Renogy 40a mppt Li settings

SunnyNorth

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Sep 10, 2022
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My first post, so a big thanks for those in this forum. Been reading for some time and watching a lot of Will's videos which have been very helpful. Now I have a question which I cannot find much about. I recently upgraded my batteries at my cabin to Lifepo4 and started using the Li settings on my Renogy 40a MPPT charge controller. Batteries are placed in an insulated basement that has never gone below 2 degrees Celcius. I am confused to why Renogy would set the return voltage to 13.2v. Most charts show 13.2v on a lifepo4 battery to be 70% full??? In the few weeks I have been using that setting I have noticed it will go into boost everyday and stay there most of the day it seems. Boost is set to 14.4v which seems rather high considering full voltage is around 13.4v-13.6v. I have 4 Chins 100ah batteries in parallel hooked up to a 2000w inverter so I am considering using USER settings on the controller to bring that voltage up to around 13.4v to get to a full battery. Found online others using user settings using the Epever controller as follows:

Over voltage disconnect 14.8v
charge limit 14.6v
over voltage reconnect 14.6v
equalize 14.2v
boost 14.2v
float 13.6v
boost rec 13.2v
low volt rec 12.8v
under volt rect 12.2v
under volt warn 12.0v
low volt disc 11.1v
discharge limit 11.0v
equalize time 0min
boost time 60min

Does these sound reasonable so as not to damage my batteries? Any concerns of any settings please comment.
 

Dynoman

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Dec 17, 2020
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172
Location
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My first post, so a big thanks for those in this forum. Been reading for some time and watching a lot of Will's videos which have been very helpful. Now I have a question which I cannot find much about. I recently upgraded my batteries at my cabin to Lifepo4 and started using the Li settings on my Renogy 40a MPPT charge controller. Batteries are placed in an insulated basement that has never gone below 2 degrees Celcius. I am confused to why Renogy would set the return voltage to 13.2v. Most charts show 13.2v on a lifepo4 battery to be 70% full??? In the few weeks I have been using that setting I have noticed it will go into boost everyday and stay there most of the day it seems. Boost is set to 14.4v which seems rather high considering full voltage is around 13.4v-13.6v. I have 4 Chins 100ah batteries in parallel hooked up to a 2000w inverter so I am considering using USER settings on the controller to bring that voltage up to around 13.4v to get to a full battery. Found online others using user settings using the Epever controller as follows:

Over voltage disconnect 14.8v
charge limit 14.6v
over voltage reconnect 14.6v
equalize 14.2v
boost 14.2v
float 13.6v
boost rec 13.2v
low volt rec 12.8v
under volt rect 12.2v
under volt warn 12.0v
low volt disc 11.1v
discharge limit 11.0v
equalize time 0min
boost time 60min

Does these sound reasonable so as not to damage my batteries? Any concerns of any settings please comment.

Welcome to the forum!

According to Chins website the specifications are as follows for 1 battery. Some of the values will be different since I assume there are 4 cells in parallel?
Rated Capacity (0.2C): 100Ah / 1280Wh
Cycle life: 2000+ cycles at 80% discharge depth
Rated voltage: 12.8V
Charge voltage: 14.2 - 14.4V
Depth of Discharge (DoD): 100%
Standard charge current: 20A
Charging time: Approximately 6 hours
Max continuous charge current: 50A
Max continuous discharge current: 100A
Peak discharge current: 300A (Duration: less than 5 seconds)
Operating temperatures: Charge 0°C~50°C(32°F~122°F),
Discharge -20°C~60°C(-4°F~140°F), Storage -10~35℃(14℉~95℉)
Impedance: ≤ 10mΩ

14.4v is on the high side for charging your cells. 14.2v would be a safer boost voltage although I use 14.0 because the Renogy Rover I have can read at least 0.1 volt low. Renogy Rover's are know to read voltage low.

Do you have the Renogy Rover 40 amp Mppt Solar Charge Controller?

