Renogy charge controller won’t charge?

[HandsomeSteve]

Renogy charge controller won’t charge?

I’m just starting out w/ solar:

My renogy 10watt charge controller isn’t charging according to my new qwok battery monitor ,my lead acid battery.

Yesterday I connected my AC/DC inverter to charge my drills battery.

This process from the house’s AC120VAC usaley takes around 40minutes about the same amount of time w/ invertor.

Started this charge w/ battery at 98.5%. the invertor was sucking 5amps to charge drill battery. After the 40 minutes battery dropped to 96.9%.

last night the two LEDs lights where on for 4 hours only sucking .3 amps in morming the battery was at 94.9%.

This morning the panel was putting out 12.8 volts however after 6plus hours. the battery hasn’t increased it’s %.



Additionally the USB ports won’t charge a USB devise.



Could my charge controller be defective?



Maye I should step up to the eco worthy 30amp? I believe it has the programmable timer load I want. This.

https://www.amazon.com/ECO-Worthy-Controller-Intelligent-Regulator-Negative/dp/B08JBLMC33/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=OdSlB&content-id=amzn1.sym.255b3518-6e7f-495c-8611-30a58648072e:amzn1.symc.a68f4ca3-28dc-4388-a2cf-24672c480d8f&pf_rd_p=255b3518-6e7f-495c-8611-30a58648072e&pf_rd_r=PDZ6HN42X2FXFCZC64ZR&pd_rd_wg=rYre6&pd_rd_r=17a2d677-57ff-4dfb-b479-269436281912&ref_=pd_hp_d_atf_ci_mcx_mr_ca_hp_atf_d





Or this I like the current being displayed but unsure if it has the programmable timer load.

https://www.amazon.com/GHB-Controller-Intelligent-Temperature-Compensation/dp/B01LZZMDSQ/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=Gd0wf&content-id=amzn1.sym.255b3518-6e7f-495c-8611-30a58648072e:amzn1.symc.a68f4ca3-28dc-4388-a2cf-24672c480d8f&pf_rd_p=255b3518-6e7f-495c-8611-30a58648072e&pf_rd_r=9AGBP640ZA3QEW6GD1NH&pd_rd_wg=nbQU8&pd_rd_r=ac6715da-d499-4975-bed6-611f9eb85226&ref_=pd_hp_d_atf_ci_mcx_mr_ca_hp_atf_d



thanks for advise

 

[MisterSandals]

Yesterday I connected my AC/DC inverter to charge my drills battery.

Did you connect the inverter to the battery or the output on the SCC (you shouldn't)?

My renogy 10watt charge controller

10 amp charge controller?

the panel was putting out 12.8 volts

The solar panel voltage needs to be roughly 5V higher than battery voltage before most SCCs start charging.

What panel do you have that outputs 12.8V?

 

[mikefitz]

10watt charge controller isn’t charging according to my new qwok battery monitor

It maybe battery and the monitor shunt is not correctly connected in the circuit. Shunt B- connects to battery negative, P- connects to the negative battery connection on the controller, 4th connection from the left and P- to the negative of any loads, including the inverter.
The two connections on the right end of the controller, the load outputs are not used. Battery positive connects to the 3rd connection from the left.
The controllers you listed are PWM controllers, the solar input voltage measured on the input connections will be slightly higher then battery voltage.

 

[740GLE]

What size solar panels are you using to charge?

 

[HandsomeSteve]

Did you connect the inverter to the battery or the output on the SCC (you shouldn't)?

10 amp charge controller?

The solar panel voltage needs to be roughly 5V higher than battery voltage before most SCCs start charging.

What panel do you have that outputs 12.8V?

yes I connected DC/AC inverters 12VDC socket (ciggarette liter plug) to the batterys positive then it's negative to out put of shunt P~
then output of shunt P~ to neg of charge controller.

I have renogy 10amp charge controller

here's the 9bb solar panel I have

additional details I have the panel kindof primitively setup (it's tempurary) but is facing south an tilted back.dissreguard those batterys on bench they are being trickle charged for cars I rarely drive.
heres the arrangement

I read the cable out of charge controler should be short mine is 14AWG an about 6' long, it's a extension cord I cut.
thanks for advising

 

[HandsomeSteve]

It maybe battery and the monitor shunt is not correctly connected in the circuit. Shunt B- connects to battery negative yes, P- connects to the negative battery connection on the controller yes, 4th connection from the left and P- to the negative of any loads, including the inverter yes.
The two connections on the right end of the controller, the load outputs are not used.I am using these outputs for my programed timer load Battery positive connects to the 3rd connection from the left.
The controllers you listed are PWM controllers, the solar input voltage measured on the input connections will be slightly higher then battery voltage.

response in bold thanks for advising.

