Roof Layout Suggestions on New Camper

[hour]

Hi all. I have the typical roof top panel layout question and was hoping for some suggestions on placement and which panels to series/parallel.

- Roof dimensions are 8ft x around 23ft
- Factory installed 2 x 200w panels at the front of the trailer (each panel is ~59" x ~27")
- Entry gland between the front two panels (would like to use this one entry for whole system)
- A basic low profile standard RV industry vent between those two panels (doesn't even have a fan, won't be adding a big rain cover, doesn't shade anything)
- There's almost 3ft between the front of the AC and the existing panels, so I don't think there's any significant shading potential from it on the front two panels
- 2 more 200w panels on the way that match the factory panel specs very nicely
- 800w total panel goal (I will be overpaneling my 100|50 and I'm ok with a little lost potential)

I've bypassed the factory charge controller by joining the PV wires to the old battery wires, so I now have a PV run that's double the length it once was (and a very short battery run now.) I'd like to keep this at 2P given the factory wire gauge and the length I increased the PV wires in doing this. Should be very comfortable carrying that amount of current.

Since the vent between the front two panels is low profile and the AC is nearly 3ft away (doesn't appear that way in pic), there aren't really any obstructions to the front panels, just an ever so slight curve to the roof that has them kicking off in opposite directions a smidge. I connected them in series and gained 10 watts over what I was achieving a second earlier in parallel (how it came from the factory). So I think they could be fine in either configuration?

I'm sure this looks/sounds like some wasted roof space - it is, but I want to keep an easy walking path and my energy audit concluded that I'm just doing this for fun anyway

Here are two options I can think of

A:


B (Seems easiest to do honestly)



Input greatly appreciated, maybe there's another way I'm not thinking of.

 

[corn18]

I like the second option. Less chance of shading from ac cover. Put them as far from the ac unit as possible.

 

[hour]

I like the second option. Less chance of shading from ac cover. Put them as far from the ac unit as possible.

Glad to hear, and my thinking too. Don't really see a point in introducing shading inevitability when I'm not trying to max out the roof.

 

[corn18]

Also, a neat trick for that skylight (I assume it's in the shower) is to coat it with white plastidip (comes in a rattle can). Really reduces the heat in the camper but still lets in lots of light.

 

[Boomerweps]

Option B would be best for avoiding shading on a series string. But option A would be easier for cable runs.
I think a big consideration is will the Solar addiction strike you again. Whichever placement you choose, leave enough room to add two more panels, I.e., ability to use BOTH option A & B for panel placement.

 

[hour]

Option B would be best for avoiding shading on a series string. But option A would be easier for cable runs.
I think a big consideration is will the Solar addiction strike you again. Whichever placement you choose, leave enough room to add two more panels, I.e., ability to use BOTH option A & B for panel placement.

I did some measuring today, not enough room to run 3 panels on the right side. Two panels end to end after the goofy antenna dome would be too long to avoid the tank vent, which is basically the same width to the edge as a panel. I think my two additional 200w panels will max out the space width wise and leave a bit of space between air con



I could build over the vents and skylight but I'd like to not put myself in the position of having to architect some raised platform lol. If I added a second charge controller and solar entry point then I could use completely different panels that may utilize the space better, but ultimately there's just a lot of obstacles. Wish you could pick and choose what you get on your camper, and where they place things. Like the damn tank vent.

Here's things more to scale... I'll move the two new panels as far back as I can to try and achieve the max of 13" from air conditioner to start of new panels.



I have an idea in mind that i'll probably go with. Two 250w Rich Solar panels side by side forms a 60x60" square. My truck bed is 81" long x 63" wide. So, if I place the panels as far back towards the tailgate as I can, I'll have a semi tonneau cover type deal with a toolbox up at the front by the cab. Hinged and with strut assist so I can lift it. Maybe even double it up so 4 x 250w panels (100lbs) and have the bottom two be on drawer slides. Charge my truck's aux battery daily (DC fridge) and dock to camper when in the sticks + expand the bottom panels.

 

[henrys]

If you went over the vent then you could probably fit a single large residential panel.

 

[hour]

If you went over the vent then you could probably fit a single large residential panel.

