diy solar

diy solar

Revo II tripping breakers when 2 or more are in use

However more than enough time has passed for you to label your all black wires coming from the outputs of your units. Have you gotten them sorted out?

Have you resovled your tripping breaker issue?
 
This response seems to indicate your still not picking up Hedges and I have been trying to put down since the first of this post. A single phase output inverter does not equal a dual phase output inverter.

20201119_164638-jpg.28029
is never going to be dual split phase


Ya I understood what you are saying. What I was saying is that mine also has 3 inputs and 3 outputs. I've seen some videos of guys only having 2 AC outputs. I would assume that would be a power and ground?

I guess what I need to do is take off one of the legs and see if it just puts out 240 out of just one 6 guage wire?
 
However more than enough time has passed for you to label your all black wires coming from the outputs of your units. Have you gotten them sorted out?

Have you resovled your tripping breaker issue?


breakers still trip but I'm thinking that maybe I need to put the inverters back in default mode from the factory like they were in when they were all working fine. We did an ohm test on all the wires and all of them were going to the right breakers. Like all the bottom phase 6 guage cables were going to all of the middle connection (Green, Black, Black) All the top phase 6 guage wire was going to the right side.


How much current loss will it be if I just bought a 25kw transformer? Would it eat up a lot of current? My Aims 10k inverter I was using says in the book it uses 150 watts. So that is 3300 watts a day.
 
each phase on the subpanel reads 124volt just like it says coming out of the AC out on the inverters.

Of course nothing but clouds and rain all week so far.
 
When you started to inform about the Revo II, I warned you that they are 220v only.

You wrote:"Ya I knew they were 220 volt units, do you know if it is a high or low frequency inverter?"

To me it still feels like you want to make it magical split phase.
It's not.

You knew at the start, most people on the forum told you, the producers told you, the specifications tell you.

Again, hat's off for the first installer, perhaps ask them to rewire as they where able to make it magical work.
(Without the magic smoke)

Anyway, no point in pointing fingers, work towards a solution.

Some more information about how autotransformers work:

One solution might be the Victron autotransformer 100A.
That should fit your needs.

Specification sheet attached.
Pricing I've seen for USA $650-700,-
Victron is high end (with higher price), middle classes autotransformer should be about $350,- and probably widely available in USA.

It's confusing matter, split phase that actually uses ground and have an L1 and L2 +, where sine wave just have L and N, grounding not used except for safety.

Diving deeper and things like 180 degree phase shift, starts getting really confusing when you keep in mind that outside N/S America also know 3 phase 400volt setups.

it almost gives me the same headaches when I tried to grasp E = mc2....
I simply miss the background to be able to understand all parts involved.

So I just accept that USA uses different, Not compatible. :)

For own power usage, it's not mentioned in the specs ?? (Or in other autotransformers I found)

What I could learn from how it operates, it's not constant, but mostly load depending.
Own use should be relatively low.

For any inverter I like to tell people that you will use 5% of its maximal capacity always as standby or own power usage.
For the Revo, I use about 2% on my 3200 watt units.

Just that I like to tell that lead acid only absorbs 85% of the power you put in and get back. 15% is lost.
For LiFePO4, it's 95%

Rough numbers, and yes, on the negative.
Lead acid can do up to 92%, LiFePO4 98% and inverters down to 1.5%
If I would start with those numbers, most people would be disappointed with what they get.

To keep expectations realistic...
(And get a positive feeling)

If you have 20.000 watt inverter, that will use about 5% = 1000 watts.

For the 4 x 5.5kw Revo II units, +/- 0.5kwh, always.
No matter how much you are loading them.

Yes, there is a thing called sleep mode, that many companies wave with as standby power usage...
Don't fall for that trick.
You are never using standby sleep mode.
In parallel, they are all awake. Always.

So, for your possible 22kw power production you always use 12 kWh per day, being able to produce way over 500 kWh per day.

Sure , 12 kWh per day sounds a lot.
500 kWh is a lot.
No matter if it goes directly from solar to AC or from battery, you will have losses.
Besides those losses, your system needs to be up and running.

If you are a taxi driver in a crowded town, your average milage goes down a lot.
If you would extract the gasoline used standing still (not driving, producing) your milage probably isn't that bad.
But you don't care as you can't stop and start the car that much times, it would cost more then keep it stationary.
You simply accept that stationary, all the things that use in your car (stereo, air-conditioning, power steering, lights, etc.) Use energy/ gasoline.

