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Refrigerator for off-grid cabin

I have several old models which have lasted a long time, like 25 years.
If you can afford the watt-hours, I suggest picking up a cast off unit somebody has kicked to the curb.

If you are present, a temperature sensor wired to beeper could be the way to go. Electronic? Buy a spare thermostat for the freezer and wire it to buzzer?

This Hotpoint side by side was gifted to me already well used 20 years ago and I converted to all freezer a couple years ago:


Another, a top freezer from GE, I bought slightly used 25 years ago. Fridge has been getting up to 40F lately with compressor running 24 hours/day (except for defrost cycle.) It is R-12 so I won't be recharging. Maybe compressor is worn out. I pulled out floor of the freezer, replaced with a shelf, and it is now all-refrigerator and is maintaining 34F.

My Frigidaire upright freezer failed to cool well enough at around 15 years old. I recharged with R-134a and it is working again.
you can recharge R-12 appliances with propane/iso butane mixtures and they actually are just as efficient as the R-12 was. something to think about.
 
Yeah, thanks for reminding me. It did cross my mind a little while earlier.
There are probably reasons we have seen other synthetic alternatives (like DuPont's profits.)
A few are sold new with such refrigerant.
Possibly I can determine if the issue is pressure charge vs. worn compressor with temperature readings (without compromising the seal). Not my trade specialty, but I've read things. Actually, even with pressure you need temperature. Easier to evacuate and refill with measured charge.

Propane in refrigeration may be a modest fire hazard. If released in a short enough time to be a problem.
Flammable gas used in ozone-friendly foam is apparently a bigger issue. Apparently refrigerators are now the appliance most associated with home fires.


Insulation fire safety:



Of course, there's no substitute for Stupidity:

 
Yeah, thanks for reminding me. It did cross my mind a little while earlier.
There are probably reasons we have seen other synthetic alternatives (like DuPont's profits.)
A few are sold new with such refrigerant.
Possibly I can determine if the issue is pressure charge vs. worn compressor with temperature readings (without compromising the seal). Not my trade specialty, but I've read things. Actually, even with pressure you need temperature. Easier to evacuate and refill with measured charge.

Propane in refrigeration may be a modest fire hazard. If released in a short enough time to be a problem.
Flammable gas used in ozone-friendly foam is apparently a bigger issue. Apparently refrigerators are now the appliance most associated with home fires.


Insulation fire safety:



Of course, there's no substitute for Stupidity:

and people are concerned about My antics and Darwanism..... A friend of mine used the gas that comes in the air dusters to charge up his older car that needed R12. it took about 4 cans for the car from what I remember. the cans were plainly labeled on the side as flamable propane iso butane mix.
 
Great idea!

They don't come with proper fitting installed, but necessity is the mother of invention.

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Also doesn't plug up the expansion valve like using Silly String.

 
"People" ... meaning me?

(I was just hoping to encourage you to capture it on video ;) :devilish: )
 
Our off-grid cabin has had solar since 2017. Next spring I'm upgrading from 310Ah @ 24V AGM to 230Ah @ 24V LFP. Our original energy budget has proven to be very conservative, as I believe we almost never consume more than about 100Ah. The exception is hunting season, when a crowd of guys who are definitely not conserving energy crowd into the place for 4 days or so, and I don't think any size battery would be big enough for them. Good thing we have a generator.

We've had a propane refrigerator in the cabin since it was built in the 1970's. The current version (probably about 20 years old) has it's door seals failing, and we are getting tired of its inefficiency.

It appears that with the new battery we may be able to transition to an electric fridge. I'd probably prefer a 24VDC model, but if we need to leave the inverter on all the time I would just have to add in the tare losses in the inverter.

I've done some searches here looking for energy efficient refrigerators, but most seem to be in discussions about RVs or boats and so may be smaller or meant to meet requirements I don't have. We are hoping to find something over 10 cu ft (15 cu ft would be ideal), but I don't know exactly where to look. I know inverter refrigerators are much more efficient, but as far as I can tell they are mostly sold in Europe and Asia, but not here in the U.S. for some reason.

Anyone have some recommendations?
Sundanzer… the best.
 
yeah I am looking at panasonics inverter freezers here in japan. tired of playing the chinese game with appliances as they do not last.

