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Regular wire crimper for MC4

Sean Steele

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I'm sorry if this is considered similar to the other question but that one was about dies.

Can I use my regular wire crimpers to crimp MC4 terminals? Pic of my crimpers attached.
 

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You could but the proper crimping tool for MC4 is pretty cheap ($15) and can be used for other connectors.

 
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I looked at the crimp dies I had available and while one of them looked similar, I decided to buy a real MC4 die that fit the ratcheting crimp tool that I already had. As expensive as the MC4 connectors are, I didn't want to take any chance that I would bungle the crimp with the wrong tool.
 
You could but the proper crimping tool for MC4 is pretty cheap ($15) and can be used for other connectors.
In my case, they are either not available or cost a premium because of location. I have to drive over an hour just to find a Harbor Freight or Home Depot.

I suppose, since I don't have the connectors either, I'll just order one of the "kits" that include the connectors, wrenches and the crimping tool and wait for a week to have it shipped.

I was just hoping that I could stick with the tool that I have.
 
The die I used came from Eclipse Tools. It fits the Pro'sKit ratcheting tool in the Lunar series.


Many of their tools can be found on Amazon, but the die wasn't on Amazon. I ordered it directly from the Eclipse Tools website.
 
Aside from being inexpensive the right crimping tool will make reliable crimps that are easy to insert in the plastic. The right tool for MC4's is the last thing I would scrimp on.
 
You could but the proper crimping tool for MC4 is pretty cheap ($15) and can be used for other connectors.
$15? Please point me to this magical product which I just can not see while trying to find MC4 crimper for 8AWG wire. Cause what I see is more like $300-400.
 
$15? Please point me to this magical product which I just can not see while trying to find MC4 crimper for 8AWG wire. Cause what I see is more like $300-400.
This post was for 10 AWG or smaller wire.

If you have an 8 AWG MC4 connector, more than likely it is actually an Amphenol H4 connector. Exact fit with an MC4 connector, except MC4s are only sold to 10 AWG, and H4s are sold to 8 AWG. The $300 to $400 price is what an H4 crimper is supposed to cost.

I actually had trouble finding any 8 AWG H4s for sale when I was looking.
 
This post was for 10 AWG or smaller wire.

If you have an 8 AWG MC4 connector, more than likely it is actually an Amphenol H4 connector. Exact fit with an MC4 connector, except MC4s are only sold to 10 AWG, and H4s are sold to 8 AWG. The $300 to $400 price is what an H4 crimper is supposed to cost.

I actually had trouble finding any 8 AWG H4s for sale when I was looking.
Well I am just looking to crimp some MC4-like connectors to 8AWG wire.
In my situation 10AWG would be a bit too much of voltage losses. I'll have just one 22.4V VOC pannel (I am going to have two of them connected in series actually, but those are portable design and there will be situations when only one will be used, so counting for a lesser voltage), 7.59A ISC. Wire length should be 30m, which gives me like 6.5% voltage drop, which is too much. Honestly, it's just such a pain: there is 8AWG wire for sale, even pre-assembled with connectors, but there are no crimpers if you want to crimp by yourself.
Wait, I forgot, there are, but they cost more than my pannels.
I guess I'll just go with pre-assembled, but still, I wasn't able to find them in 8AWG tinned copper of such length, so I'll need to buy a few chuncks to make 30m length. The downside is more connections obviously, which are the weak points. And there are also other circumstances which make this solution not ideal.
The crimper would make things so much easier, but I just won't have much use for it, $300 definitely not worth it for me.
Chinese manufacturers, please make it happen for 8AWG!
 
I used a butt splice, folded the 10 AWG wire in half to make it twice as thick, and used a 50’ run of 6 AWG. Repeated the same on the other end.
 
I used a butt splice, folded the 10 AWG wire in half to make it twice as thick, and used a 50’ run of 6 AWG. Repeated the same on the other end.
But what about weather/water proof thing? You're covering butt splice with a piece of heat shrink, which probably won't offer same level of protection as PV wire jacket, right? Though I guess in real-world that's not a big deal. But any ideas for how to provide an additional proteciton?
 
But what about weather/water proof thing? You're covering butt splice with a piece of heat shrink, which probably won't offer same level of protection as PV wire jacket, right? Though I guess in real-world that's not a big deal. But any ideas for how to provide an additional proteciton?
I did use two pieces of heat shrink for weather protection. Both were the kind with the glue on the inside to keep moisture out.

This is the write up I got it from https://diysolarforum.com/threads/how-to-joining-different-gauge-wires.12190/
 
Another option is a 6 AWG to 10 AWG reducer. One with the 10 AWG as a pin may fit. There are also 6 AWG to 10 AWG reducers where the correct size wire is inserted into each end and crimped.
 
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