Inverters aren't that much different.
They have their own power consumption that needs to be there, besides the conversion losses.

For the price class, Revo II from Sorotec with its 2% is not bad, not bad at all.

I have had 3 different brands, using 1.8 to 6%.
My 6000W units used just 100 watt, sadly design was badly made for small loads (under 500w) that made them do the magic smoke. (It didn't turn on the fan)
EASun 3000watt used whopping 6%.. that, amongst many different issues.
If you thought about buying... Don't.
images (45).jpeg
 

Attachments

  • Datasheet-Autotransformer-32A-and-100A-EN (1).pdf
    416.2 KB · Views: 9
Last edited:

This pictures show a single pole breaker on the AC in "L", no breaker on the "N"
It expected "N" to be at ground potential.
So long as you feed it with a suitable 2-pole breaker from the AC grid, it will be protected.

I'm waiting to see what you get with your 2-pole breaker off and inverter running off PV or battery. What voltage from each hot leg to ground/neutral?

Also, with your 2-pole breaker on but the inverter shut down. What voltage then from each hot leg to ground/neutral?

It would be expected to have a relay disconnecting "L" from grid during a power failure. But unless it disconnects "N" from grid as well, there is going to be a problem with your 120V application.
 
This pictures show a single pole breaker on the AC in "L", no breaker on the "N"
It expected "N" to be at ground potential.
So long as you feed it with a suitable 2-pole breaker from the AC grid, it will be protected.

I'm waiting to see what you get with your 2-pole breaker off and inverter running off PV or battery. What voltage from each hot leg to ground/neutral?

Also, with your 2-pole breaker on but the inverter shut down. What voltage then from each hot leg to ground/neutral?

It would be expected to have a relay disconnecting "L" from grid during a power failure. But unless it disconnects "N" from grid as well, there is going to be a problem with your 120V application.
Hello....

I know I AM SHOUTING!!

"What voltage from each hot leg to ground/neutral?"....

Not North or South American continent product.

No 2 "hot" legs.

Just L one.
No L two.
And ground is NOT to be used!!!!!
(Except for residual current device)

(Wikipedia links)
Split-phase electric power
equivalent of the original Edison Machine Works three-wire direct-current system.

Single-phase electric power
Two wire

Three-phase electric power
Four wire

I know hard for USA people to understand that the rest of the world doesn't use all 3 wires for electricity.

Just as hard it is for the rest of the world why USA would use a backwards compatible to DC system in this time of only AC grid.

That "war" was indeed on USA soil, DC vs AC.

For the rest of the world it looks "out dated" to keep supporting DC.

Please, once again.
Only load and neutral.
Ground is is NOT to be used.

Not at all.
No 3 wires, just 2.

When you have that up and running..
You can attach a third wire, yellow/ green, white or light gray for
Residual-current device
The ONLY reason to use the third wire is for residual current device.
Nothing more, nothing less.
Just that.

Please, get it in your heads...
Not for standard USA grid, period.

You need to use an autotransformer.

If you are able to make it work, you can be sure you are breaking all Local laws on installations, and when there is the fire (not if.. when) no insurance will cover as it's user fault.

Atleast in the rest of the globe.
It can be that North and South America continent have different standard for this as well :)
(Joke)

Please..
It's complicated mater. I know.
Especially if you like to go from "global" three phase (4 wires) to American split phase...

The explanation on the Victron site is quite good.

In layman's terms:
Don't mess with it, don't even try to make your car run on tap water.
While hydrogen gas is perfect good fuel... It's just not the same as gasoline.

This is more or less the same.
Too different to use directly together and still follow all safety regulations.

That $650-700 additional investment will provide 100A
And follow all rules and regulations.

The changes that you fry a Revo or two... Is bigger then make it work within regulations.

Perhaps a good solution also.
Fry the 4 left over Revo II, and buy system designed for split phase.

Victron is top brand, with matching price tag :)
 
Last edited:
Hello....

I know I AM SHOUTING!!

"What voltage from each hot leg to ground/neutral?"....

Not North or South American continent product.

No 2 "hot" legs.

Just L one.
No L two.
And ground is NOT to be used!!!!!
(Except for residual current device)

(Wikipedia links)
Split-phase electric power
equivalent of the original Edison Machine Works three-wire direct-current system.