 

[HandsomeSteve]

What size solar panels are you using to charge?

here's the 9bb solar panel I have I only plan to have just one 100 watt solar panel. thanks

 

[740GLE]

yes I connected DC/AC inverters 12VDC socket (ciggarette liter plug) to the batterys positive then it's negative to out put of shunt P~
then output of shunt P~ to neg of charge controller.
View attachment 297607
I have renogy 10amp charge controller
View attachment 297608
here's the 9bb solar panel I have
View attachment 297606
additional details I have the panel kindof primitively setup (it's tempurary) but is facing south an tilted back.dissreguard those batterys on bench they are being trickle charged for cars I rarely drive.
View attachment 297611 heres the arrangement
View attachment 297612
I read the cable out of charge controler should be short mine is 14AWG an about 6' long, it's a extension cord I cut.
thanks for advising

So that isn’t ideal at all for that panel at all, that’s your problem.

You gotta get that outside, direct sunlight. Any shading is cutting all output down.

You might be able to rig up some sort of bracket to hang out the window and just run the leads inside.

As you show you’ll never charge anything that way.

 

[HandsomeSteve]

So that isn’t ideal at all for that panel at all, that’s your problem.

You gotta get that outside, direct sunlight. Any shading is cutting all output down.

You might be able to rig up some sort of bracket to hang out the window and just run the leads inside.

As you show you’ll never charge anything that way.

can't hang outside like in the front of house some lowlife will run off w/ the panel the firat day.

I could setup in backyard however I'd like to have my LEDs which would be 100' away plus running wires all over the floor would be a trip hazard.

 

[MTM98290]

You need to disguise the panel or get it mounted too high to steal.

Maybe you could mount it inside a big garbage can with a flip open lid that you leave open. Fill it with rocks and flip the lid open with panel mounted inside lid. The lowlifes will not even see it assuming the lid doesn't face the street

Put an electric fence around it. Haha.

There are a few all black panels that I think that you could disguised as an awning over the window.

Use the panel you have and bolt it down. Fill the bolt heads with JB weld.

A Yolink motion sensor connected to a Yolink siren or similar is a pretty good deterrent if the thief would be dissuaded by the attention it would bring.

I have tried putting panels in the window in cars and in house. It really doesn't work very well at all. Old single paine glass is best but still very limiting.

I use that same Scc that you have and it works fine for me, but as mentioned above it doesn't do much until it gets strong sunlight. My setup with that unit has 50w of solar connected and it is at battery voltage almost any time it is light outside. The little battery Icon will show charging but that doesn't mean much. The voltage will match the battery voltage until you reach float stage and have extra current that that the battery is unable to take. If you see 18-24v or whatever the panel spec is then you know that you have reached float stage. If you just see battery voltage so your shunt and monitor are really what is important for your setup.

The BT-1 (i think) bluetooth dongle is about 2.5x as much as the SCC cost but will tell you if you are in bulk or float etc. You can also switch the load off and on with your phone if you need that.

 

[740GLE]

How far are you from the roof? Can you set it on the roof and run the cables down to the window?

Also what are those small eco worthy things in the window? 5w panels?

 

[HandsomeSteve]

Y

I use that same Scc that you have and it works fine for me, but as mentioned above it doesn't do much until it gets strong sunlight. My setup with that unit has 50w of solar connected and it is at battery voltage almost any time it is light outside. The little battery Icon will show charging but that doesn't mean much.so the little battery icon when lited just indicates charging but at a low level. like right now at 10am shes charging but only at 12.1VDC The voltage will match the battery voltage until you reach float stage and have extra current that that the battery is unable to take. If you see 18-24v or whatever the panel spec is then you know that you have reached float stage. If you just see battery voltage so your shunt and monitor are really what is important for your setup.

