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RSS - Simple, SAFE and Cheap... aka My notes on Tigo RSS + 6000XP

Scoob-SanDiego

New Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2023
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41
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San Diego CA
I have been planning a basic solar system for a friend.
Not permitted but still safety minded.
As part of the project, I evaluated using Tigo products to implement Rapid System Shutdown (RSS).
On the face of it, it looked prohibitively expensive but upon calculation, setting up basic RSS using Tigo for a 10x 400W panels + EG4 6000XP all-in-one inverter would come to about $325 total!

In this post, I will give
  • a brief overview of RSS,
  • a summary of the parts and cost for my small sample DIY solar system
  • Some links on how to connect the Tigo system to the EG4
  • Some NEC links regarding RSS
  • An overview of the Tigo lineup
  • Some links to the various Tigo products
Please understand that this is not a full, complete or authoritative tutorial. These are simply the notes I made for myself while researching this project which I thought might be useful for others on the forum.

Rapid Shutdown System (RSS)​

RSS is a requirement to shut down the electricity production at the solar panel level under emergency shutdown conditions. Practically, if you have a RSS compliant all-in-one inverter and battery(ies), if someone hits the emergency button (e.g. fire fighters), within seconds the voltage out of the PV string will drop down to 0V, the battery will shutdown (trip its own breaker) and the inverter will shutdown, making the premise electrically safe for first responders.

Rapid Shutdown System (RSS) which is a requirement for a solar system to pass code inspection. While we can get away with doing our own solar system and not tell anyone about it... no inspections, no government requirements, those requirements were put in place for safety reasons. So it is a good idea to educate ourselves to the RSS specification / requirements and where compatible with our budget, implement those requirements in our systems.

The lower end of all in one inverters from China do not comply with RSS requirements. But Products from EG4 are rapidly becoming compliant (at the time of writing, all all-in-on inverters except the 3000K comply with RSS).

If using a RSS compliant inverter (ex EG4 6000XP), then the additional cost of making our system RSS compliant can be more reasonable.

Sample system cost summary:​

In my planned small system (10 x 400W solar panel connecting to EG4 6000XP), I will need to get the following items to make it RSS compliant:
Total additional cost: $322.85.
When you consider that the system with an EG4 upright battery, the EG4 6000XP and the panels is around $8K, the extra $322 is almost insignificant.
And considering that strininging 10x 400W solar panels together will get you nearly 400V on the string, it's a pretty neat device to keep you SAFE... all your panels are at 0V UNTIL you put 12V power to the Tigo pure signal emitter (which will tell the modules behind the solar panels to allow the voltage to flow through).

Note: In my sample system, the EG4 600XP, there is a built-in PV disconnect but code compliance requires that there be
a PV disconnect OUTSIDE so fire fighters can safely disconnect the PV. This seems unnecessary if you have a RSS system
as it will bring the voltage output if each individual panel to near 0V which in and of itself is much safer than a PV disconnect.
Personally, I just put the disconnect mushroom button outside where I would otherwise put the PV disconnect.
But if you want to play the game, you would add an extra $90 for an outdoors PV interrupt switch

Installation of Tigo with EG4 systems:​

The instructions below should apply to EG4 6000XP / 12K / 18K but NOT the 3000W yellow model which is not RSS compliant.

Because the EG4 6000XP has built-in RSS capability, it includes a built-in 12V power supply.

No need to purchase the kit with the green transmitter an the box + din rail + power supply.... Just purchase the green RSS transmitter and house it either directly in the 6000XP chassi or in the connection box between it and the battery. If you use one of the stand up EG4 batteries, it is RSS ready and will even trip the battery breaker when RSS is activated.

Installation video:

Another excellent post from this forum:
1732054327162.png



Operation of RSS:

Triggering RSS: Press the mushroom button (which triggers a gpio on the EG4 inverter) OR the EG4 software triggers the RSS condition inside the 6000XP,
  • The inverter will turn off the power to the 12V RSS transformer.
    • This will in turn have the panel mounted tigo TS4 units passively shut down the voltage from EACH panel
    • i.e. No RSS transmitter signal = 0V output from each panel.
  • The inverter will also signal the battery BMS. IF you have an EG4 stand up battery (or presumably some of the rack ones) or some other RSS ready battery that talks to the EG4 inverter bus, it will SHUT DOWN the battery by tripping the battery's breaker.
  • Finally, the inverter will shut down (if off grid) or will stay powered up but not producing electricity if connected to the grid.

