Reliable WZRELB inverters

[Delmar]

Those are sooo tempting because of the low price. Joeham and Craig – you both reported owning them.

I almost pulled the trigger but was spooked by YouTube videos about the output, so instead bought the LF ancient UPS. I back-feed my breaker panel so the inverter neutral is bonded. Actually B- is bonded too. The UPSverter seems perfectly happy with all the bondage.

My understanding is the WZRELB output is 120V line-neutral, however is 60V line-ground and 60V neutral-ground. Bonding the neutral would short and destroy the inverter. Can yall measure how your output voltage is configured?

 

[Delmar]

Another random thought. Assuming my understanding of the output is correct, if you bought a 240V WZRELB would that make a poor man's split-phase inverter?!? 240V line-line and two 120V line-ground. Both lines would have to be really balanced.

 

[JoeHam]

OK @Delmar I just looked at both of my inverters. You may recall they are both 48vdc to 120vac.

One is 3kw, the other 1.5kw.

Neither one had any voltage from either leg to ground.

 

[Delmar]

What?!? The internet is never wrong! Reference video, must be hit or miss:

 

[Craig]

I will try and test this afternoon.

 

[JoeHam]

I think Dave Poz had a similar reading and he was told that it’s simply a “surface charge” and disappears when you put a load on. Since I don’t have that issue to start with I cannot comment.

In the vid you posted that person has a second one without the issue. YMMV.

 

[Delmar]

OK @Delmar I just looked at both of my inverters. You may recall they are both 48vdc to 120vac. One is 3kw, the other 1.5kw. Neither one had any voltage from either leg to ground.

Are the neutrals of both inverters bonded to ground? I am about to place an order for a 3000w 48vdc to 120vac unit and need to confirm first.

My beloved APC UPSverter did not tolerate high battery voltage while charging from my solar panels. RIP.

 

[Delmar]

I recently purchased and tested a Reliable 2500W 48V inverter with my house breaker panel. The Reliable manual states “if the house neutral is combined with the ground, connect the black wire with it. Do not connect the inverter yellow wire (ground) with the black wire (neutral).”

For this test I made no modifications to the inverter internal ground wire. However I connected a neutral inline 5A fuse in the event of a 60V short. Wired all three leads to my house breaker panel effectively bonding the inverter neutral and grounding the case. Worked just fine, no smoke and did not blow the 5A fuse. This totally contradicts the manual.

Disconnected the inverter from the panel and tested with nothing connected to the AC output: confirmed the floating 60V hot-ground and 60V neutral-ground.

 

[Delmar]

My local plant is load sharing due to Hurricane Laura taking out a power plant in east Texas. Tonight had a 3-hour rolling blackout and my 1st true test of the Reliable 2500W inverter. No problems whatsoever running multiple lights, ceiling fans and my refrigerator. Loaded between 500W-1000W and the fan only ran 25% of the time with a 93F ambient. With the low loading the efficiency was around 93%, way better than my previous UPSverter. So far am very pleased with the Reliable.

 

[snoobler]

I had the 24V/2kW version. It had shite surge, but it could run a microwave. Worked for us for several months before we got the 48V goodies online.

 

[Delmar]

I had the 24V/2kW version. It had shite surge, but it could run a microwave.

We ran everything required but did not try the microwave. Figured it would be a large load and during an extended grid-down overly reduce battery runtime.

 

[mattleonard]

I have one of their 24v 3kw pure sine wave units. I haven't pushed it - but it's worked reliably for me. The only issue (which seems many people have) is their cheapo volt-meter is poorly attached. It has fallen inside the unit (something I could fix with a little glue), but.. I don't really need/rely on their meter anyway.

 

[JoeHam]

We ran everything required but did not try the microwave. Figured it would be a large load and during an extended grid-down overly reduce battery runtime.

I have pushed the crap out of my 48v 3kw WZRELB faulting it many times.

It always protects itself and keeps on going.

This summer I have used it to run two 3/4 HP 120v motors which lift a 9000 lb boat. This setup routinely chokes out a 2.8kw inverter generator.

After misusing this thing for 5 years running I have no complaints. However, I am switching to a UL listed unit for permanent installation in my home. YMMV.

 

[Delmar]

The Reliable inverter did manage to start my 1/2 hp garbage disposal, but it took a good second while all the lights in the house dimmed. My 2700W UPSverter would start it like it was on grid power.

 

[archive_one]

In the WZRELB's tagline, the word "Reliable" is attached. And, surprisingly, WZRELB power inverters are more reliable than others in the same price range. One thing more, if you managed to buy a 24V WZRELB power inverter then it will be more reliable than the 12V models.

And coming to the main question about the 120V output, I do not see much difference in 110V and 120V. Also, I do not know if the 120V output power is divided equally in two parts (positive and negative).