Single-phase electric power
Two wire

Three-phase electric power
Four wire

I know hard for USA people to understand that the rest of the world doesn't use all 3 wires for electricity.

Just as hard it is for the rest of the world why USA would use a backwards compatible to DC system in this time of only AC grid.

That "war" was indeed on USA soil, DC vs AC.

For the rest of the world it looks "out dated" to keep supporting DC.

Please, once again.
Only load and neutral.
Ground is is NOT to be used.

Not at all.
No 3 wires, just 2.

When you have that up and running..
You can attach a third wire, yellow/ green, white or light gray for
Residual-current device
The ONLY reason to use the third wire is for residual current device.
Nothing more, nothing less.
Just that.

Please, get it in your heads...
Not for standard USA grid, period.

You need to use an autotransformer.

If you are able to make it work, you can be sure you are breaking all Local laws on installations, and when there is the fire (not if.. when) no insurance will cover as it's user fault.

Atleast in the rest of the globe.
It can be that North and South America continent have different standard for this as well :)
(Joke)

Please..
It's complicated mater. I know.
Especially if you like to go from "global" three phase (4 wires) to American split phase...

The explanation on the Victron site is quite good.

In layman's terms:
Don't mess with it, don't even try to make your car run on tap water.
While hydrogen gas is perfect good fuel... It's just not the same as gasoline.

This is more or less the same.
Too different to use directly together and still follow all safety regulations.

That $650-700 additional investment will provide 100A
And follow all rules and regulations.

The changes that you fry a Revo or two... Is bigger then make it work within regulations.

Perhaps a good solution also.
Fry the 4 left over Revo II, and buy system designed for split phase.

Victron is top brand, with matching price tag :)


Those are $666.00 about everywhere I looked. Very interesting price point. And Im wondering if it is 100 amps at 240 or 100 amps at 120?

Lot of the stuff I have runs off of 240volt. But need the 120volt of course for the small stuff.

100 x 240volt is 24,000 watts
100 x 120volt is 12,000 watts

If it is the latter im going to have to buy 2 of them.


Erus has already told me I need at Min a 25kva transformer.

And I use waayyyyyy more than 12kwh a day ill prob use around 100,000kwh in a day in the summer.
 
Those are $666.00 about everywhere I looked. Very interesting price point. And Im wondering if it is 100 amps at 240 or 100 amps at 120?

And I use waayyyyyy more than 12kwh a day ill prob use around 100,000kwh in a day in the summer.


"Maximum 240 V feed through current 32A 100A" (at 240V, current depends on model)

"Neutral current, 30 min 32A (3800 VA)
Neutral current, continuous 28A @ 40ºC/100ºF" (at 120V)

Nope, you don't get 100A at 120V. You can have 100A on one leg, 100 - 32 = 68A on the other leg, 32A on neutral for the imbalance.
You can draw 100A from each 120V leg so long as you draw at least 68A from the other leg.
If one 120V leg has zero draw, you can only draw 32A from the other (for 30 minutes, 28A continuous.)

If you exceed that, after it heats up it disconnects from the inverter, shutting off.
Maybe you can get away with 100A briefly (over 3x current rating, will heat up 10x as fast, maybe 3 minutes). Or, voltage may sag. Probably OK for motor starting loads.

Might be nicer to set up a 35A or 40A breaker on the neutral ganged to a 2-pole 100A breaker for the two lines. Then if overloaded it trips sooner when breaker element heats up, rather than waiting for entire transformer to heat up. Ideally, a device that would sense neutral current but only open the two lines and not the neutral? But no harm in opening neutral simultaneously - that's what an all-pole GFCI does.

100 kWh/day I'll give you. 100 MWh (100,000 kWh)? no way.
To generate 100 kWh you'll need about 20kW to 25kW of PV panels. Which can be had for as little as $3k to $4k.
 

"Maximum 240 V feed through current 32A 100A" (at 240V, current depends on model)

"Neutral current, 30 min 32A (3800 VA)
Neutral current, continuous 28A @ 40ºC/100ºF" (at 120V)

Nope, you don't get 100A at 120V. You can have 100A on one leg, 100 - 32 = 68A on the other leg, 32A on neutral for the imbalance.
You can draw 100A from each 120V leg so long as you draw at least 68A from the other leg.
If one 120V leg has zero draw, you can only draw 32A from the other (for 30 minutes, 28A continuous.)

