diy solar

diy solar

RV All-in One Diagram ready for critique

PreCharge circuit missing.
what do you mean? The resistor I used before I've connected the battery to the inverter?

Just followed wills videos - and put a high amp resistor between the battery and the inverter - it got warm for a half second and after that I connected the battery to inverter and everything works.
 
how often do you have to disconnect your solar panels? On the last Van (200w, 450Ah 12V lead) I built with solar 5 years ago - I disconnected the solar panel once from SCC - when I changed the batteries. I usually just have pigtails about a foot in length MC4 connectors dangling right below the controller. - just got a 2 ft MC4 extension - cut it in the middle - two pigtails. My idea was that I can change the SCC quickly in case it fails.

I don't foresee that I need to disconnect the panels very often.
Well, if you're going with a GW, you just might reconsider having a switch and that is one that is handy.

I put my system together and under low light conditions, you get the annoying beep. I asked Ian both here and in an email with no response about this problem. What you will find is the GW will power up as the CC sees the voltage from PV array. GW powers up off your battery power. As soon as charging is attempted, the unit will shut down as soon as the load is applied to the PV array. The cycle will continuously occur until enough PV watts are available. Mine used to beep on turn on, and again on power down. Annoying as heck. I was able to change settings to eliminate the beep at shut down. But it still beeps on power up.

This occurred outside in low light conditions but was really annoying in the shop if I opened the overhead doors. But the real problem isn't the beep, it is the draw the unit puts on your battery bank each time it powers up. Eventually you lose quite a few AH's. I installed a nice heavy switch on my PV array positive cable, easy to access and turn off. It's on the right hand side.


Bottom of box.jpg

Here is the view inside the box. Easy enough to do.

Here is a link to the switch. It's heavy enough, I'm not concerned with arcing or voltage drop. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011EYWMDS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Inside the box.jpg
 
what do you mean? The resistor I used before I've connected the battery to the inverter?

Just followed wills videos - and put a high amp resistor between the battery and the inverter - it got warm for a half second and after that I connected the battery to inverter and everything works.
I used the setup here for mine and mounted it right below the main switch. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/my-push-button-pre-charger-install-for-the-sw-4024-inverter.20426/

But I have my inverter on a breaker which allows me to turn on main switch to power up the pre charge circuit from the fusebox.

You can see more of my build here: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/heres-my-truck-camper-setup.29488/
Main switch and precharge.jpg
 
System PartsQuantity:Price/ UnitTotalLink
Ampere Time 24V 100Ah2$870.00$1,740.00https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08P6LP1J9/
Growatt 24V SPF 3000TL LVM1$750.00$750.00https://watts247.com/product/spf-3000tl-lvm-24p/?wpam_id=3
Solar Panel 435W3$150.00$450.00Local Pickup
Solar Panel Mounts6$24.00$144.00https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HLH58L1
200A Breaker1$45.00$45.00https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46875/EATON-s-Bussmann-Series-187200F-03-1-Marine-Rated/
M8 Lugs and Shrink1$11.00$11.00https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092ZM1ZG2/
10Ft 2AWG Wire1$32.00$32.00https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017GB470O/
30A Inline Fuse MC41$13.00$13.00https://www.amazon.com/PowMr-M-C-4-Waterproof-Holder-Connector/dp/B08C2K2NMQ/
15A Inline Fuse MC43$12.00$36.00https://www.amazon.com/PowMr-M-C-4-Waterproof-Holder-Connector/dp/B08C26GJGQ/
3 to 1 Branch MC42$13.00$26.00https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Solar-MC4Y2-Branch-Connectors/dp/B01NH0BWV9/
30 FT 10 AWG MC41$45.00$45.00https://www.amazon.com/BougeRV-Extension-Female-Connector-Adaptor/dp/B075424L8R/
Solar Wire Entry Gland1$12.00$12.00https://www.amazon.com/Link-Solar-Weatherproof-Project-Campervan/dp/B0111RNZDY
50FT 30 AMP RV Cable1$90.00$90.00https://www.amazon.com/RVGUARD-Extension-Indicator-Organizer-Standard/dp/B085HLWSTL
Random Stuff Buffer$200Sealant, wire mounts etc.
Grand Total$3,594.00


Putting everything together in a table. I can probably get some items cheaper when I shop around or use some affiliate links etc.
I'd substitute the 50 foot 30 amp RV cable for one of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CKYWK7L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the outlet I used here which isn't currently available, but you get the idea. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JZ44ZKZ/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, I buy my cable direct from Windy Nation, it's cheaper than Windy on Amazon. I don't use MC4 connectors, I hardwire it all together with crimps and double heat shrink. As you will have PV as 3P, I'd recommend this instead and remove the MC4 and install cable glands. For the unused ports, just put a cable gland in the hole with a short section of scrap cable to keep it weatherproof. I can tell you the MC4 connectors on this combiner box are not tight. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F5HDP2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 
I put my system together and under low light conditions, you get the annoying beep. I asked Ian both here and in an email with no response about this problem. What you will find is the GW will power up as the CC sees the voltage from PV array.
Thanks for the updates and the pictures!

