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(Really) Off-Grid EVAL with the Sol-Ark 5K - True off-grid is the ONLY place to test Off-Grid ability. (or stay on the grid).

Outpost_51

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Arizona
The Sol-Ark 5k Hybrid inverter is praised for it's all-in-one design, ease of installation, and it's many included features that are highly regarded for GRID-TIE solutions.

Unlike other reviews that are little more than "out of box" experiences, I installed this system (myself) and have operated it in a variety of conditions for a period of over 120 days (in a TRUE OFF-Grid environment). My comments in this review are a reflection of that period of use.

This "Off-grid system kit" with a Sol-ark 5k Inverter is loaded with excellent features I believe "could" be a very good (but not excellent) GRID-TIE solution. However, it falls WELL SHORT of a "complete Off-Grid solution" (by itself or in this kit configuration) and should NOT be "marketed" as one.

ON-Grid: (an explanation of ON-Grid is necessary for comparison and understanding)
So let's consider that you install this system for your home in a city somewhere and get everything working correctly. You're connected to the electrical GRID and can take advantage of all the capabilities of this system. The "pass-through" ability operates all the equipment in your home, and charges your batteries with normal GRID power that you buy from the electrical source company. In addition, the power produced from your PV array can reduce your power consumption from the GRID, charge batteries, and any surplus power (generated from the PV array and not otherwise used) can be sold back to the GRID to reduce your costs of electricity.
When the GRID goes out, you have battery power available to be converted to regular electricity by your inverter to run your "critical" loads- like your refrigerator, freezers, medical devices, security system, etc. In some cases and if your system is big enough you may even be able to (also) run your non-critical loads- things like your microwave, air conditioner, heaters, pin-ball machines, etc.

On-Grid Evaluation: (example only, I cannot do this, I'm OFF-Grid)
Most people will be satisfied with an ON-GRID test/evaluation such as this:
Create a power failure by turning off the main breaker to disconnect the power supplied to your home from the GRID.
Without a system like this, it's lights out and the only things that might work are probably your internet router and computer connected to your (i.e 650 watt) UPS battery backup.
Other things that work may include your phone if if you have one connected to the internet ( if that's working) and what most people "take for granted" is their water supply, fed to your house by the local utility. So in most cases you may still have water pressure to provide water to drink, take showers, and flush toilets with.

You CANNOT test a system for OFF-Grid use in this manner!!
(So let's do this right)

What is OFF-Grid?
For the purpose of definition, drive down your favorite country road to where the pavement ends and a dirt road begins. Put your vehicle in 4-wheel drive and continue to drive for another 10 miles or so, until there are no more utility poles for the power grid and cable television. It's likely that (here) there is no water or sewer supply, and if there isn't - congratulations, -you are "almost" OFF-Grid.

Now drive another 20 miles or so (are we there yet?) and check your cell phone. If your cell phone is still working, you are NOT there yet. Keep going. Eventually your phone will stop working and a few miles later you will find a beautiful piece of OFF-Grid property- where the only resources are the SUN, WIND, EARTH, and wildlife. Welcome Home Neighbor! THIS is OFF-Grid.

THIS is where you will learn if your OFF-Grid system is suitable for OFF-Grid use.

NOW you can move: (OFF-Grid)
Let's take that same home, configured the same way, and magically move it to this location, OFF-GRID.
You will be very pleased to find that MOST of what your electrical needs are working with the energy you collect from the SUN (for free) in your new OFF-Grid paradise. Your refrigerator, freezer, TV, toaster, lights....all work fine. Day or night.

If your solar system is sized correctly, you will also enjoy some comforts like heating and air conditioning, provided by an efficient mini-split or heat pump type of system.

You will provide your own water supply and septic system (But):
While the septic system will not require anything from your solar system, you may have a serious problem with water supply. For water supply, you can drill a well or collect water in other ways and store that water in a tank. You can gravity feed the water to the house but in most cases you will need to have a pump to supply pressure and have positive water for your water heater, shower, sinks, and appliances like a dishwasher and clothes washer.

The problem with motors:
An OFF-Grid system should be designed and/or include necessary equipment to provide adequate electrical power to "all" devices that you will typically use in your dwelling. This system falls "well short of that requirement" in and OFF-Grid application.