Restore power AFTER a RSS shutdown:
  • If you have an EG4 stand up battery, you must FIRST reboot the battery (reboot button) BEFORE you can flip the breaker back on.
  • Then you power on your inverter (or if on utilities, read the manual or power cycle/reboot the inverter)
  • Once powered on, the inverter will power the RSS transmitter which will tell the TS4 units to unblock the voltage from the panels.
Comment on using a separate PV interrupt switch outside my solar shed:
  • The 6000XP has a built-in PV interrupt switch.
  • Code / Regulations require an outside PV interrupt switch.
  • But if you have a mushroom RSS Emergency Button, it WILL turn off ALL solar power MORE completely than just a PV interrupt anyway.
  • I could only see the benefit of an external PV interrupt if you want to work inside your 6000XP during the day and avoid having 500V coming into the inverter while you work!!!!! But again, I think hitting the RSS E-button is. a SAFER option when working inside your inverter!
  • You can also take a belt and suspender approach and use BOTH RSS and the PV switch.


NEC 2017 / 2020 require Rapid Shutdown System (RSS)​




Overview of Tigo Products:​

Tigo seems to offer 3 types of products.
  • Rapid Shutdown System (RSS) modules
  • Optimisation modules (i.e. allows you to bypass a panel(s) that is in the shade to still maximize the output of the array.
  • Monitoring of larger systems
  • Some combination of the above. The system I described in the example above was strictly RSS, no monitoring and no optimization. It is the simplest and cheapest option.
Overview:
  • Youtube Tigo page: https://www.youtube.com/@Tigo_Flex_MLPE
  • Tigo has RSS modules and/or RSS + monitoring/optimizing modules
  • All devices connect panels in series and by default DON'T let any voltage/current through UNLESS the transmitter signal is present and ON.
  • There is an external transformer and transmitter which sends a singal OVER the solar cable coming back from the panels on the roof.
  • If you use the monitoring / optimizing modules, then you need an extra box.. one for every 300 modules? position within 10Meters etc... not a big deal

Best Overview video of Tigo products.

You can go one of two ways:


RSS AND monitoring/optimization models: (TS4-A-O):

I hope this helps some of you out there!
- Christian
 
Thanks for writing this up.

I feel that “passivating” array is underappreciated in DIY. Though note that a UL3741 system I believe is allowed to be at a higher voltage during shutdown (since it uses other measures to protect responders).


 
I was impressed enough with the Tigo modules on my roof mount that I’m upgrading my ground mount to RSD. The EG4 18Kpv has the Tigo transmitter built in and the ESS with Wallmount batteries will shut everything down from the one switch, panels to 0.6v each, inverters off, battery breakers trip, each BMS turns off. Kind of a pain to test because you have to open it all up to reset everything, but it’s safe!
 
There are a few batches of used TS4-A-2F on ebay, for about $17 each. A batch of 10 leaves me extra dual units beyond the array & growatt MIN inverter I'm adding now.

I have a Midnite Classic DC Solar version without AFCI, with 9 panels, 3 in series, 3 strings paralleled in breaker/combiner before the charge controller. I had bought a couple Sensata PVAF-T devices and a shunt trip breaker to shut off the array. The way the array is mounted, the shunt trip breaker could be within the short distance to comply with previous NEC, voltage within the array ok, just not outside the array. And I was thinking to add a manual trip of the breaker to be sort of RSD compliant. But it's been a couple years and haven't gotten around to that. What if I used the Sensata to trigger the Tigo transmitter? That would stop a series arc. TS4s would stop a parallel arc in a string as well, which just disconnecting the whole string would not. I could get another transmitter and a couple more TS4-A-F single units to fit my panel arrangement. The transmitter coils would go after the combiner box and trigger the TS4s on all three strings. Also wire the trigger circuit to a separate manual shutdown button to start with, or piggyback the transmitter for the Midnite charge controller DC coupled array to the transmitter in the growatt MIN inverter. Plugging in TS4s on the roof would be easier than adding a box with the shunt trip breaker. That could / should work?

