Re-vamping truck camper wiring

MrRogers21

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Hey all! I bought a 20 year old truck camper awhile ago and have been taking the winter to figure out wiring. While I have done some electrical wiring in the past, DC wiring has definitely been a new subject, especially with the integration of AC.

After looking through this forum and a bunch of videos, I believe I have everything drawn up appropriately, but wanted to get any additional thoughts on the planned setup.

I also had 2 specific questions that I thought I would get your thoughts on as well:
  1. Since I am upgrading the majority of the core wiring to handle a more modern use of the camper, I am thinking about upgrading the existing 30a shore wiring to 50a. Besides upgrading the wiring and making sure the components are 50a appropriate, are there any additional considerations I should take into account?
  2. I have a 50a DC breaker between the positive busbar & the DC distribution panel, but the current panel has a 30a limit. Will this cause any issues?
    1. My understanding is that as long as the wiring is sized for over 50a, it should not be an issue. Since this is 20 year old board, I may be replacing it (though it is working perfect atm), and figured I would future proof it a little.
Thanks in advance!
 

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smoothJoey

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Suggest you get a ul-458 listed inverter charger with built in automatic transfer switch.
It will make your converter redundant.
Makes the rest of the integration easy.

50 amp service is split phase 120/240VAC.
 

MrRogers21

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Thanks smoothJoey! I hadn't considered verifying the UL listing for the inverter, and will be double checking that now. I am actually keeping the charger & inverter purposefully split at the moment as I determine my electrical needs (basically, I'm going to be determining if I want to get more batteries and go to a 24v system). Ideally, once I determine that I will stay at 12v, or go to 24v, I will be switching to a Victron inverter/charger. I agree though, it does make things a little more difficult right now

Also, great point about the 50a service. While I have seen this, I don't think that I have fully written how how I will handle that aspect. My goal is to be able to take advantage of the additional power if available, and can use an adapter to go from 50>30>20 as needed. This might require a little more research and just keep the 30a service as is for now.
 

smoothJoey

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I hadn't considered verifying the UL listing for the inverter, and will be double checking that now.
ul-458 only applies to inverter chargers with built-in transfer switch.
The problem they solve is the neutral ground bond has to be switched automatically for life safety.
When you are connected to shore power the bond is upstream of the pedestal.
When you not connected to shore power the bond is within your domain.
 

HRTKD

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Why do you want to go to 50 amps? I can't see a truck camper using more than 30 amps. Even if you ran the air conditioner on full blast and ran the microwave at the same time, 30 amps is going to be plenty.
 

MrRogers21

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The problem they solve is the neutral ground bond has to be switched automatically for life safety.
Would this be solved as long as the bonds on each end of the switch are appropriately grounded (pedestal/camp for shore; vehicle for inverter)? I definitely want to make sure that I am using the switch safely.

Why do you want to go to 50 amps? I can't see a truck camper using more than 30 amps. Even if you ran the air conditioner on full blast and ran the microwave at the same time, 30 amps is going to be plenty.
You know...you're absolutely right. I am scrapping this idea. I was thinking of upgrading to 50a since I would need to add 30a components in anyways, but really...what would I be gaining. Heck, even if I did need more than a 30a capacity, I can just reduce my use in other areas (I won't need to run the AC full blast 24/7, haha).
 

smoothJoey

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Would this be solved as long as the bonds on each end of the switch are appropriately grounded (pedestal/camp for shore; vehicle for inverter)? I definitely want to make sure that I am using the switch safely.
No the neutral/ground bond has to be switched because there must be one and only one bond.
When you are connected to shore power that bond is out of your control.
When you are not connected to shore power that bond must be in your domain.
Grounding is a big confusing topic.
Many an electrician has cursed the heavens but there it is.
 

MrRogers21

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No the neutral/ground bond has to be switched because there must be one and only one bond.
That makes sense, and is something I just took for granted in the switch, so I appreciate your comment on this.

Looking into the switch details (I am now looking at the 30a version), I see that they are ETL listed to conform to UL 1008, which I believe addresses the ATS version your comment around the UL 458 for the inverter/charger. Does that seem accurate?
 

smoothJoey

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That makes sense, and is something I just took for granted in the switch, so I appreciate your comment on this.

Looking into the switch details (I am now looking at the 30a version), I see that they are ETL listed to conform to UL 1008, which I believe addresses the ATS version your comment around the UL 458 for the inverter/charger. Does that seem accurate?
Please link to your ATS.
I google UL1008 and see what I can glean.
 

smoothJoey

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That makes sense, and is something I just took for granted in the switch, so I appreciate your comment on this.

Looking into the switch details (I am now looking at the 30a version), I see that they are ETL listed to conform to UL 1008, which I believe addresses the ATS version your comment around the UL 458 for the inverter/charger. Does that seem accurate?
Since the linked doco does not contain the word neutral or bond I doubt its relevant.
 
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