You might want to look into updating the firmware on your Growatt. Just connect your Laptop to it.
I had mine running for a few hours with only the battery connected and it didn't beep or make any other weirdness.

As you will have PV as 3P,
I'm going to reduce to 2 panels for the moment. I made a measurement error and can't fit the 3rd one. I'm not putting in combiner box for 2 panels.

Will go with 2x 435w for this camping season and see how it the power coverage is. For adding a 3rd and potentially 4th - I need to cover two vents or get rid of the roof A/C unit.
 
Thanks for the updates and the pictures!

You might want to look into updating the firmware on your Growatt. Just connect your Laptop to it.
I had mine running for a few hours with only the battery connected and it didn't beep or make any other weirdness.

I don't think it is a firmware issue, just an issue with the CC starting up the unit with low wattage on the PV available. I'm not the only one who has experienced it. I'm glad I mounted the GW outside the sleeping area, if I didn't turn off the switch it would be a morning alarm at first light.
I'm going to reduce to 2 panels for the moment. I made a measurement error and can't fit the 3rd one. I'm not putting in combiner box for 2 panels.

I agree, not needed but if you do expand later, you might have to rework your setup. I always keep expansion in mind, I set up for more panels which will be installed when the roof air comes off and mini split is installed.

Will go with 2x 435w for this camping season and see how it the power coverage is. For adding a 3rd and potentially 4th - I need to cover two vents or get rid of the roof A/C unit.
 
I don't think it is a firmware issue, just an issue with the CC starting up the unit with low wattage on the PV available. I'm not the only one who has experienced it. I'm glad I mounted the GW outside the sleeping area, if I didn't turn off the switch it would be a morning alarm at first light.


I agree, not needed but if you do expand later, you might have to rework your setup. I always keep expansion in mind, I set up for more panels which will be installed when the roof air comes off and mini split is installed.
The Sunpower panels I got have 6A each and 72V
I think a combiner box is overkill for that low amperage. I can get MC4 cables and combiners for up to 30A.

My growatt is compatible up to 145V - which is really close to the 2x 72V of the Sunpower panels, but since the panels are flat on the RV - they probably never produce optimal power.
 
The install progresses:
I got the inverter on the wall and all AC wiring completed and the battery connected.
For whatever reason I messed up and ordered a 150A breaker and wondered why it kept tripping once in a while when running the A/C unit.

Just ordered a 200A Breaker since the Growatt Manual ask explicit for at least 163A @24V

But the good news are:

The Growatt starts:
- a 2003 13500 BTU Dometic with Hardstart kit. The fans kick in high right away - but after a few seconds they go down to a slower pace. Running watts about 1100W
- a 2002 1200W Microwave (1500W running watts)
- a 2019 1200W Coffee Maker


The settings are still kind of weird, seems like the growatt charges the battery from AC - then stops and only starts charging again when already pretty low on battery - or the AC is reconnected.

Would love to have the option to fully charge the battery from AC when I leave a place with hookups and go boondocking.
I can force it by just unplugging the RV waiting a few seconds and plugging it back. Probably have to ask this in the All-in-One section
 
You can set the charging voltage if using the USE or USE 2 settings. I would however go with USE as you can then set float and bulk separate. Some members stated that on USE 2 float and bulk were locked together.

I currently have bulk set at 27 or 27.5 volts and float set 0.5 volts lower. This works quite well, I have one cell that is a slight runner and this setting keeps it right with other cells. I found I didn't need the few AH's above that.
 
Exodus,
I’m following this closely because it looks almost exactly like what I’m considering. I’m expecting to DIY the battery. Looks great so far. What model is your a/c
 
Looks great so far. What model is your a/c
Thanks,
Going to take some pictures hopefully this weekend when I get the wiring cleared up. Had it all just cobbled together to test components. Seems like most of it is working - aside the breaker.

I got Dometic Duotherm Brisk 13500 BTU - not the Brisk 2 - the older version.
I've added a Supco SPP6 Hard Start Kit. (I did that way before the inverter setup - makes it easier on the generator or poor campground connections)

Actually the hardest part of the interior install was routing the wires underneith the couch and cabinets of the RV.

Next big projects - clearing the roof of obstacles - removing the TV antenna and patching the hole - replacing the front roof vent with a low profile one. Then getting those large panels somehow up there :p
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Growatt AC and DC wiring complete, Solar next.

IMG_1580.JPG

IMG_1584.JPG
Batteries still need mounting so that they don't bounce around.
 
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