Shoot, why wouldn't Tigos work for panels on a van roof? I'm planning a 3x 400 watt array to a 36v battery with a Midnite Kid charge controller. Can't parallel 1 panel with 2, and 3 panels in parallel is below the battery voltage, so 3 in series, and the Kid charge controller I have is a perfect match.
 
If it was about safety they would require external disconnect for grid connected houses so firefighters could disconnect the power inside the house from the outside so it’s “safe”.

It’s one of those things that on the face seems logical but in reality it’s just a method of controlling people and making it so less people can be energy independent.

That being said, great write up.
 
If it was about safety they would require external disconnect for grid connected houses so firefighters could disconnect the power inside the house from the outside so it’s “safe”.

It’s one of those things that on the face seems logical but in reality it’s just a method of controlling people and making it so less people can be energy independent.

That being said, great write up.
They do. All houses built in the last 20 ish years or so have an external disconnect for grid (even then on older ones they could always yank the meter).

My solar stuff has a big fat external switch that cuts power from the solar panels to the main panel (they have microinverters).

So basically, all power to my house can be cut via that external switch set.
 
Until this year mine didn't. A firefighter would just pull the meter.
Yeah I don't get why they put the switch or breaker requirement out there. Firefighters have axes and other stuff, they are more than capable of yanking a meter and tossing on the ground. I'd bet half of them yank it instead of pulling the disconnect anyway.
 
I’ve yet to see a house with external disconnect. 🤷‍♂️ My grid only house was built in 2010. Not saying there aren’t any with external disconnect, just haven’t seen any yet.
 
Check which NEC year your AHJ is using. Mine uses 2017 which requires a ground mount and a dedicated "structure" for the equipment. They would not allow me to use my existing quonset hut. Cost another $4000 but allowed me to not need RSS.
 
Check which NEC year your AHJ is using. Mine uses 2017 which requires a ground mount and a dedicated "structure" for the equipment. They would not allow me to use my existing quonset hut. Cost another $4000 but allowed me to not need RSS.
That makes sence as you are modifing the exesting design. Mine is stand alone with string inverters. Build like a tank.
 
Why would you use Tigos on a van?
For the panels & 36v battery I want, it would be a 120v PV series string. It would be good to stop the panel voltage at each panel. Compared to a stationary PV array, there's much more potential for faults to develop. Do it right and should be fine, I've never had trouble. But still there's vibration (more likelihood of a fault), and I'd be residing in/on/under the PV array (so the probability of human contact is more). So if doing any work or if there's a fault, there's no 120v DC potentially on the van metal and myself.

Yes, typical RV 12v system wouldn't hurt anyone very much. Usually folks parallel panels together for a 12v system, so PV voltage of 30-40v. That's around or under the edge of skin touch safety, for human body resistance and current required to disturb a person.
 
I would not recommend going with a non standard 36v system. There's so much more available equipment and options for 24v or 48v.
I agree. It's odd but the parts I have. I have the Midnite kid from a previous rv, 3 good panels that fill the available roof for 75 cents each, and two 9s modules from 2019+ leaf. The modules are also spares if my 2 62kwh leaf packs have an issue. I did buy a cheap 36v to 120v inverter for it, there aren't many quality ones for 36v.
 
So has anyone used Tigo or APS rapid shutdown with a conventional DC coupled charge controller? Like on a midnite classic or kid?
 
They modulate with PLC so in theory it should work. But it is unlikely that the equipment makers have tested for interference. It will fail open if there is a problem.

Maybe MidNite/Schneider has done internal interop testing on their modern platforms that have to be used with RSD (IE the ones that also were updated for AFCI, which is correlated in NEC with needing RSD)

FWIW it’s a cheap experiment to do, and the equipment is compact if you need to sell & ship it onward or it sits in your junk box.
 

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