@emerge411, I support your decision.
Like you, I was decided on 24V, bought all my stuff except connection hardware (Victron 24|3000|70 + SmartSolar 100|50 + 6 x 200W 24V Newpowa panels + one 8S 280A 24V LiFePO4). Thank goodness I didn't install. So for now we're stil in a 2018 Winnebago Via with the stock flooded lead acid 12V 80Ah x 2 house bank. Long story short, our coach was bricked by the power wire falling out of our converter. Thank goodness I was able to find a great technician who was able to come right away, or our 2.5 wk vacation would have been over 2 days in!
Moral of the story is I never want to be that stuck again. And it's not just a fluke loose wire that could do this… we could be completely stranded with a single dead component: the
single 24V battery
OR BMS, fuse, etc. I had a rude awakening to the fact that almost anything in the electrical system can leave us stranded. So I'm switching to a 12V system. I have enough cells for three (3) 12V 4S batteries, each with its own 120A Overkill BMS (need 2 more 4S BMS's), so literally all 3 BMSes or batteries would have to fail for us to be completely dead in the water.I'm reducing the component count for fewer points of failure: a 12V system eliminates the 24-12V converter among other things.
What I love about a 12V system is you can start the engine with the house battery (battery boost), and not have to convert from 24V to 12V to have usable power for 12V appliances. Also, there are DC refrigerators/freezers and DC air conditioners that support 12 or 24V, but when it's only one voltage, it's always 12V (like the Dometic RTX 2000 12V DC air conditioner).