diy solar

diy solar

Really Need Help! Time sensitive 24v 1000w system

Humble

New Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2021
Messages
2
Okay guys, here's the situation. I'm going off grid in 5 days due to my lease being up at my current home. We got rushed out onto some land we bought and I've been working to try to understand everything but i'm taking in a lot of new information at once and am left unsure about a lot. I have the following coming in the mail currently:

4x250w solar pannels from santan solar - https://store.santansolar.com/product/santan-solar-t-series-250w/
4x 12v 125amp Sealed lead acid batteries- see attached pictures, not gel
1x one solar 60amp MPPT charge controller -https://amzn.to/3dCUQY7
1x giandel 2000w 24v sine wave inverter- https://amzn.to/2ZJ1DHI

What I DON'T have, however, are any cables or fuses which i've been putting off since i don't want to buy the wrong equipment.

we will be wiring everything into a 12x24 cabin space and mounting the panels on the ground next to the cabin (the roof slopes the opposite way).

Here is what I believe I need to get started:

A) 1x cable to pannels: 20ft 8awg

B) 2x pairs battery tie cables: 1ft 2awg
https://amzn.to/3dG5q0s

C) 1x (pair) Inverter cable: 3ft 4awg

D) 1x pair solar branch connector : series-parallel 2x250watts with 2x 250watts

As you can see I have no idea what fuse size i need or how many.

if you think i need to order anything different or in different quantities please do say something and explain why because I ofc need to know.
I also have been confused on the use of fuse boxes and connector boxes. I wont be running DC appliances so I don't know what's necessary.

All I have to power for now, and all require 110/120v AC (as we get set up) is a propane range, 3x LED lights, a Projector with internal battery, a laptop and two cell phones. extention cords from the inverter will be powering these as we get our bearings and I have more time to learn how to properly wire our cabin.

In the future we will be adding a small fridge, wifi router, wireless dog fence, exhaust fans and a minisplit but I fully intend on increasing my battery bank to do so.

And please, I don't need scrutiny on my rushing this process as its totally a circumstantial situation. positive vibes and good advice is all i need lmao.

will cross post in other threads due to the urgency so thank you all in advance.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210223_135739.jpg
    IMG_20210223_135739.jpg
    90.2 KB · Views: 8
  • IMG_20210223_135746.jpg
    IMG_20210223_135746.jpg
    90 KB · Views: 8
Welcome to the forum.

Summary:
  • 1000W solar
  • 6kWh/3kWh usable capacity
  • I have that SCC. It's a piece of garbage. It's terrible for lead acid. Return it. I mean it. Not a joke. Not an opinion. It's bad. Get one recommended by Will on his SCC page. You need 1000W/24V = 42A. A 40A controller will be fine.
  • 2000W/24V = 83A
Cables depend 1) on current 2) on distance.

1) is determined by a resource like the "awg chart" in link #2 in my sig. It's based on the copper area and the insulation rating. You can buy higher rated cable than 90°C max listed on that chart.
2) determines the voltage drop/power loss:


A) Assuming 2S2P array, 8awg, 20', 60.6V and 16.5A: 0.68% voltage drop - way fine, 10awg would be fine.

B) Fine

C) Fine

D) Fine

I'm not seeing the wire between SCC and battery. 8awg would be fine. You'd want a 50A fuse on 40A controller (1.25X).

You don't NEED any fuses for your solar array. A 2S2P array doesn't require it. If you choose to do it, a single 15A fuse/breaker on EACH string or a single 25A fuse/breaker on the pair after they're joined.

You need a 1.25 * 83A = 104A (round up to the next higher you can find) fuse/breaker between inverter/battery

Roughly speaking, your current system with decent sun (3 "solar" hours, link #5 in my sig) and proper panel orientation could power one and a half typical residential refrigerators.

If you can't see signature, turn phone/tablet sideways.
 
A,B,C) yes.

Make sure you get a good crimper. Will has tools on his site too.

Don't need a fuse, but a breaker is a very handy array "disconnect switch".

Urgency abated, the issue with that SCC is it's only 2 stage:

"Sam's" review sums it up nicely:


I have mine held in reserve as a backup, but I'm now running a Victron 250/100.

Make sure you get the manufacturer's battery parameters - absorption and float voltages. Hopefully, they are deep cycle. Enable temperature compensation on the EPEVER. SLA batteries voltages only apply at 25°C. Hotter needs lower, colder needs higher. That's what the temperature compensation does. It helps prolong their life.

Important to note that at rest or under very light loads, a 12V battery at 12V is only about 50% full, and you want to avoid going deeper unless it's an emergency, so when you hit 24V, you need to be thinking about cutting power. Again, this only matters when at rest or very lightly loaded (10A or less). If you hit it with a 2000W load, and it drops below 24V, that's fine - as long as it pops back above 24V when the load is removed.
 
those battery's look like "boat deep cycles battery" which would mean starter type battery... so they don't like deep discharge.. maybe 30%.
also I didn't see where they said 125ah..

what are you running on your system?
 
Back
Top