If you have the Renogy Rover 40 amp Mppt Solar Charge Controller, the LI settings are to aggressive for Lifepo4 Batteries.
Here are the settings used on my Renogy Rover 40 amp
Set to USR & set:
High Voltage Disconnect 14.5v
Charge Limit Voltage14.1v
Equalization Charge Voltage 14.0v
Boost Charge Voltage 14.0v
Float Charge Volt 13.6v
Boost Char Return Volt 13.3v
Over Disc Return Volt 11.0v
Low voltage Alarm 10.9v
Over Discharge Volt 10.5v
Discharge Limit Volt 10v
Over Disc Delay Time 5s
Equalization Charge Time 0 Min
Boost Time 10 Min
Equalize Charge Interval 185 (Note this value cannot be 0 because controller will get stuck in boost mode)
Temp Comp 0A

Unplug temp sensor from the Renogy 40 amp Solar Charge Controller. It is for lead acid and not Lifepo4.

These settings should get you started. You can adjust from there.

I use the Renogy BT-1 Bluetooth Module that plugs in the Rover 40 Rs232 port.
www.amazon.com/Renogy-Bluetooth-Module-Communication-Controllers/dp/B0894SDTSL

With that Module I use the Renogy BT App loaded on my phone to program the settings and monitor the Rover 40 and is free.



I hope this helps.
 
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SunnyNorth

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Sep 10, 2022
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Welcome to the forum!

According to Chins website the specifications are as follows for 1 battery. Some of the values will be different since I assume there are 4 cells in parallel?
Rated Capacity (0.2C): 100Ah / 1280Wh
Cycle life: 2000+ cycles at 80% discharge depth
Rated voltage: 12.8V
Charge voltage: 14.2 - 14.4V
Depth of Discharge (DoD): 100%
Standard charge current: 20A
Charging time: Approximately 6 hours
Max continuous charge current: 50A
Max continuous discharge current: 100A
Peak discharge current: 300A (Duration: less than 5 seconds)
Operating temperatures: Charge 0°C~50°C(32°F~122°F),
Discharge -20°C~60°C(-4°F~140°F), Storage -10~35℃(14℉~95℉)
Impedance: ≤ 10mΩ

14.4v is on the high side for charging your cells. 14.2v would be a safer boost voltage although I use 14.0 because the Renogy Rover I have can read at least 0.1 volt low. Renogy Rover's are know to read voltage low.

Do you have the Renogy Rover 40 amp Mppt Solar Charge Controller?

If you have the Renogy Rover 40 amp Mppt Solar Charge Controller, the LI settings are to aggressive for Lifepo4 Batteries.
Here are the settings used on my Renogy Rover 40 amp
Set to USR & set:
High Voltage Disconnect 14.5v
Charge Limit Voltage14.1v
Equalization Charge Voltage 14.0v
Boost Charge Voltage 14.0v
Float Charge Volt 13.6v
Boost Char Return Volt 13.3v
Over Disc Return Volt 11.0v
Low voltage Alarm 10.9v
Over Discharge Volt 10.5v
Discharge Limit Volt 10v
Over Disc Delay Time 5s
Equalization Charge Time 0 Min
Boost Time 10 Min
Equalize Charge Interval 185 (Note this value cannot be 0 because controller will get stuck in boost mode)
Temp Comp 0A

Unplug temp sensor from the Renogy 40 amp Solar Charge Controller. It is for lead acid and not Lifepo4.

These settings should get you started. You can adjust from there.

I use the Renogy BT-1 Bluetooth Module that plugs in the Rover 40 Rs232 port.
www.amazon.com/Renogy-Bluetooth-Module-Communication-Controllers/dp/B0894SDTSL

With that Module I use the Renogy BT App loaded on my phone to program the settings and monitor the Rover 40 and is free.



I hope this helps.
I do use the Renogy Rover MPPT LI 40 Amp charge controller, I have tried using the Renogy BT app but I can only change some settings in "USER", many are desensitized and cannot be changed even with the password. I can change boost charge voltage but if I bring that down .2v my boost charge return voltage also drops .2v. I tried switching to the DC home app but can't really change much on that.
 

Dynoman

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Messages
172
Location
Michigan
I do use the Renogy Rover MPPT LI 40 Amp charge controller, I have tried using the Renogy BT app but I can only change some settings in "USER", many are desensitized and cannot be changed even with the password. I can change boost charge voltage but if I bring that down .2v my boost charge return voltage also drops .2v. I tried switching to the DC home app but can't really change much on that.