As wonderful as the Sol-Ark inverter is, it has a major shortcoming- and when installed in a true OFF-Grid environment is a "serious" problem. Due to it's "transformer-less" design, this inverter may, and usually does struggle and fail to start induction motors (especially 120V single phase). This will cause an overload fault with the inverter and/or overheat and possibly damage the motor that you're trying to start.

This is (usually) NOT a problem if you don't have any motors to use, but when you are OFF-Grid, it is guaranteed that you will have something like a well pump, a washing machine, or other device with a single-phase motor in it that you will need to use AND power it with your inverter as there is NO GRID POWER to operate these devices. Imagine living off the grid and not being able to run your washing machine? your dish washer? your well pump? Some motorized devices that only use (typically) 3-5 amps continuous to up to 15 amps start surge (@1800 watts) may not run on this system! Even though the system is capable of 5000 Watts! The solution ( that's NOT INCLUDED in the kit) is an add-on component that costs about $700 more.

Mis-communication:
In several communications with the retailer, we came to a solution for me to return a transfer switch (that I didn't need) for credit to be applied toward the "add-on" component. However, there was some mis-communication as to that agreement and I was also "accused" of sending the switch back without the hardware that came with it. Eventually I was credited (about 65%) for the switch, but the agreement for the purchase of the add-on was forgotten or lost in the communication that was passed between a few people in the company. After several months, I'm still using this solar system in a limited capacity while I shop for a solution that will be suitable for my OFF-Grid needs.

Remote Monitoring:
They tell you that remote monitoring works OFF-Grid, but remote monitoring does NOT work OFF-Grid.
Remote monitoring will require a constant internet service.
I do not know first-hand but have been told that the remote monitoring with internet has a certain delay that may be annoying and significant. If you are OFF-Grid and do not have internet, you will not be able to use remote features on your phone or tablet or computer. An OFF-Grid system should not require internet! "This system lacks the ability to connect to your devices with blue-tooth or wireless ethernet." A possible solution is a third party add-on that may not provide all the features you would otherwise get through the normal internet connection. I found this (add-on) product will cost around $150 plus about $50 shipping (from another country) with an unspecified lead time.

Firmware Updates:
They tell you that you can update the system firmware Off-Grid, this is NOT "exactly" true.
Software and firmware updates require internet connection. If you are OFF-Grid and do not have internet you will not be able to update your firmware when updates are available. An OFF-Grid system should not require internet. "This system lacks the ability to connect to your devices with blue-tooth or wireless ethernet." The solution is the pay for an add-on device (a dongle, from the manufacturer) at a cost of about $200 more and get the firmware updates by email. If you live OFF-Grid (like me) you will need to drive into town to get an internet signal for your email to download the patch files that are required for the update though the ($200) dongle.

This system is really easy to install but the technical writers could have done a better job and added a little more details to the manual. However, to make any specific recommendation for that is not the purpose of this review.

The battery settings in the Sol-Ark inverter manual do not agree with the battery manufacturer's recommendations and I didn't discover this until I was 2 months into using the system and watched a few in-depth seminars (for installers) offered by the manufacturer of the batteries. This could have or may have "damaged my batteries" and reduced their capacity, but as an end user, I don't have a way to test that as I don't have access to the internal battery management system to verify. My batteries alone cost me almost $9,000.

The LED lights in the house sometimes flicker (slightly) at times, and particularly when an appliance with a motor is operating. I haven't seen a solution to fix that yet. Incandescent lamps are not a solution or work around either.

Overall, my rating for this system would be reduced to 2.5 out of 5 stars as evaluated FOR OFF-GRID ONLY in a TRUE OFF-Grid application.

Outpost 51 is completely off-grid in an Arizona desert.
We learn things.
We do things.
We're Made for This.
 
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Nice write up and great description of what it means to be off-gird. FWIW, seems like the evaluation of the 5K may be a bit unfair as it was obviously the result of having unrealistic expectations of a 5kW high frequency inverter. There are so many posts on this forum from experienced users encouraging people to conduct an Energy Audit before purchasing equipment. Perhaps this step was skipped or the sellers marketing info was relied on too much.
 
that you will have something like a well pump
Lots of people even with non Sol-Ark systems run into the well pump issue because they install well pumps that don't care about surge or how much power they use. Grundfos well pumps are well designed for off-grid with no surge.. So I'm not sure this is completely fair to blame Sol-Ark on that one.