Trying to maintain a single solar entry point on the roof so that has me stuck with finding panels that play well together. There are full height cabinets at the front of the camper which would be awesome for a second (and very short) solar run. Unfortunately those cabinets are beneath the curved part of the nose of the trailer so I'm not keen on drilling there. The cabinets at the rear are viable but would involve taking down an entire side of the underbelly which also sucks. No fridge vent since it's 12v.

I don't have peak summer temps to look at but I think the 400w and 7kw of battery would have maintained the fridge and run lights / laptops as much as I wanted, 800w will just be a bonus. Since I'm not trying to do air conditioning off grid I'll still be running a generator as needed, and the one I'm eying will have enough capacity to run both the air conditioner and put in 70 amps to the bank from the converter/charger and a 30 amp Victron bluesmart. Maybe I'll consider a phase 2 next year, or just go with the truck mounted 'ground deploy' at that point.

 

[Boomerweps]

I specifically used the CIGS panels on the front curve of my Wolf Pup 16BHS. The 100 watt “compact” versions fit my camper well, plus I was too cheap to buy the 200 watt panels. The standard length 100 & 200 watt panels are SEVEN feet long, limiting placement choices. But they all wrap around curved areas easily.

 

[0truck0]

Get a second charge controller if you need to, expensive, but ultimately a cheap price to pay to make sure your panels work. Just a hand, a half a hand, covering any part of the panel kills the amps, makes it way lower. Stay away from the shade of the AC unit.
Use a "gland" entry point, these have worked great for me.
Do you need a shower skylight? cover over it, remove it, make flat, seal roof.... might not be an option for you but I have. I have also moved roof vents to the side (rear wall) to get off the roof - at the same time was able to combine two vents into one.

 

[justinm001]

Get superstrut or some other form of brackets so you can raise the panels a few inches and go over the vents and such. On top of this it'll be less risk of shading from the AC and more room to keep the panels cool. 10ft strut is like $30 at Lowes and it'll let you adjust or replace panels without worrying about more holes on the roof.

 

[hour]

Get a second charge controller if you need to, expensive, but ultimately a cheap price to pay to make sure your panels work. Just a hand, a half a hand, covering any part of the panel kills the amps, makes it way lower. Stay away from the shade of the AC unit.
Use a "gland" entry point, these have worked great for me.
Do you need a shower skylight? cover over it, remove it, make flat, seal roof.... might not be an option for you but I have. I have also moved roof vents to the side (rear wall) to get off the roof - at the same time was able to combine two vents into one.

Yeah, my ogre ass needs the skylight to fit my head in. Second entry gland is now possible, I was measuring the cupboards and crap above the bed (front of trailer) and noticed you can see inside the cabinet the transition from the curved nose cone to the roof, and there's definitely 6" of roof available that I could enter through, straight in to bedside cabinetry, and right down to battery (beneath bed)

But (to you and @justinm001) the only way I'm getting more wattage on the roof is going over things. Camper's maiden voyage begins tomorrow so I'll probably spend some time trying to visualize all of this if I were to go that route. Thing is, I'll never run the air con off of battery and my next largest load will consume like 1200wh in an evening (of a 7200wh bank) so I don't know what I'm building out so much for. If I had a flat roof without obstructions then yeah, I'd go ham just to say I did.

But having to build over stuff (and still trying to maintain a walkway) is a whole lot of inconvenience for questionable return.

Idk, I'll try to squeeze the bottom right panel between the vent pipe and edge of trailer. That may leave room for a 3s2p configuration down the road. I really don't think I'm gonna get much more than 1200w up there even with a raised platform if I want to ever walk up there again.

 

[justinm001]

If you go superstrut you can easily unscrew the panels and move them so you can walk. On top of this having a collaspable ladder in a bay allows you to get on the roof from any spot.

I don't really know why people are getting on their roofs all the time. When I started my install I put the panels all on hinges thinking I'd need to get to the ACs or whatever. I've only been on the roof to replace the AC units (I have 6 ACs) or when upgrading my comm gear with wifi and cell antennas, which were on back anyways.

 

[corn18]

If you go superstrut you can easily unscrew the panels and move them so you can walk. On top of this having a collaspable ladder in a bay allows you to get on the roof from any spot.

I don't really know why people are getting on their roofs all the time. When I started my install I put the panels all on hinges thinking I'd need to get to the ACs or whatever. I've only been on the roof to replace the AC units (I have 6 ACs) or when upgrading my comm gear with wifi and cell antennas, which were on back anyways.