Attached are the Manuals for Renogy Rover 40 amp solar charge controller and the Renogy BT app. First look at the manual for the Renogy BT App. Verify the Renogy BT app is in use. There are other Renogy apps that do not work the same as you mentioned the Renogy DC Home.

The parameters that were listed in the previous message should all be able to be modified.

To program the Rover 40 with the Renogy BT app select Settings at bottom of the screen. Once in Settings ensure Battery button is selected (not Load) & click the Read button to display the current Rover settings. Next click the Set button and then click Confirm and input default password which should be 135790123 and click Confirm. Now change the desired settings and then click the Set button. The changes should now be made. Check the settings were changed by clicking the Read button.

If still not able to program all the settings of the Rover 40 using the Renogy BT app, try Restore the Rover 40 to Factory Settings by clicking the Info button at the bottom of the screen in the Renogy BT app and then click Restore to Factory Default.

Another item to try is remove all Renogy apps from your phone and install only the Renogy BT app. Reboot the phone before reloading the Renogy BT app.

Hope this helps...
 

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SunnyNorth

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On the DC Home app I was able to change the boost voltage to 14v, equalize down to 14v and float to 13.3v. I left float at 13.3v since on the chart it indicates 90% which is good for me as I do not like to run things at 100% on an ongoing basis. I was able to change boost time but was limited to 10-300 minutes, so I dropped it down to 10 since I don't even see why a boost is necessary with Lifepo4 batteries, there is no desulfation purpose for these batteries. There was 2 other items I could change but now can't remember until I go back to the cabin. On a side note, when I did have the BT app and DC home app on my phone at once there were issues connecting to the Bluetooth module, I took the BT App off and now connect every time with the DC Home app. There was a guy on the dc home app who said 13.2v is a good voltage because it would make the batteries last longer and instead of raising the voltage to get more out of them he suggested getting more batteries. I have CHINS lifepo4 and they only recommend putting 4 in parallel so that's what I did. I'm satisfied if I get 2 years out of them, I'll be 55 my birthday so how long am I expecting to live anyway. Plus adding more now or this is a wash. I'll get a screen shot next time I connect at the cabin and post them.
 

Dynoman

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Messages
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Location
Michigan
On the DC Home app I was able to change the boost voltage to 14v, equalize down to 14v and float to 13.3v. I left float at 13.3v since on the chart it indicates 90% which is good for me as I do not like to run things at 100% on an ongoing basis. I was able to change boost time but was limited to 10-300 minutes, so I dropped it down to 10 since I don't even see why a boost is necessary with Lifepo4 batteries, there is no desulfation purpose for these batteries. There was 2 other items I could change but now can't remember until I go back to the cabin. On a side note, when I did have the BT app and DC home app on my phone at once there were issues connecting to the Bluetooth module, I took the BT App off and now connect every time with the DC Home app. There was a guy on the dc home app who said 13.2v is a good voltage because it would make the batteries last longer and instead of raising the voltage to get more out of them he suggested getting more batteries. I have CHINS lifepo4 and they only recommend putting 4 in parallel so that's what I did. I'm satisfied if I get 2 years out of them, I'll be 55 my birthday so how long am I expecting to live anyway. Plus adding more now or this is a wash. I'll get a screen shot next time I connect at the cabin and post them.

I am glad it is working with the Renogy DC Home app. That is really what matters. If you find down the road the Renogy Rover 40 is not programing or operating properly try what was suggested in message #2 & #4. The Renogy BT app is working well with my system using a Rover 40 & 100 for several years now.

Some on the forum have suggested the DC Home app would not allow all the parameters on the Rover 40 to be programmed. I have not used the DC Home app so don't know about its operation. Possibly the DC Home app has been updated and working properly with the Rover 40.
 

Nevadablue

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Sep 3, 2022
Messages
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This is the info that Chins sent me last Tuesday for the same setup.