An OFF-Grid system should not require internet.
This has been discussed many times here and there are people who have worked out how to monitor their system with no internet. You'd have to search here for the solutions. Worse issue is that even if you did have internet your data is sent to servers in China.
 
Nice write up and great description of what it means to be off-gird. FWIW, seems like the evaluation of the 5K may be a bit unfair as it was obviously the result of having unrealistic expectations of a 5kW high frequency inverter. There are so many posts on this forum from experienced users encouraging people to conduct an Energy Audit before purchasing equipment. Perhaps this step was skipped or the sellers marketing info was relied on too much.
House is a tiny home. 600sf..... typically load is 500W.... that's basically a refer and lights. with no load at all on the system it would not run a 1/2hp single phase pump. motor struggles to start and will not.....but starts to heat up after a couple short attempts. called the dealer and they verified that this system will have trouble with induction motors. the same pump runs fine and without issues with a small 1500 (2200W peak) generator that runs the house as described @ typical load.
 
Why try and run AC pumps with large surge ratings when you already have a very robust DC system?

Sounds typical of a lower cost high frequency inverter with minimal VA capability.

Now knowing what you know, what unit would you be looking at if you were to buy again?
 
Grundfos well pumps are well designed for off-grid with no surge.. So I'm not sure this is completely fair to blame Sol-Ark on that one.
I called both the dealer and Sol-Ark support on this issue... induction motors are an issue @ single phase. I just tool a quick look at a Grundfos and I will have to dig deeper to get the run and surge specs for the model that would be a good fit.
 
Who choose one of the smallest units in the range when using well pump etc.?
Not very well founded purchase, is it?
 
Why try and run AC pumps with large surge ratings when you already have a very robust DC system?

Sounds typical of a lower cost high frequency inverter with minimal VA capability.

Now knowing what you know, what unit would you be looking at if you were to buy again?
that's a fair question I don't have a good answer for yet. but my next door neighbor 1/2 mile away is getting ready to buy a system and he wants me to pick one out for him. I'm looking at 2 different vendors with almost identical package. (2)13Kw inverters, @10Kw(PV), @28Kw storage. I prefer to find something that either has an autotransformer included or I'll add one (Maybe Victron 100A). His setup has a deep well pump which seems to not have any real noticeable surge (and) with a (my) crappy generator from the chinese import store that I can't name here.... barely surges the generator. we still need to work out his final square footage to size up the system.
 
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The inverter isn't necessarily the issue it is the well pump itself. The Grundfos SQ5 for instance will only have about a 550W draw on startup. You would never know it kicked on. Although I use low-frequency inverters I had no issues with running well pump on a 3600W and 4000W even with other motors like a clothes washer running. Usually better to use efficient appliances then try and compensate by purchasing bigger less efficient systems to run it.
 
Who choose one of the smallest units in the range when using well pump etc.?
Not very well founded purchase, is it?
its actually a shallow (jet) well pump.... pulls 3-5 amps continuous, less than 12 amps surge. The Sol-ark was unable to run it at all- even with the circuit isolated.
 
The inverter isn't necessarily the issue it is the well pump itself. The Grundfos SQ5 for instance will only have about a 550W draw on startup. You would never know it kicked on. Although I use low-frequency inverters I had no issues with running well pump on a 3600W and 4000W even with other motors like a clothes washer running. Usually better to use efficient appliances then try and compensate by purchasing bigger less efficient systems to run it.
I haven't set up a clothes washer yet. Getting ready to build the water house and manifold system for the water tanks and the washer and pump will go in there. I can see that after this issue with the jet pump I will have to do a little more research on the washer. I have 2 mini split heat pumps (inverter technology) that I use when I need to and have no issues with those- they draw 500W-1500W depending on the setting. They treated me very well in both summer and this winter. I usually have them on low/economy (when I actually use one) and they are VERY efficient and run 500W-700W and I only need one or the other at a time.
 
You will provide your own water supply and septic system (But):
While the septic system will not require anything from your solar system, you may have a serious problem with water supply. For water supply, you can drill a well or collect water in other ways and store that water in a tank. You can gravity feed the water to the house but in most cases you will need to have a pump to supply pressure and have positive water for your water heater, shower, sinks, and appliances like a dishwasher and clothes washer.

The problem with motors:
An OFF-Grid system should be designed and/or include necessary equipment to provide adequate electrical power to "all" devices that you will typically use in your dwelling. This system falls "well short of that requirement" in and OFF-Grid application.