The BT-1 (i think) bluetooth dongle is about 2.5x as much as the SCC cost but will tell you if you are in bulk or float etc. You can also switch the load off and on with your phone if you need that.

yes all I ever see is battery voltage usaley at 12.1VDC thats w/ the PV at 12.8VDC. additionaly the batterys bar graph has never gotten to 3 bars of strenght during charging 2 bars then 3rd blinks. when not charging just one bar.

my battery is new not sure why battery % has never reached the 3 bars of strenght on the charge controller. this w/ 30 days of use an most of those 30 where decent sunlight.

now w/ the Qwok battery % meter seams all the battery doe's is weaken. weather has been bad since I've connected the % meter but I still get a little charge usaley 12.1 or 12.2VDC thanks

 

[HandsomeSteve]

How far are you from the roof? Can you set it on the roof and run the cables down to the window?

Also what are those small eco worthy things in the window? 5w panels?

I'm actuely planning to relocate so I'm not interested in a roof mount untill I move.
the small eco worthy are 10watt panels used to trickle an maintain batterys for yatch, spare vehical X2.
they work pretty good. I'd like to use a small 10watt panel w/ my charge controller all I'm powering is 2 LEDs which only suck .3amps.thanks

 

[HandsomeSteve]

The two connections on the right end of the controller, the load outputs are not used.

I am using the load timer function so I've connected to the far right outputs could this be interferring w/ the charge? thanks

 

[HandsomeSteve]

would a shorter than current 6' an thicker than 14AWG charge wire output of charge controller to battery, improve the charge situation?

 

[740GLE]

Honestly those small 10w ecoworthy panels will output way more than the larger panel no matter what awg is to the SCC. It’s the position and shading.

For larger panels, any shade makes panels useless, so how that panel is positioned everything is going against it outputting anything worthwhile.

 

[HandsomeSteve]

Honestly those small 10w ecoworthy panels will output way more than the larger panel no matter what awg is to the SCC. It’s the position and shading.

For larger panels, any shade makes panels useless, so how that panel is positioned everything is going against it outputting anything worthwhile.

you are absolutley correct I just connected the little 10watt charging at 124VDC then added the 2nd 10watt both combined charge increased to 12.7VDC this w/ a short burst of sunshine.

I haven’t had a chance to see my new battery meter mearsure charge status only discharge status due to It’s been raining for like 4 days straight no sun light.

today the sun finally shines a bit.

since I'm not installing outside untill I move. maybe I should get a small 50watt panel. this

Amazon.com

according to this review (could be faked missinformation) hard to believe this little 50watt is outputting 25VDC even in shade.

my large 100watt was only putting out 12.8VDC on a good day but the charg controllers bar graph of battery strenge never reached the 3 bars.

 

[MTM98290]

Take your 100w outside and see what happens. Don't leave it out, just do some testing to see what best case performance is. I would guess that even a great 50w panel won't do well through the window either.

 

[740GLE]

stick with the small 10w units as they aren’t blocked by the window grates.

 

[HandsomeSteve]

right now I'm slumming w/out a charge controller an large panel.two x10watt panels directly to deep cycle battery. I have another 5watt panel can all three be connected to battery? I say slumming bc I have to turn LEDs on an off manuely.
plan to try a ecowhorthy 30amp controller next w/ both 10watters will report back.

 

[MTM98290]

Your Renogy 10A ahould work just fine with the panel you have. If it doesn't work I would return it for another, assuming that you try that panel and controller outside it still doesn't work. The panel directly to battery is risky if you aren't watching it at all times. Once your battery is full that panel can overcharge your battery and ruin it.

 

[HandsomeSteve]

Your Renogy 10A ahould work just fine with the panel you have. If it doesn't work I would return it for another, assuming that you try that panel and controller outside it still doesn't work. The panel directly to battery is risky if you aren't watching it at all times. Once your battery is full that panel can overcharge your battery and ruin it.

I probaley should have gotton this 30watt.

The ecowhorthy claims it protects against over charge is this misinformation or just plain fakery?

Still can’t understand are these small panels even chargers or is this more fakery?

Missadvertising when they claim chargers?

 

[MisterSandals]

I probaley should have gotton this 30watt.

Thats a pretty spendy panel.

I looked back and am trying to figure out why you are using solar. At these prices grid power will be FAR cheaper.
To break even on that panel, assuming (guessing) your grid power is $.20/kWh...