Message from seller CHINS-US:
Dear Customer,
Thank you very much for your purchase.
The setting method of MPPT and inverter of 12.8V lithium iron phosphate
battery pack is as follows:
Charging
Charging Limit Voltage: 14.2V
Over Voltage Disconnect Voltage: 14.6V
Over Voltage Reconnect Voltage: 13.8V
Float Charging Voltage: 13.8V
Discharging
Low Voltage Disconnect Voltage: 11.6V
Low Voltage Reconnect Voltage: 12.4V
Under Voltage Warning Voltage: 12.8V
 

hclarkx

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Messages
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Location
Granite Bay, CA
Charging to less than the battery manufacturer's recommended voltage is a bit risky unless you know the balancing parameters for the BMS. Some BMS do most or all of the balancing at a voltage not much below the recommended minimum bulk/boost voltage. With these, charging to less than the recommended minimum can lead to unbalance. Ideally one can monitor balance and takes steps if balance isn't in a reasonable range. If cell voltages are not available, it's best to charge to a higher voltage (14.3 or 14.4) to ensure sufficient balancing.
 

SunnyNorth

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I am glad it is working with the Renogy DC Home app. That is really what matters. If you find down the road the Renogy Rover 40 is not programing or operating properly try what was suggested in message #2 & #4. The Renogy BT app is working well with my system using a Rover 40 & 100 for several years now.

Some on the forum have suggested the DC Home app would not allow all the parameters on the Rover 40 to be programmed. I have not used the DC Home app so don't know about its operation. Possibly the DC Home app has been updated and working properly with the Rover 40.
That should've said I'd be happy to get 10 years out of them. Going to the cabin today so I'll get back to you guys on Sunday evening or Monday morning.
 

SunnyNorth

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Charging to less than the battery manufacturer's recommended voltage is a bit risky unless you know the balancing parameters for the BMS. Some BMS do most or all of the balancing at a voltage not much below the recommended minimum bulk/boost voltage. With these, charging to less than the recommended minimum can lead to unbalance. Ideally one can monitor balance and takes steps if balance isn't in a reasonable range. If cell voltages are not available, it's best to charge to a higher voltage (14.3 or 14.4) to ensure sufficient balancing.
I should know if this is the case in a few days and if the batteries don't seem to be getting full I'll change to the 14.2v as the other guys states was sent to him straight from CHINs. I appreciate all the input and as an Electronic Engineering tech all input is valuable.
 

Dynoman

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Location
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I should know if this is the case in a few days and if the batteries don't seem to be getting full I'll change to the 14.2v as the other guys states was sent to him straight from CHINs. I appreciate all the input and as an Electronic Engineering tech all input is valuable.

Yes, 14.2v would be good, but probably not much higher because the BMS in the battery(s) could shut down the battery(s) from over-voltage. 14.0 volts was suggested because the Renogy Rover 40 amp solar charge controller is known to be under voltage by 0.1 to 0.2 volts which would really give 14.1 to 14.2 volts boost mode when the Rover 40 is set for 14.0 volts. If the Rover 40 boost is set to 14.2 it is probably a good idea to check the voltage on the battery terminals with a good multimeter when the Rover 40 is in boost mode and adjust the boost voltage accordingly.
 

SunnyNorth

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Yes, 14.2v would be good, but probably not much higher because the BMS in the battery(s) could shut down the battery(s) from over-voltage. 14.0 volts was suggested because the Renogy Rover 40 amp solar charge controller is known to be under voltage by 0.1 to 0.2 volts which would really give 14.1 to 14.2 volts boost mode when the Rover 40 is set for 14.0 volts. If the Rover 40 boost is set to 14.2 it is probably a good idea to check the voltage on the battery terminals with a good multimeter when the Rover 40 is in boost mode and adjust the boost voltage accordingly.
Back again, so I've uploaded the lithium settings from the DC Home app and then I changed to the User settings and setup as shown. Wasn't a great weekend for solar as we had a lot of cloud and rainy days. I did get enough this morning to top up my batteries. I found one thing interesting when the Renogy Monitor showed my batteries down to around 75% the Renogy 40a MPPT Controller showed the battery bank at 96%....so that's odd. Interesting that on the Lithium settings there is an extra line at the which shows Charging Amps 40A. Also not sure why they have Float same as Boost and Equalization???

That's a good Idea checking the voltage when the controller is in boost mode.

Also spent time at my friend's cabin, he has a 30a PWM controller and so he has 2 x 6v batteries and 4 x 12v batteries. So we put the two 6v's in series and then paralled them with the 4 x 12v....he seems happy with that and his system appears to working fine. Just not sure about that old PWM controller. Not many adjustable settings, and then there is these A01 to A99 settings which we are unsure of what they do....he doesn't have a manual and bought this off someone, better than the 8A coleman controller he had there (looks and feels like a toy).
 

