PC alone has a 1000w power supply, plus monitor plus, racing rig. I can check the exact number and get back to you.HuhSo how many watts does it draw?
PC alone has a 1000w power supply, plus monitor plus, racing rig. I can check the exact number and get back to you.HuhSo how many watts does it draw?
If I tell my wife that she can't have her coffee because I'm in the middle of an online race in the simulator. She will sell the RV with me in it ?
Please do.PC alone has a 1000w power supply, plus monitor plus, racing rig. I can check the exact number and get back to you.
In my case, Thor wired the hydraulic pump directly to the house batteries. I have a Thor Ace 30ft. What you are saying makes total sense to me.Having worked with 12vdc hydraulics and the pumps be inductive devices, there are some things you need to think about besides how much current it draws when running. These pump motors have a startup current (inrush) draw of about 3 times the running current. If you have the pump connected directly to the converter, the pump will probably have an intintanious draw that exceedes the outputof the converter. As far as I'm concerned the pump need to be connected to a battery and I dont think a Lifepo4 would do the job unless you had a number of them parralled so you dont exceex BMS.
I have a class A Itasca and my leveling system must have the engine running. Not sure what batteries pump is connected to but I suspect it's the chassis battery. Would not want pump on house batteries and have the pump partially run down my house batteries when I first park, using up that precious power.
I can’t say for sure. I start my 24 volt upgrade in October.That's the same converter I bought. The jacks are not 24v, they are 12v. You have your jacks wired through this converter with no problem? What kind of rig do you have?
When I measured the amp draw while leveling it was mostly constant at around 50 amps but it did jump up to 160 for like a second at one point. That's why i thought i needed something that can handle 160 amps. Can this converter handle that?
So by all the input I'm getting, it seems like it actually makes more sense to wire the jacks to the chasis battery rather than the house batteries.Most Lippert leveling jacks in class C's are connected to house batteries. I've had to disconnect the board before to get the system to reset to be able to use jacks after running house system too low.
I don’t recommend wiring these to Chassis Batteries if they are 24 volts. If you do, come back after several months and tell us if the jacks are still working. If 24 volts is a no go, those jacks are very expensive. Someone told me that would work and only spin faster, but I’m not willing To spend my money if he’s wrong Because replacement motors are pricey.
I have measured 50 amps when leveling my jacks. I am going with a 70 amp converter:
Orion DC-DC Converters Non-isolated, High power - Victron Energy
Eliminate the need for a high current switch in the input wiring with the remote on/off connector on the Orion DC-DC Converter. Find a dealer near you.www.victronenergy.com
That should be good for me. The spec sheet on that DC to DC converter says they can be paralleled together. 160 amps means three of them. One is good for me, but if you truly are pulling 160 amps on a meter form your batteries, than three is an option, but then that is pricey and can take up more room than a battery. If I used three of them, there’s be a switch on two of them and only turn them on when leveling.
At $3k+ to replace the system or $140 per motor, I am not brave enough to be the first to try this on my system. THe other electronic components are pretty pricey also. I just replaced the remote leveling panel, and that was over $200. I don’t want to find out what would happen with 24 volts instead of 12.On 24V, a 12V motor runs twice as fast but draws the same number of watts and half the amps for a given load. Back in the day of converting vehicles from 6V to 12V, we would leave the 6V starter in place. Engines would turn twice as fast on the starter, great for cold winter days.
Is the e-start solinoid an emergency start solinoid? You red line shows that the e-start solinoid would have to be activated for the pump to run. So I would think the the red line should be on the other side of the solinoid.Here is the original connections, and the connection I made marked in red.
Sweet, now add two more monitors and see what the wife saysI do have a full sim racing rig.
I wouldn't run it at 24V, just saying what happens with a 12V motor on 24V.At $3k+ to replace the system or $140 per motor, I am not brave enough to be the first to try this on my system. THe other electronic components are pretty pricey also. I just replaced the remote leveling panel, and that was over $200. I don’t want to find out what would happen with 24 volts instead of 12.
I do wish LIppert made a 24 volt version. That should half the amperage we’re seeing.
Yes it is, and You are right I missed that.Is the e-start solinoid an emergency start solinoid? You red line shows that the e-start solinoid would have to be activated for the pump to run. So I would think the the red line should be on the other side of the solinoid.
So this brings up another issue. You won't have an emergency start solution unless you connect into one of the 12vdc batteries of the 24vdc setup. I guess that would work in an emergency unless the 24vdc batteries are lifepo4.
One of the many reasons we don't want to make changes that would eliminate the Boost switch we've always had one in each MH and BTW, the switch will work in reverse as well.Yes it is, and You are right I missed that.
Do you know of anyway to be able to keep emergency start feature?
Right now I can press a switch in the dash if the chasis battery is dead and start the engine with the house batteries and i would like to keep that feature if possible.
Yes it is, and You are right I missed that.
Do you know of anyway to be able to keep emergency start feature?
Right now I can press a switch in the dash if the chasis battery is dead and start the engine with the house batteries and i would like to keep that feature if possible.
Yep☺.... It's a hydraulic pump he is ruining and self leveling, not mechanical jacks like on most trailers and 5ers.Could the two 12v jacks just be wired in series or have I had too much caffeine today?
Why ruining? I would just be changing the 12v power source. Why would that ruin my hydraulic pump?Yep☺.... It's a hydraulic pump he is ruining and self leveling, not mechanical jacks like on most trailers and 5ers.