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Refrigerator will not start upI

Joe-Joe#3

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I currently have a setup of 1 Bluetti AC300 and 4 Bluetti B300. My main refrigerator is s Samsung RF 261 MP. It is a 26 cf job and it will not start up with the Bluetti setup that I have. The fridge is connected by a 30' length of 10 guage AWG Romex. My other refrigerator is a Ge, 17 cf and it will not start up ether. When I connect the refrigerator, ether one of them, the batteries are fully charged and nothing else is attached. Please help
 
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I currently have a setup of 1 Bluetti AC300 and 4 Bluetti B300. My main refrigerator is s Samsung RF 261 MP. It is a 26 cf job and it will not start up with the Bluetti setup that I have. The fridge is connected by a 30' length of 10 guage AWG Romex. My other refrigerator is a Ge, 17 cf and it will not start up ether. When I connect the refrigerator, ether one of them, the batteries are fully charged and nothing else is attached. Please help
Need to know the specs of the fridge and the bluetti. There should be a sticker somewhere inside the fridge with power usage / amp draw...

Example. Mine is 7 amps, at 120v this would be 840 watts. I'm sure that doesn't factor in the compressor surge current, which I assume your bluetti can't handle...
 
Need to know the specs of the fridge and the bluetti. There should be a sticker somewhere inside the fridge with power usage / amp draw...

Example. Mine is 7 amps, at 120v this would be 840 watts. I'm sure that doesn't factor in the compressor surge current, which I assume your bluetti can't handle...
 
The BluettI specs are as I said: 1 each Bluetti AC300 and 4 each Bluetti b300. As for the refrigerator power ratings; The Samsung 26cf is 7.6 and The GE is 6.4. Both are 120v.
 
With my inverter, it helps to have a small load already running before I plug in the refrigerator. I plug in a fan and let it run, then plug in the refrigerator. The 7.5 amps is surge, normally it draws about 2 amps.
 
The BluettI specs are as I said: 1 each Bluetti AC300 and 4 each Bluetti b300. As for the refrigerator power ratings; The Samsung 26cf is 7.6 and The GE is 6.4. Both are 120v.
That would be the models of the Bluetti... The specs are in this link https://www.bluettipower.com/products/ac300-b300 the AC300 provides 3kw continuous output and 6kw surge which should actually both fridges simultaneously with no issues.
The BC300 are additional battery packs around 3kw each.

Have you tried plugging the fridge(s) into the etti directly?
You said they are connected with 30' 10awg romex, does this mean you made your own extension cord with a male and female end?
 
That would be the models of the Bluetti... The specs are in this link https://www.bluettipower.com/products/ac300-b300 the AC300 provides 3kw continuous output and 6kw surge which should actually both fridges simultaneously with no issues.
The BC300 are additional battery packs around 3kw each.

Have you tried plugging the fridge(s) into the etti directly?
You said they are connected with 30' 10awg romex, does this mean you made your own extension cord with a male and female end?
 
The Bluetti specs are as follows: 1 Bluetti AC300 = 4 B300 batteries, charged to 80%. The refrigeration units are as fillows:Samsung RF261 MP Start amps 7.2, run, 1.2 both at 117V. The Ge fridge is GE-GTH17DBC2RW, Start amps is 6.5, Run amp is .96. Chest freezer is Roper @ 1.2 start and .75 Run amps. A Frigidaire dehumidifier Run is 4.5 A and run is .75Amps. All is between 115 volts and 120 volts. Yes, I have tried 25" heavy duty commercial extension cord of 10 Guage AWG as well as a made by me 30' length of 10 AWG Romex for completed installation. The dehumidifier is portabls so it was tried pluggen directly into the AC 300. Running a small fan is a nice idea, except it must be run 24/365, kind of cold in the winter. Defeats the purpose of "time of use" savings. The ligs work fine, the washer and "gas" drier work fine, the home entertainment units work fine, the only thing that does not is "anything/everything" with a compressor.
 
That would be the models of the Bluetti... The specs are in this link https://www.bluettipower.com/products/ac300-b300 the AC300 provides 3kw continuous output and 6kw surge which should actually both fridges simultaneously with no issues.
The BC300 are additional battery packs around 3kw each.

Have you tried plugging the fridge(s) into the etti directly?
You said they are connected with 30' 10awg romex, does this mean you made your own extension cord with a male and female end?

I go with this. Maybe something like reverse polarity, ground fault or short. Or loose connection. In the cord.
 
the only thing that does not is "anything/everything" with a compressor.
Lose connection in the cord would do that.

I don't know if inverters can be half broken or either work or don't.

The video showed the machine has all kinds of settings. Maybe just maybe it has some limit set too low ?

This is a tough one.
 
I had lose connection to inverter from battery once and it was acting like that. 12 volt cig lighter plug in auto store junk but easy loads it worked, bigger ones no till I fixed it.

I give up I don't know.
 
I always have some kind of problem with the Samsung brand. Not so long ago I changed the TV and I’ll probably change the refrigerator as well. I have a Samsung RB33J3400WWW, right after the purchase I didn’t pay attention, but over time I noticed a creaking sound. I had no desire to disassemble it, so I went to this repair service. The technician measured the noise level and said that this’s usual for Samsung and I'm not the first one to complain about it. For me it was a big disappointment. Well, now it periodically cracks and it bothers me.
 
Did you ever find a solution to your problem?

I also have a similar Samsung 26cu/ft refrigerator and my 1000W Renogy shuts down with a Ground Fault error light while using an extension cord (necessary due to distance). I see I should be grounding the inverter to earth ground but haven't done it yet.

I have no problems running a much smaller refrigerator. Ungrounded inverter used there too but not with an extension cord.
 
Depending on how it wired maybe a capacitor on the AUX winding could help it make a little more torque to get rolling.
I'm no fridge expert but I don't think they use a start cap.

I wonder of dropping resistor in series with the fridge using the same kind relay as the compressor uses to limit the initial inrush of current before the compressor rolls might help.
Also I never tried that.....

Just thoughts

Here's a schematic of a cap start motor.
It would seem to imply Caps are used on fridges.
I don't know I never pulled mine out to look at it for one.

5447c6594c722cb9acac6b9a8bb54eed.jpg
 
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