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Dynoman

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Back again, so I've uploaded the lithium settings from the DC Home app and then I changed to the User settings and setup as shown. Wasn't a great weekend for solar as we had a lot of cloud and rainy days. I did get enough this morning to top up my batteries. I found one thing interesting when the Renogy Monitor showed my batteries down to around 75% the Renogy 40a MPPT Controller showed the battery bank at 96%....so that's odd. Interesting that on the Lithium settings there is an extra line at the which shows Charging Amps 40A. Also not sure why they have Float same as Boost and Equalization???

That's a good Idea checking the voltage when the controller is in boost mode.

Also spent time at my friend's cabin, he has a 30a PWM controller and so he has 2 x 6v batteries and 4 x 12v batteries. So we put the two 6v's in series and then paralled them with the 4 x 12v....he seems happy with that and his system appears to working fine. Just not sure about that old PWM controller. Not many adjustable settings, and then there is these A01 to A99 settings which we are unsure of what they do....he doesn't have a manual and bought this off someone, better than the 8A coleman controller he had there (looks and feels like a toy).

The battery gauge on the Renogy Rover 40amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller uses voltage and is totally inaccurate and should be ignored. The Renogy battery monitor should be fairly accurate as long as it has been synchronized to 100% when the batteries are fully charged.

Looking at your screen shot, some of the Rover 40 settings look OK.

A few look a little off:
Low Voltage Reconnect is on the high side at 12.8v (12.4v or less should function better)
Low Voltage Disconnect 11.8V (11.6v or less should function better)

Looking at your screen shot. It appears that a number of the Rover 40 settings are not accessible with the Renogy DC Home app. If you find down the road the Renogy Rover 40 is not operating properly try what was suggested in message #2 & #4. The Renogy BT app is working well with my system using a Rover 40 & 100 for several years now.
 

SunnyNorth

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Revisiting the Renogy BT app is on my to do list after I've exhausted my efforts with the DC Home App (which I'm close to). I will adjust the LVR and LVD next time I visit the cabin. Uploaded a pic of the Renogy Monitor when the Renogy MPPT controller was showing 96%....I agree, the monitor is more accurate since the pic was snapped in the morning after running a fridge all night/plus occasional water pump/I was charging some 20v tool batteries overnight and phantom power draws from anything else plugged in. Also included a pic of my setup just for folks entertainment. That's the Shunt between the inverter and the controller, I also have a breaker on the solar input so that I can disconnect any time I need to work on something....its a pain getting the wires to attach to the MPPT controller (IMO this is the weak part in that controller).

Note: I've come to the conclusion or opinion that Renogy's Lithium settings are like they are because they assume everyone is using Renogy lithium batteries in the system. As Nevadablue points out in the message straight from CHINS, the settings are different for their batteries.

Got some great ideas here the last week and I've adjusted to incorporate the settings suggested. I've had the temp sensor removed right from the start. Thanks for all the input.

hclarkx makes a good point but like Dynoman states the MPPT Renogy Controller is notoriously out in its voltages so I would be willing to go to 14.3v to ensure sufficient balancing but not higher.
 

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Dynoman

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Revisiting the Renogy BT app is on my to do list after I've exhausted my efforts with the DC Home App (which I'm close to). I will adjust the LVR and LVD next time I visit the cabin. Uploaded a pic of the Renogy Monitor when the Renogy MPPT controller was showing 96%....I agree, the monitor is more accurate since the pic was snapped in the morning after running a fridge all night/plus occasional water pump/I was charging some 20v tool batteries overnight and phantom power draws from anything else plugged in. Also included a pic of my setup just for folks entertainment. That's the Shunt between the inverter and the controller, I also have a breaker on the solar input so that I can disconnect any time I need to work on something....its a pain getting the wires to attach to the MPPT controller (IMO this is the weak part in that controller).

Note: I've come to the conclusion or opinion that Renogy's Lithium settings are like they are because they assume everyone is using Renogy lithium batteries in the system. As Nevadablue points out in the message straight from CHINS, the settings are different for their batteries.