30W x 5h per day = 150Wh per day
$60.74 / $.20 = 303kWh

303kWh x (1 day/ .150kWh) = 2024 days of production (5.5 years)

 

[HandsomeSteve]

Thats a pretty spendy panel.

I looked back and am trying to figure out why you are using solar. At these prices grid power will be FAR cheaper.
To break even on that panel, assuming (guessing) your grid power is $.20/kWh...

30W x 5h per day = 150Wh per day
$60.74 / $.20 = 303kWh

303kWh x (1 day/ .150kWh) = 2024 days of production (5.5 years)

my objective is to power my yachts house battery I'm setting the solar up in spare bedroom to familiarizing myself w/ how it operates.
here's more details.
connecting 2nd battery as house battery an keeping it charged
connecting 2nd boat battery as house battery for MFD,external GPS antenna, VHF radio cabin,NMEA2K network, NAV,Anchor,
front,rear small flood LEDs. 2 bilge pumps,livewell pump.overboard light, in near future a Clairion music radio.
Typical marine accessories haven’t added all the amp hours each use.


This bow mounted battery will be inside the cabin, (24' vessel)which means if the windows are closed I will be exposed
To toxic an flammable battery fumes.
How long can the battery vent tube be? Will this vent tube require a end piece similar to the fuel tanks vent
Which blocks water from entering tube from above? Or can the vent tube outside hull just be bent or elbowed Downward?

Options for keeping house battery charged.

Not sure about even using this option bc RayMarine says to use separate battery for the MFD.previous small MFD also Ray Marine I just used start battery for house stuff an engine.


The Evinrude cable is 5009076 https://www.greatlakesskipper.com/ev...079-16-foot-g2 this seller doesn’t mention the AWG size of the cable it appears to be 4AWG similar to the engines power Cable. Problem is this cable is only 16’ which places the house battery well before midship where I’d prefer to have house battery in bow.another 10 to 15’ dependant on which side.

1.(extend an enlarge the diameter of cable) for the isolator. I was actuely thinking of making my own isolator
Cable an just splicing it into the ETEC prioritized plug at engine.

2.100watt marine compact solar panel (flat on roof), charge controller. Haven’t crunched the #s on a smallish
solar sys. Being able to replenish the battery as battery is being used.





https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e_4?smid=&th=1






https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...DKIKX0DER&th=1

Power requirements for my sys. Here’s the stuff I’m powering w/lead acid house battery

Costco interstate group27 deep cycle marine I believe it has 87amp hours which I can only use half of this 87.


1.RayMarine element 12HV 2 amps per hour image
2.Garmin 24XD GPS antenna receiver/ w/ heading sensor, Input current: 150 mA at 12 Vdc

3. Seaflo 750GPH primary bilge pump w/ float switch, 2.5 amps Max Draw: 5A
4.rule 1500GPH secondary bilge pump, just a guess 7.0 amps max current draw 12 amps
5.Seaflo 800GPH live well pump Current: 4.0A | Max Draw: 6.8A

6. anchor light LED 3 watts
7.NMEA 2K network
8.NAV lights LED
9. Standard Horizon GX1600 VHF radio, Current Drain
Standby .................................................. ......................................... 0.45 A
Receiver (at Maximum AF Output) .................................................. ... 0.8 A
Transmit .................................................. ................... 5.0 A (Hi), 1.0 A (Lo
10. future music radio Clarion GR1BT Marine Gauge-Mount Digital Media Receiver unknown amp usage?
Undecided on replenhishing Tablet, Lat top batteries an blue tooth speaker.
thanks for advising about adding house battery


edit: I'm planning a 9.9kicker auxilary engine but again Ray Marine says to have a separate battery for there MFD. so the start battery will be responable for starting two engines main an kicker or should I get a small battery for the kicker an have three batterys?thanks for advising

 

[MTM98290]

To clarify, I only meant that the 100w panel with the 10A Renogy pwm charger should work just fine outside. If you meant that you are hooking the 100w panel to the battery, that is too high of a voltage for a 12v battery once battery is full.

The little panels often have a pwm circuit built in or are low enough power that they can't over charge the battery.

With all those loads running you will need much more than 43.5AH and 100w panel. As I understand it, having enough real estate for solar panels is the challenge many face trying to keep boat batteries charged with solar.

What keeps your house battery working right now? Does the engine have an alternator/generator?