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Refer truck-RV convsrsion: how to power the AC?

Karelli

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Jul 5, 2021
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I'm converting a refer box truck into an rv and want to be able to run the ac unit, at least in short spurts, without needing the truck running to do so.

It has 2 compressors. One attached by belt to the engine and a second overhead that runs purely on 230vac.

If anyone has any experience in thermoking units and could tell me if I could swap the elec compressor motor above (no refrigerant lines run through it. Just a motor attached to a pully) with a 12 or 24vdc motor of equal rpm and pully size would it work just the same?

And either way would it be insane to power it via solar and batteries or even solar, batteries and inverter?

Any thoughts????
 
I'm converting a refer box truck into an rv and want to be able to run the ac unit, at least in short spurts, without needing the truck running to do so.

It has 2 compressors. One attached by belt to the engine and a second overhead that runs purely on 230vac.

If anyone has any experience in thermoking units and could tell me if I could swap the elec compressor motor above (no refrigerant lines run through it. Just a motor attached to a pully) with a 12 or 24vdc motor of equal rpm and pully size would it work just the same?

And either way would it be insane to power it via solar and batteries or even solar, batteries and inverter?

Any thoughts????
Look at the tag on the electric motor compressor and see how many amps it uses. I work on reefers on occasion, I can tell you it takes more horsepower than you might think. The fans alone are made to move a huge amount of air to the rear of the box. This takes hp and that translates to many watts.
 
Unfortunately the stickers have mostly all been sun bleached away. It is slightly older unit. 2003ish ... only sticker on the unit says
MODEL KIT CB 20 12V CON
B/M #914729
VOLTS 230 AMPS 00
PHASE 3 CYC 60
 
A cooler for a box truck will be a massive load… why do you want to use it in an rv conversion. The motor run unit would be for the cab AC, the 3phase would be for the refrigeration unit… no?

I’d like to see what you are planning.
 
Unfortunately the stickers have mostly all been sun bleached away. It is slightly older unit. 2003ish ... only sticker on the unit says
MODEL KIT CB 20

That is the model number, pretty dated.


Controls are 12V, I assume the compressor is belt driven and has a clutch, the clutch circuit is 12V.

B/M #914729
Submodel number

VOLTS 230 AMPS 00
PHASE 3 CYC 60
Take a look at the 3 phase electric motor plate. I would assume the amps required would be similar to this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/THERMO-KING-240V-20-8-AMP-AC-GENERATOR-3503479/254672039944

No way you're running that on solar mounted on the roof The purpose of the electric hookup is so the truck engine doesn't need to be run.
 
Right, just as I want to be able to do. With out the truck running. Now, 230vac can freeze the box unit if ran long enough. I just need ro keep it at a comfortable level. Is there any easy way to lower the output some or will I need to replace entirely? Would a 110v motor hooked to a generator be doable?
 
Right, just as I want to be able to do. With out the truck running. Now, 230vac can freeze the box unit if ran long enough. I just need ro keep it at a comfortable level. Is there any easy way to lower the output some or will I need to replace entirely? Would a 110v motor hooked to a generator be doable?
Reefers are designed to cool loads quickly and keep them cold. That takes power. The reason for the engine driven compressor and the large electric motor is the huge amount of btu's that need to be moved.

The motor already on there is 120V capable and draws 41.6 amps at that voltage. That's 5,000 watts. You will want a genny twice that size for initial surge at startup.

You might consider installing a mini split instead and you could use solar or small inverter generator to run it. Idling along most of the mini splits draw under 500 watts.
 
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