Got some great ideas here the last week and I've adjusted to incorporate the settings suggested. I've had the temp sensor removed right from the start. Thanks for all the input.

hclarkx makes a good point but like Dynoman states the MPPT Renogy Controller is notoriously out in its voltages so I would be willing to go to 14.3v to ensure sufficient balancing but not higher.

In general the equipment pictured is good and the 4 x 100amp 12v Chins batteries should be enough for the 2000 watt inverter.

There are some serious concerns:

A fuse between the inverter and the battery on the positive cable is really a must. A T-fuse is usually recommended for Lifepo4 batteries.
A 200 amp should be sufficient for inverter. (2000w / 12v = 167 amps).

Also an inverter disconnect switch on the same positive cable between the inverter and the battery.

A fuse between the Rover 40 and the battery on the positive cable. An ANL fuse is good.

Same disconnect switch on the positive cable between the Rover 40 and the battery.

A breaker could be used instead of the ANL fuse and disconnect switch on the positive cable between the Rover 40 and the battery.
Need to use good quality breaker like this one from Blue Seas.

The fuses/breaker are a must to protect the system & cabin. The disconnect switch(s) will come in handy and if there is a problem to quickly disconnect.

What gauge wire is used for the batteries and between the inverter and battery?

I assume a 20amp breaker is on the 120 VAC output of the inverter?

Looks like the LOAD output from the Rover 40 is in use? If so a 20 amp ANL fuse is needed on the positive wire.
 
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SunnyNorth

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In general the equipment pictured is good and the 4 x 100amp 12v Chins batteries should be enough for the 2000 watt inverter.

There are some serious concerns:

A fuse between the inverter and the battery on the positive cable is really a must. A T-fuse is usually recommended for Lifepo4 batteries.
A 200 amp should be sufficient for inverter. (2000w / 12v = 167 amps).

Also an inverter disconnect switch on the same positive cable between the inverter and the battery.

A fuse between the Rover 40 and the battery on the positive cable. An ANL fuse is good.

Same disconnect switch on the positive cable between the Rover 40 and the battery.

A breaker could be used instead of the ANL fuse and disconnect switch on the positive cable between the Rover 40 and the battery.
Need to use good quality breaker like this one from Blue Seas.

The fuses/breaker are a must to protect the system & cabin. The disconnect switch(s) will come in handy and if there is a problem to quickly disconnect.

What gauge wire is used for the batteries and between the inverter and battery?

I assume a 20amp breaker is on the 120 VAC output of the inverter?

Looks like the LOAD output from the Rover 40 is in use? If so a 20 amp ANL fuse is needed on the positive wire.
Your going all Will Prowse on me with the fuses lol, I know they make things safer I just haven't gotten around to it. There is a lot of fail safe built into the inverter and controller too but I intend to get around to these eventually.

The 200 amp T-fuse brings up a question, WRT the batteries which can output 100 amp max but 200 amp for 5s, per the bms. When I combined the batteries in parallel will that max add up or stay the same? Somehow I believe they'll stay the same since CHINS recommends only combining 4 batteries in parallel. The BMS's must recognize this...I could be wrong. That Go power T Fuse on Amazon.ca is $139.99 I may look for something a bit cheaper....maybe blue sea has one.

The inverter runs to a good house hold panel and is hooked to a 30amp breaker. The cabin and panel was all wired by a certified electrician. I don't use anything remotely that large in my cabin, mainly lights, fan in the bathroom, tv, dvd etc. I have a toaster but it runs at 700w so I don't like using it and usually only do when I turn on my generator (4000w). Same as my Keurig, which sucks the life out of batteries...but I love my coffee so the french press will have to do or instant which is at the bottom of the list for coffee.

8 AWG wire goes from the controller to the batteries, I believe that's the largest that can go into the lugs on the Renogy 40a controller, and is rated for 40 amps. 2 AWG connect all batteries together and I also use 2 AWG to go from the batteries to the Inverter.

The load is a simple 12v RV led light fixture and I only turn it on when I'm at the setup, never used otherwise and only draws half an amp...it doesn't worry me at all.

I like the idea of a breaker on the positive cable between the Rover 40 and the battery. I use the T-Tocas from the solar panel so I may just get another for that.