If you exceed that, after it heats up it disconnects from the inverter, shutting off.
Maybe you can get away with 100A briefly (over 3x current rating, will heat up 10x as fast, maybe 3 minutes). Or, voltage may sag. Probably OK for motor starting loads.

Might be nicer to set up a 35A or 40A breaker on the neutral ganged to a 2-pole 100A breaker for the two lines. Then if overloaded it trips sooner when breaker element heats up, rather than waiting for entire transformer to heat up. Ideally, a device that would sense neutral current but only open the two lines and not the neutral? But no harm in opening neutral simultaneously - that's what an all-pole GFCI does.

100 kWh/day I'll give you. 100 MWh (100,000 kWh)? no way.
To generate 100 kWh you'll need about 20kW to 25kW of PV panels. Which can be had for as little as $3k to $4k.


I had 12- 335 watt panels at first and produced around 24KW in a day in the summer according to my midnite classic 200. I have since put up 36- 390 watt panels which is on the revos.
I use more power in summer than winter with the air conditioners kicking on.

Some days im sure Ill use more and some less depending on what Im doing.

I like the feature where the revos use power from the grid if i need it which im sure I will on a lot of days.
Eventually id likento put some panels up on my shop roof. I can put up a crap load of em up their.

Ive been eyeing that Santan site on those 250 watt panels. Or come across a good deal on some panels.


I guess monday Im gonna call square D and ask em about how effiencent one of their transformers is. I watched a little video of a guy saying that transformers today are 98% effiecent
 

"Maximum 240 V feed through current 32A 100A" (at 240V, current depends on model)

"Neutral current, 30 min 32A (3800 VA)
Neutral current, continuous 28A @ 40ºC/100ºF" (at 120V)

Nope, you don't get 100A at 120V. You can have 100A on one leg, 100 - 32 = 68A on the other leg, 32A on neutral for the imbalance.
You can draw 100A from each 120V leg so long as you draw at least 68A from the other leg.
If one 120V leg has zero draw, you can only draw 32A from the other (for 30 minutes, 28A continuous.)

If you exceed that, after it heats up it disconnects from the inverter, shutting off.
Maybe you can get away with 100A briefly (over 3x current rating, will heat up 10x as fast, maybe 3 minutes). Or, voltage may sag. Probably OK for motor starting loads.

Might be nicer to set up a 35A or 40A breaker on the neutral ganged to a 2-pole 100A breaker for the two lines. Then if overloaded it trips sooner when breaker element heats up, rather than waiting for entire transformer to heat up. Ideally, a device that would sense neutral current but only open the two lines and not the neutral? But no harm in opening neutral simultaneously - that's what an all-pole GFCI does.

100 kWh/day I'll give you. 100 MWh (100,000 kWh)? no way.
To generate 100 kWh you'll need about 20kW to 25kW of PV panels. Which can be had for as little as $3k to $4k.
I'm sorry, you are making it way to complex.

There are 2 different models.
- 32A
- 100A

And yes, the 100A model does 100A @240 volt.
That is maximal 24000 watt.

True, the small appliances that run of 120v snoop off some of the 100A maximal load.

Not exactly 32A.
That can be but would be excellent guessing from @Hedges side :)

I'm guessing here that you use 10A for small appliances or 1200 watt at 120v.

That leaves you with 90*240= 21.600 watt,
Your average load is about 50% of this.
No problems at all.

Sure, if you know you will have peaks that last longer then 30 minutes that you will use together (the 120v and 240v lines) 100A, yes, buy 2.
One 100A model +
one 32A model.

It's not 32A @120v and/or 100A @ 240v
It's 100A total, together.
The Victron Ballance it out.

Again, just guessing here.
1200 watt on 120v (10A) is in my book already a lot of power consumption for small appliances.

A hotel or resort probably gets that power consumption easy.

If it's just some chargers, TV (not 24/7 on?) And other smaller stuff...
1200W is a lot.

With average of 10 kilo watt, +21kw max is not that bad.

I don't know your household.
Strong electrical oven can use 32A.
But then you have (or can open) a Pizza restaurant :)

Normal consumption 10kw, going over 20kw is a lot extra.