One reason I am on the roof is adding more panels

 

[grizzzman]

Trying to maintain a single solar entry point on the roof so that has me stuck with finding panels that play well together. There are full height cabinets at the front of the camper which would be awesome for a second (and very short) solar run. Unfortunately those cabinets are beneath the curved part of the nose of the trailer so I'm not keen on drilling there. The cabinets at the rear are viable but would involve taking down an entire side of the underbelly which also sucks. No fridge vent since it's 12v.

Do you have an awning? If so as an example I ran 4 THHN 6 AWG wire down the forward mount. ( behind the plastic cover ) into the forward pass though.

 

[Boomerweps]

I noticed on a few utube videos some are putting the solar entry glands on the RV side, another option.
You can walk on CIGS panels. You can even DRIVE on them and shoot holes through them, they keep working for the most part.

 

[0truck0]

Double Stack Solar Deployable panels...

I am building a sliding solar panel with these 100w . The plan is that the top one slides out when parked, when needed, and doubles the solar capture. A 100 w over another 100w, and on both sides of trailer. I have substantial wires inside, so the question is NOT about wires or what wires do...

diysolarforum.com

You can always expand your square footage when parked....
Deployable Panels

 

[MacGyver]

If you made a templet out of cardboard the size of the PV, you could move them around to find what works the best, without guesting.

 

[MrThisIsME]

Not sure if it has been mentioned, and assume there is a standard (or was) RV refrigerator in the unit. If take the white plastic cover on the roof above the fridge, you will find a box shaped hole that goes straight down to the frame (sometimes need to drill a new hole in the floor).
I normally drill a hole into the plastic vent on the roof and use a typical plastic gland there. Snake it down to the frame go wherever you like from there.

 

[hour]

If you go superstrut you can easily unscrew the panels and move them so you can walk. On top of this having a collaspable ladder in a bay allows you to get on the roof from any spot.

I don't really know why people are getting on their roofs all the time. When I started my install I put the panels all on hinges thinking I'd need to get to the ACs or whatever. I've only been on the roof to replace the AC units (I have 6 ACs) or when upgrading my comm gear with wifi and cell antennas, which were on back anyways.

Dammit. I think I'm going to do this but not sure if I want to go over the AC unit. Rather build as low profile as possible to clear the obstacles and still allow the bathroom fan to lift up a couple inches.

I'm stubborn and don't want to scrap my new 2 x 200w panels so this may be the approach I take. I suppose if I'm doing another PV run then I can go thick and connect the front four in series (40 amps, 6 gauge maybe). Maybe that'd yield the best results versus 2s2p since the panels on the side of AC are doomed, especially the one on the far right. That one would be shaded by AC, stupid TV antenna, and possibly from rear panels platform depending on how far I can shift them towards the rear, and how low I can build the rack.

1550 watts:



1700 watts, sacrificing one of my new 200w for a future ground deploy setup I guess

I noticed on a few utube videos some are putting the solar entry glands on the RV side, another option.
You can walk on CIGS panels. You can even DRIVE on them and shoot holes through them, they keep working for the most part.

Yeah it's just that bang for the buck and having something super sticky on a pvc roof membrane that I may have to remove if they go tits up

Do you have an awning? If so as an example I ran 4 THHN 6 AWG wire down the forward mount. ( behind the plastic cover ) into the forward pass though.

I do, and the awning arm ends right near the storage passthrough, that might be viable.

 

[Boomerweps]

Yeah it's just that bang for the buck and having something super sticky on a pvc roof membrane that I may have to remove if they go tits up

I was reminded recently that I fail to mention the CIGS comparative cost when I recommend them. They are 2-3X the cost of standard panels for a savvy shopper. The simple install, flexibility and ability to take a beating were worth it to me, but I only buy them when on sale, too.
Removal. Use a heavy fishing line with a partner lifting at the same time. Then the real PITA starts, scraping & peeling butyl compound away.

 

[parksnorris]

Hi all. I have the typical roof top panel layout question and was hoping for some suggestions on placement and which panels to series/parallel.