As wonderful as the Sol-Ark inverter is, it has a major shortcoming- and when installed in a true OFF-Grid environment is a "serious" problem. Due to it's "transformer-less" design, this inverter may, and usually does struggle and fail to start induction motors (especially 120V single phase). This will cause an overload fault with the inverter and/or overheat and possibly damage the motor that you're trying to start.

This is (usually) NOT a problem if you don't have any motors to use, but when you are OFF-Grid, it is guaranteed that you will have something like a well pump, a washing machine, or other device with a single-phase motor in it that you will need to use AND power it with your inverter as there is NO GRID POWER to operate these devices. Imagine living off the grid and not being able to run your washing machine? your dish washer? your well pump? Some motorized devices that only use (typically) 3-5 amps continuous to up to 15 amps start surge (@1800 watts) may not run on this system! Even though the system is capable of 5000 Watts! The solution ( that's NOT INCLUDED in the kit) is an add-on component that costs about $700 more.
Something is not right with your setup.

Just got done running a test of my $400 24v EAsun 3kw-U AIO just a moment ago to see if it would start and run my house water supply pump.
Test parameters. AIO is connected to a critical load panel via 12awg with a run of 20ft. From critical load panel is 12awg to an outlet nearest pump of about 15ft run. From the outlet I plug in a 25ft 12awg extension cord and routed it to the pumps plug in pig tail.

The pump is a 25 year old 1/2hp GE jet pump with a SFA of 10.6a. It cycles on at 30psi and back off at 50psi. It is fed from my rain water collection system. It supplies my home with pressurized water with a 30 gal tank for storage.

To start the test the AC in is turned off (thus off grid). Battery voltage is at 26.1vDC. Capacity of the batteries are 240ah when fully charged LiFePO4 So about 60%. Being as it is heavy fog this morning there is no PV available. I turned off all loads to the inverter with the exception of about 50w for a light (to see what I was doing). Ran water until the pump reached 30psi and it started. I noticed zero hesitation on the pump. Couple of minutes the pump ran up to 50psi and shut off. During the pump run I went back to the AIO and observed the battery voltage had drooped to 25.3vDC. After shutoff the voltage came back to 26.0vDC

So I must ask you following my successful test is how you have your SolARk setup. 5000w should easily run your pump unless there is a limitation caused by setup or the pump is a lot larger than mine.

ETA: BTW thanks for the inspiration to run the test. I have noticed when running the pump off my Honda 2800w inverter generator a fair amount of pump start hesitation. It will run it but is clearly close to limit.
 
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12a surge seems like half of what I would expect from a motor with a 4 or 5 amp continuous draw.
(120V single phase 1/2hp) given the slow update response of a digital ammeter, I also have an analog one. And although I've never needed the more expensive ones that can read the true peak surge I've been able to get a good idea with this one. also please note that the pump runs fine with both of my generators. The smaller generator is very sensitive to surges and the 15a breaker is fast to trip ( really ticks me off sometimes) but the pump runs fine on that too. I was told that an autotransformer will "fix" the problem but that's a $700 solution and (for sails info) it should be noted as necessary when using this system off-grid. It's a good thing I haven't purchased a washing machine yet. Still on the fence as to how I want to solve the "potential" for a problem with that one too. After the dealer was WRONG about being able to use remote monitoring and firmware updates off-grid when I made "specific" point of saying there was absolutely NO internet available ( and was never planned to be) I'm not sure how well I want to take their advice on a $700 transformer. And they also said that I need to buy better led lights for the flickering problem....so I now have 4 different brands of lights and they all flicker to some extent, even the incandescent- so it's NOT even the LED lights - the Analog will "shine the sign." For all these problems, I think I'd rather replace the inverter than continue to buy things like washers, dishwashers, waterpumps... that cost 2-3X just so they'll operate on a transformer-less system. And my neighbor that just moved in and is building a home is not going to be interested in that either. He's just shopping for a different brand and we'll be asking more challenging questions to the dealers. I'm no new to electricity, I'm just a little new to solar.
 
Something is not right with your setup.

Just got done running a test of my $400 24v EAsun 3kw-U AIO just a moment ago to see if it would start and run my house water supply pump.
Test parameters. AIO is connected to a critical load panel via 12awg with a run of 20ft. From critical load panel is 12awg to an outlet nearest pump of about 15ft run. From the outlet I plug in a 25ft 12awg extension cord and routed it to the pumps plug in pig tail.