With my mining farm I used 18kw 24/7 only for mining.
The rest of the house 0.5-5kwh.
120A power line from the grid

And electricity bill over $18.000 that year :)
 
Just the right amount of complex, I think.

Neutral current of 32A for 30 minutes, 28A continuous is straight from the Victron data sheet.

You can have a maximum of 32A (one unit) or 100A (other unit) from either hot leg.
But, neutral leg can carry no more than 28A continuous. That's the maximum imbalance allowed between legs.

OK with 100A L1, 100A L2, zero amps N
OK with 100A L1, 72A L2, 28A N
OK with 28A L1, zero amps L2, 28A N.

Best to keep 240V loads on existing panel, add a 40A breaker, use the 32A Victron transformer, then use a 30A breaker (possibly 40A) to feed a sub-panel for 120V loads.

But we still need to know if the inverter isolates both poles "L" and "N" from the grid in the event of a blackout.
If it only isolates "L" and not "N", then using a 120/240V autotransformer (not an isolation transformer) is bad, a danger to the lineman.
Even using the 240V panel is a risk - if a fault to ground occurs during backup operation, the inverter would feed AC back into the grid (unless both L and N are isolated.)
 
Not according to the Victron manual.

100A can be 100A on the 120v or 240, or any combination of both.

The 32A is different model.

Like you have 3.200 watt Revo II and 5.500 Revo II models.

You should not try to calculate 5.500-3.200=???
As they have nothing to do with eachother.

If it would have been 16A and 100A models, or 75 and 100A?

Or 75 and 125A?
Then there is 125+75 just 50A for the 240v???

Different models, nothing to do with eachother.

The 100A model can do 100A on 120v.
Can do 100A on 240 or any combination.
And yes, 30 minutes at full capacity.
90A continuous useage.

That is 21600 watt @ 240 volt minus the consumption on the 120v.
24/7, no compromise.

Maximal 28A (imbalance.
So if you use more then 28A on the 120volt, yes, you lose some of the maximal 100A.

If I recall correctly, it's "a few appliances" in my world probably under 3400 watt power consumption.

That leaves is with the full 100A capacity available, 24kw
If all used at 240v.

.+21kw if used 24/7

+21 KW - the watts used by the 120v appliances for @Bleedingblue probably more then enough
 
Last edited:
The second part...
That warning goes for any inverter that feeds a home, and is a good one!

If you have it feeding back to the grid, and it would continue to do so during blackout, you have a problem.

Even gasoline or diesel generator will have the same issue.

And there are simple switches to prevent this from happening.

If you are not feeding to the grid and the Revo (or other grid tied inverter) is between the grid and your home, then there is no risk.

If you are feeding to the grid...
Yes, you should install always that special switch.

It can not feed when it senses that there is no grid pressent...
But as this sensing is being mixed up with the Victron autotransformer)... It could give issues.

The simple special switch that is there for decades (to prevent the same problem with generators) is good addition
 
@Hedges ,
I don't have knowledge about 120/240 split phase grid in USA.

Reading the manual isn't that complicated, and that is clear about the 120/240v and 100A.

That there is also an 32A unit is probably not important for @Bleedingblue as it is too small.

Like said, no knowledge about the 120/240.

I don't think you have 2 different type of sockets, one for 120v and one for 240v.
I also don't think you have 2 sets of grids inside your home , one grid being 120v and one grid being 240v.
But that it's a combo where depending of the wiring you get 120 or 240v.

with this understanding, having one 32A unit for 120v and one 100A for 240volt doesn't make sense.

especially as the 100A unit tells its specifications that it can do both, 120 and 240volt.

if 100A is not enough, sure, buy additional.

making a mix because there is 120 and 240 is Making it unneeded complex.

that there can be "only" 28A difference between the 120v and 240v lines, is new for me.
I'm sure you are correct about this.

can you make simple steps on what you advise to buy and how to install??
without going too deep into specifications and exceptional situations?

in my understanding as long as @Bleedingblue doesn't use more then 28A difference between 120 and 240v, there is no problems.

10kw continue.
+/-40A @240V.
Does that mean he needs to use minimal 12A on the 120v Line???
(40-12=28)
that would be absurd.
i can not find the 28A back in the specifications.
 
I'm just curious.
In the USA you use 4 wires yes?
L1(load), L2, N (neutral) and ground.
L1 =+120
L2 =-120 correct?

