying to finish a big upgrade to my travel trailer's electrical system. I move the battery box from the A-frame on the front of the trailer to the inside of the trailer and added a multuiplus 24 3000. My confusion is about what to do bringing electricity back to the front of the trailer for the electric tongue jack and brakes.

I run from the multiplus (24v) to a 24v to 12 volt converter and then into the electrical box. What I want to do is to connect a wire directly from the 12v side of the converter back to the travel trailer's electrical access spot under the front compartment. It would run into a fuse that would then branch out to individual fuses for each of the wires running to the jack and brakes.

My concerns are regarding the negative wires for these devices. I am concerned about doubling up the negatives because of how they were dealt with in the original format versus now where the negative wire would be from the converter to the busbar... and onto the frame. I am also concerned about whether I need some sort of way to reduce the amperage of the electrical current. It is a 24v system with 200ah LiFePO4 batteries.

Any guidance or suggestions from people who have moved their battery banks is greatly appreciated.
Thanks so much!!
Be well.
 
What is the output amp rating on your 24v-12v converter? How many amps is your tongue jack rated for?

You may find it easier or perhaps less complicated to keep a small lead acid battery on the tongue for those two loads. The power from the 7-pin cable would then be used to charge the lead acid battery. This is what I did on my trailer. However, my situation is a bit more complicated than yours since I also have an on-board generator that needs a high amp 12v starter battery available.
 
My concerns are regarding the negative wires for these devices. I am concerned about doubling up the negatives because of how they were dealt with in the original format versus now where the negative wire would be from the converter to the busbar... and onto the frame.
Not sure I'm 100% clear on what you are saying but...
If you are saying the legacy wiring is using the chassis as the return path...
Its inefficient and you can do better but depending on the legacy system it might be a can of worms.
Can't really advise without knowing what the current setup is.
 
Back
Top