The pump is a 25 year old 1/2hp GE jet pump with a SFA of 10.6a. It cycles on at 30psi and back off at 50psi. It is fed from my rain water collection system. It supplies my home with pressurized water with a 30 gal tank for storage.

To start the test the AC in is turned off (thus off grid). Battery voltage is at 26.1vDC. Capacity of the batteries are 240ah when fully charged LiFePO4 So about 60%. Being as it is heavy fog this morning there is no PV available. I turned off all loads to the inverter with the exception of about 50w for a light (to see what I was doing). Ran water until the pump reached 30psi and it started. I noticed zero hesitation on the pump. Couple of minutes the pump ran up to 50psi and shut off. During the pump run I went back to the AIO and observed the battery voltage had drooped to 25.3vDC. After shutoff the voltage came back to 26.0vDC

So I must ask you following my successful test is how you have your SolARk setup. 5000w should easily run your pump unless there is a limitation caused by setup or the pump is a lot larger than mine.

ETA: BTW thanks for the inspiration to run the test. I have noticed when running the pump off my Honda 2800w inverter generator a fair amount of pump start hesitation. It will run it but is clearly close to limit.
This inverter doesn't have a DC output. I'm working with a 120V single phase 1/2 (shallow well) jet pump. It works really well on both my generators.
 
This inverter doesn't have a DC output. I'm working with a 120V single phase 1/2 (shallow well) jet pump. It works really well on both my generators.
You failed to understand my post. My output is 120vAC from the inverter as is the pump (120/240). I asked you to describe your system. You either do so or not.

AIO Inverter is 3000w output 120vAC running off 24vDC.
 
Who choose one of the smallest units in the range when using well pump etc.?
Not very well founded purchase, is it?
We sized the system for a storage draw of 2 days for all appliances and up to 2 weeks for critical loads. (600s/f home). In this case (LOL) it's not the size of the tool, it's how it's being used. This inverter should not be expected to handle inductive motors and with that "known by the dealer" they should have included either their suggested "fix" for the problem in their suggested off-grid configuration, or at least noted that one would be required.
 
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(120V single phase 1/2hp) given the slow update response of a digital ammeter, I also have an analog one. And although I've never needed the more expensive ones that can read the true peak surge I've been able to get a good idea with this one. also please note that the pump runs fine with both of my generators. The smaller generator is very sensitive to surges and the 15a breaker is fast to trip ( really ticks me off sometimes) but the pump runs fine on that too. I was told that an autotransformer will "fix" the problem but that's a $700 solution and (for sails info) it should be noted as necessary when using this system off-grid. It's a good thing I haven't purchased a washing machine yet. Still on the fence as to how I want to solve the "potential" for a problem with that one too. After the dealer was WRONG about being able to use remote monitoring and firmware updates off-grid when I made "specific" point of saying there was absolutely NO internet available ( and was never planned to be) I'm not sure how well I want to take their advice on a $700 transformer. And they also said that I need to buy better led lights for the flickering problem....so I now have 4 different brands of lights and they all flicker to some extent, even the incandescent- so it's NOT even the LED lights - the Analog will "shine the sign." For all these problems, I think I'd rather replace the inverter than continue to buy things like washers, dishwashers, waterpumps... that cost 2-3X just so they'll operate on a transformer-less system. And my neighbor that just moved in and is building a home is not going to be interested in that either. He's just shopping for a different brand and we'll be asking more challenging questions to the dealers. I'm no new to electricity, I'm just a little new to solar.
I don't think an autotransformer is going to help much in this situation. Unless this is a split-phase inverter.
Maybe I missed that fact?
 
You failed to understand my post. My output is 120vAC from the inverter as is the pump (120/240). I asked you to describe your system. You either do so or not.

AIO Inverter is 3000w output 120vAC running off 24vDC.
The inverter is a Sol-Ark 5K
 
I don't think an autotransformer is going to help much in this situation. Unless this is a split-phase inverter.
Maybe I missed that fact?
yes it is a split phase inverter. and I am going to pick up a 240V pump today,
I'm sure it will work but I DO want to have a washing machine someday, and I didn't want to have to buy a $1500 one. LOL.
I was hoping to get a simple washing machine. And although load balancing is already NOT an issue, I don't want to end up with a new autotransformer and not solve the problem with "motors."
 
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