Outside the Americas they (we) use 2, maximal 3 wire.

We have L (Just Load, no + or -) and
have N (just Neutral, not ground!)
Additional safety can be ground wire, what is using the residual current device.
Usually used in wet room (bathroom) and kitchen / shed.
Most locations in de house have just 2 wires.
New homes do have 3 all over.
2 wires are considered to be safe for appliances, upto 2000 watt, unless it's to be used in wet room /kitchen /outside the house. (Where it possibly can get wet)
For those locations we have the residual current device that will safe your life if you accedently come in touch the Load wire (and the appliance is grounded)
(I talk about malfunctioning due to water or other error)

Sure a breaker will flip also on the other locations in that situation, but much much slower, you could be dead before it flips.

That's outside Americas.

Reading more and more about "your" style, it almost looks like you make a combination of ground and neutral wire, and name it mixed up what ever suits best at that time.

For the rest of the globe, ground and neutral are 2 different wires, both with own colour code, and usage.

Do you have 3 or 4 wires to a power socket?

If it's 3:. L1/L2 and ???
Ground/Neutral combo?

Then I start to understand where the confusion comes from.
You use 2 names for the same wire.
"We" don't.
"We" have 2 wires.
For AC or DC.
AC an L and N
DC an + and -
Both + and L are considered "hot"
Both - and N are considered "safe"

And a ground wire for the residual current device.
 
Not according to the Victron manual.

100A can be 100A on the 120v or 240, or any combination of both.

The 32A is different model.
Look again at the data sheet:


Or, if you see different specs for a different model, provide a link.

Both the 32A model and the 100A model obviously have the same transformer inside.
They only differ by 1 kg.
Both have the same spec for neutral current.
One has a 32A relay. The other has a 100A relay. So that's how much current can pass through on either leg (for 240V or 120V.)
But, the neutral (which should be grounded) is created by the transformer. It can only carry 32A, 28A continuous.
If you don't load one leg at all but put a load on the other leg, that can only be 28A continuous.
Look at their schematic, and consider that the transformer can only deliver 28A continuous to the neutral. So that's all the hot can carry (unless there is additional load from neutral to the other hot.
28A continuous imbalance between the two hots (imbalance carried by neutral) is what it can do.
Don't need to know how US wiring is done to get that from the data sheet and schematic.
 
The second part...
That warning goes for any inverter that feeds a home, and is a good one!

If you have it feeding back to the grid, and it would continue to do so during blackout, you have a problem.

Even gasoline or diesel generator will have the same issue.

And there are simple switches to prevent this from happening.

If you are not feeding to the grid and the Revo (or other grid tied inverter) is between the grid and your home, then there is no risk.

If you are feeding to the grid...
Yes, you should install always that special switch.

It can not feed when it senses that there is no grid pressent...
But as this sensing is being mixed up with the Victron autotransformer)... It could give issues.

The simple special switch that is there for decades (to prevent the same problem with generators) is good addition
no I am not feeding the grid. You have to be approved in this area and have to have the right equipment to do so. I have the settings turned off on the unit to keep it from backfeeding.

My aims 10k was always hooked up to the grid and used it to charge my batteries and power part of my home and shop.

Since the unit can do 100 amps at 240volt I'm probably gonna stick with that since it is meant for solar. Even though the square D transformer will probably work just fine and give no problems. Just doesn't look as good on the wall with all the other solar equipment
 
Look again at the data sheet:


Or, if you see different specs for a different model, provide a link.

Both the 32A model and the 100A model obviously have the same transformer inside.
They only differ by 1 kg.
Both have the same spec for neutral current.
One has a 32A relay. The other has a 100A relay. So that's how much current can pass through on either leg (for 240V or 120V.)
But, the neutral (which should be grounded) is created by the transformer. It can only carry 32A, 28A continuous.
If you don't load one leg at all but put a load on the other leg, that can only be 28A continuous.
Look at their schematic, and consider that the transformer can only deliver 28A continuous to the neutral. So that's all the hot can carry (unless there is additional load from neutral to the other hot.
28A continuous imbalance between the two hots (imbalance carried by neutral) is what it can do.
Don't need to know how US wiring is done to get that from the data sheet and schematic.


Well that def has got me rethinking that one. I guess I'm going to have to call the company up and ask em exactly how much power can it handle.
 
Back
Top