We had a Sanyo fridge that was still working ( or fighting :LOL: ) after 31 years. We were sad to let it go but the freezer was failing and it was slowly leaking its refrigerant, so we decided to retire it this year.

We chose Panasonic among the myriad of brands as Panasonic bought the Sanyo brand.

We snapped a few farewell pictures of it :cry: and the "Atlanta 1996 Olympics" sticker was still visible. We bought it c. 1991.
 

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ha got you beat an old US made commercial stand up freezer from 1983 and still working like a champ. don't ask me how it got to japan, I think I am like the 8 or 9th owner... this is at the main house not the cabin.

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so funny thing is our power usage did not go up one iota when i replaced a 2010 made whirlpool with this beast. not one killowatt. some things are just brick shithouses and say screw you to all the rest of the BS. strangely enough.... I have a supply of R12 on hand if this beast goes down, its been way more reliable than anything else I have gotten my grubby little hands on. and to think it was a freebie from a departing expat.
 
funny thing is our power usage did not go up one iota when i replaced a 2010 made whirlpool with this beast. not one killowatt
People don’t realize how much insulation affects performance. That, and at some true point it takes “x” watts to make a certain amount of BTUs and modernizing as much as you want to ain’t going to change that.
Oh, the neighbor called and wondered if your electric bill had recently gone up by $30/month suddenly, too.
 
and at some true point it takes “x” watts to make a certain amount of BTUs and modernizing as much as you want to ain’t going to change that.
Since refrigeration involves moving heat, there are efficiencies to be had by inverter driven compressors and, as you mention, better insulatiom
 
there are efficiencies to be had by inverter driven compressors
Ya, I recognize that. I was just pointing out that in a practical sense the energy exchanged to make some given temperature of heat is somewhat inescapable.
 
While trying to debug inadequate cooling of fridge section of my top freezer, I hooked current transformer and DAS to power cord. (The setup was also supposed to read thermocouples for each fridge/freezer section and ambient, but having a problem that AC interferes with low signals so can't present that.)

AllFridge current consumption 082522.jpg

Compared to Kill-a-Watt, which measures total consumption and some other parameters, this data acquisition presents the on/off cycle times.
Data was acquired over the course of 24 hours (X-axis is just sample number, not converted to units of time.)
Two defrost cycles per day, not one, is a bit inconvenient when trying to use it on battery backup. But maybe not much consumption, not much ice. Doesn't see to register in the graph.

I had already removed partition between fridge and freezer, and had thermostat at lowest setting. The data shows compressor ran continuously, never achieving setpoint. Once every 12 hours it turns off for a 30 minute defrost cycle. (As soon as defrost thermostat on cooling coils rises to 40F, heater turns off.)

Temperature achieved in fridge section, according to glass thermometer (and water) is just below freezing on moderate weather days. I've since raised thermostat somewhat so it regulates to 35 degrees, so if I capture data again I'll see some "off" times.

What this tells me is the refrigerator is on its last legs, has to run virtually constantly to maintain refrigerator temperature. If we were to monitor a new fridge, should see a significant "off" time. As compressor wears (or refrigerant is lost), the "on" percentage would increase. You don't notice because temperature regulation is maintained. Once "on" time is 100%, temperature will cycle up and down with ambient; you'll notice milk isn't cold enough and food begins to spoil faster.

A monitor of on/off times would serve as an indicator of compressor health, warning of impending failure before loss of temperature regulation.

At this time, I have just the plastic top surface of partition installed as a flimsy shelf, need to reinforce that. About 2" gap front and rear allows fairly free air exchange. Ice tray with chilled air blown over it freezes somewhat. My goal is to stretch use of this unit for possibly a couple/few more years, as all fridge. Separate freezer also in kitchen.

In other news, the Hotpoint size-by-side turned into all-freezer is keeping things rock solid even located outside during a heat wave. "Garage Ready", I would say.

People don’t realize how much insulation affects performance.

Unlike my Frigidaire deep freeze (coils in the sidewall), the Hotpoint side by side has fan over coils on the bottom. After I manage to move its 200 lb. bulk to new location, I'll consider an inch of foam board on all sides.
 
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