I went out to the cabin to split some wood and decided to uninstall and re-install the BT App and now get access to all parameters to adjust. FM I suppose. Did that yesterday but with all the info here I may be off on a few settings. I did go up to 14.3v on the boost and equalize since I do think that's safe.

Note: The CHINS lingo, DC app lingo and Renogy BT app lingo are slightly different if anyone responds please use the lingo on the BT app. It's likely the app I will continue to use. Anyone know how to reset the history on the app? Or must it be done at the Controller?
 

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Dynoman

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Michigan
Your going all Will Prowse on me with the fuses lol, I know they make things safer I just haven't gotten around to it. There is a lot of fail safe built into the inverter and controller too but I intend to get around to these eventually.

The 200 amp T-fuse brings up a question, WRT the batteries which can output 100 amp max but 200 amp for 5s, per the bms. When I combined the batteries in parallel will that max add up or stay the same? Somehow I believe they'll stay the same since CHINS recommends only combining 4 batteries in parallel. The BMS's must recognize this...I could be wrong. That Go power T Fuse on Amazon.ca is $139.99 I may look for something a bit cheaper....maybe blue sea has one.

The inverter runs to a good house hold panel and is hooked to a 30amp breaker. The cabin and panel was all wired by a certified electrician. I don't use anything remotely that large in my cabin, mainly lights, fan in the bathroom, tv, dvd etc. I have a toaster but it runs at 700w so I don't like using it and usually only do when I turn on my generator (4000w). Same as my Keurig, which sucks the life out of batteries...but I love my coffee so the french press will have to do or instant which is at the bottom of the list for coffee.

8 AWG wire goes from the controller to the batteries, I believe that's the largest that can go into the lugs on the Renogy 40a controller, and is rated for 40 amps. 2 AWG connect all batteries together and I also use 2 AWG to go from the batteries to the Inverter.

The load is a simple 12v RV led light fixture and I only turn it on when I'm at the setup, never used otherwise and only draws half an amp...it doesn't worry me at all.

I like the idea of a breaker on the positive cable between the Rover 40 and the battery. I use the T-Tocas from the solar panel so I may just get another for that.

I went out to the cabin to split some wood and decided to uninstall and re-install the BT App and now get access to all parameters to adjust. FM I suppose. Did that yesterday but with all the info here I may be off on a few settings. I did go up to 14.3v on the boost and equalize since I do think that's safe.

Note: The CHINS lingo, DC app lingo and Renogy BT app lingo are slightly different if anyone responds please use the lingo on the BT app. It's likely the app I will continue to use. Anyone know how to reset the history on the app? Or must it be done at the Controller?

Looking at message #2 the specs listed on Chins website.

The Chins 12 volt battery specifications list it as a is 100 ah battery. It also list the battery as having Max continuous discharge current of 100Amps. This rating is per battery. When batteries are in parallel the amps add and the voltage stays the same.

With four 12 volt 100 ah batteries the voltage is 12 and the ah is 400. This is a very good battery bank for a 12 volt 2000 watt inverter.

For the Inverter to run at full power is about 200 amps: 2000w / 0.85 (efficiency of Inv) / 12V =196 amps (or roughly .5C 196amps/400ah)

A fully charged 400ah battery bank should be able to run the inverter for 2 hours. 400ah /196amp load = 2.04 hours.

The 8 gauge wire is good for the Rover 40.

The 2 gauge wire for the batteries is on the light side, but should be good for 11 feet or less. See link for battery wire.

Although a T-fuse is the best a MRBF fuse is a good fuse and can cost less, but the T-fuse in highly recommended.

MRBF Fuse

MRBF Terminal mount

Again I strongly recommend a fuse on the positive cable from the battery to inverter and battery to the Rover 40 ASAP.
Lifepo4 batteries have a lot of power. The BMS may offer some protection, but I would not count on it.

I will look at the latest screen shots using the Renogy BT app.
 
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SunnyNorth

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Sep 10, 2022
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Thanks for the info, I get no heat from the 2 awg wire so that's good for me. Just ordered a 40a circuit breaker to go between the charge controller and batteries plus the Blue Sea 5191 terminal block and 200a fuse today.

The 8 guage is less than 2 feet and I did find a little heat when the controller puts out close to max amps so I ordered a set of 6 guage to try out on the controller.
 
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