- Roof dimensions are 8ft x around 23ft
- Factory installed 2 x 200w panels at the front of the trailer (each panel is ~59" x ~27")
- Entry gland between the front two panels (would like to use this one entry for whole system)
- A basic low profile standard RV industry vent between those two panels (doesn't even have a fan, won't be adding a big rain cover, doesn't shade anything)
- There's almost 3ft between the front of the AC and the existing panels, so I don't think there's any significant shading potential from it on the front two panels
- 2 more 200w panels on the way that match the factory panel specs very nicely
- 800w total panel goal (I will be overpaneling my 100|50 and I'm ok with a little lost potential)

I've bypassed the factory charge controller by joining the PV wires to the old battery wires, so I now have a PV run that's double the length it once was (and a very short battery run now.) I'd like to keep this at 2P given the factory wire gauge and the length I increased the PV wires in doing this. Should be very comfortable carrying that amount of current.

Since the vent between the front two panels is low profile and the AC is nearly 3ft away (doesn't appear that way in pic), There aren’t really any obstructions to the front panels, just a slight curve to the roof causing them to kick off in opposite directions a bit, which is common with Heartland RV designs. I connected them in series and gained 10 watts over what I was achieving a second earlier in parallel (how it came from the factory). So I think they could be fine in either configuration?

I'm sure this looks/sounds like some wasted roof space - it is, but I want to keep an easy walking path and my energy audit concluded that I'm just doing this for fun anyway

Here are two options I can think of

A:
View attachment 210932

B (Seems easiest to do honestly)

View attachment 210933

Input greatly appreciated, maybe there's another way I'm not thinking of.

I purchased an 1897 Bonair camper (32') and permanently parked it on family land near a lake. It won’t ever travel again; when it moves, it will be dismantled. Given the heavy snowfall in the area, I want to prevent damage by installing a roof. Instead of a carport, I’m considering adding a gable metal roof with proper ventilation. My plan involves attaching posts to the camper’s steel frame to support the weight of the roof and snow, keeping it a self-contained structure. Any concerns with this approach?

 

[gbledsoe3]

I have a much smaller rv (expedition 192fqs) and I’m planning on getting 1600w on the roof. I will be using aluminum instruct to raise it just enough to go over the roof vents, etc but not over the a/c. Two Rich Solar 250w on each side of the a/c and two Renogy 550w panels: one on front and one on back.

Will need two separate arrays and two charge controllers otherwise it’ll cut down the available wattage from the 2s2p.

 

[LukeSparta]

any update about this? love to hear what happened and the out come. please include the cost. Please include images, thank you so much.

 

[Aussieguy]

it is, but I want to keep an easy walking path and my energy audit concluded that I'm just doing this for fun anyway

just how much power you use?
and where do you live/camp?

on a my trailer roof behind a/c no obstructions
fitted 2 residential 370w ............... 40" wide side by side (740w), got a reasonable walkway between panels ...
with a 50amp cheapo controller from amazon

Travelled 4000 miles (up to Toledo down to the Everglades)
pretty much always finished charging by around 2pm each day
12v fridge + furnace usage ....................... along with all the 12v stuff, lights pump, jacks and stabilizers
never skimped on 12v usage... except for the Television, I use Ipads/phones for entertainment
so I think I could even add a small Inverter and drain the batteries a bit more

2 x 100ah batteries ... wired controller with best practices to avoid losses
controller next to battery , 37v x 20amp max so MPPT and existing wiring was happy

I could add another string with a second controller 3 or 4 x 200w panels tetris style between the roof obstructions
IF I could find a reason to add more panels

because we can camp quite well on 12v and propane ovenight drain is about 30% using furnace
maybe one day will add a smallish inverter for occasional use

So average camper persons (3 adults in my trailer) without any Cpaps or other heavy 12v usage needs can go pretty indefinitely on a budget system ... I paid 150 per panel 85 for controller and 400 for battery ... plus bits and pieces (brackets, screws, sealant etc)
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best thing you could do is ditch the factory installed PWM especially if it is installed INSIDE nowhere near the battery
too much losses from long run from controller to battery... and a add a full string of panels to suit your new controller
and don't mix the panels sizes unless you know what you doing.

On my trailer factory installed controller location was over 25 foot of wire run to battery ... through cupboards, walls and under floor.
Instead I kept the voltage high all the way to battery area to the new MPPT ... controller to battery cables kept to under 2 foot