RV DC Grounding

smoothJoey

Ooga Booga!
With that, if I get continuity between the positive coming from the DC panel and the chassis, can I assume that the white wire that is supposed to go to the battery is in fact just tied to the frame?
See if you get tone between the dc busbar and the negative white wire that run from original battery and the frame.
 

TAS CPA

Solar Enthusiast
Here is my map created from your pictures.
Its a work in progress and be warned my clerical skills suck.
Code:
some_hole {
    green circle {
        white {
            ground
            converter.eg<->probably to the frame or to the original battery
            remove
        }
    }
    orange circle {
        white {
            negative
            converter.neg<->dc_panel.neg
            remove
        }
        black {
            postive
            converter.pos<->dc_panel.pos
            remove
    }
    yellow circle {
        white {
            negative
            dc_panel.neg<->probably to the frame or to the original battery
            ?
    }
}
dc_panel {
    yellow circle {
        white {
            negative
            dc_panel_busbar<->dc_panel_board.neg
            remove
        }
    }
    orange circle {
        black {
            positive
            dc_panel.neg<->converter.neg
            remove
        }
    }
    pink circle {
        red {
            positive
            dc_panel<->original_battery
            ?
        }
    }
}
original_battery {
    no circle {
        red {
            positive
            original_battery<->breaker<->dc_panel.pos
            ?
        }
        white {
            negative
            original_battery<->frame
            ?
    }
}
Is this code supposed to produce an image of some sort?
 

HRTKD

Boondocker
I have a WFCO main panel. A negative wire coming off of that goes down to a distribution panel under the trailer in which the 7-pin cable terminates in. There is a lot going on in that distribution panel.

The battery on the tongue of my trailer does have a negative cable that terminates on the frame of the trailer. There is no (direct) negative cable between that termination and the underbody distribution panel. My distribution panel is in a bad spot that is difficult to access, so I get what I need done in there and close it up without doing any further examination.
 

grizzzman

Some say "Why" and some say "Why not?"

Not trying to remove the power center. In fact my goal is to keep it and minimize the number of wires I need to pull to that location.

For that location and those wires, the one wire I just don't know where it goes is the white wire (yellow circle in post #3). WFCO manual shows it goes to the batter, but there is no white wire running to the battery other than from the frame of the RV.

Any ideas on how to test/figure out where that goes. Removing the underbelly of the RV is not a simple task.
My bet an ohm meter hooked to the wire and the frame would answer your questions.
 

TAS CPA

Solar Enthusiast
The trailer brakes need a battery.
The trailer brake battery and the running gear get their power from the 7 pin tow cable.
You don't want your house batteries drawing or sending beaucoup current over the tow cable.
Would you consider keeping the systems isolated?
Really don't want to have to keep two systems. 7 Pin will not end up with a power connection going to the trailer. The 7 Pin will no longer feed the trailer with any power.
 

smoothJoey

Ooga Booga!
Really don't want to have to keep two systems. 7 Pin will not end up with a power connection going to the trailer. The 7 Pin will no longer feed the trailer with any power.
Just to make sure I understand.
The 7 pin will power the breaks under normal operation and the house battery will power the brakes in the event of breakaway?
 

smoothJoey

Ooga Booga!
Just to make sure I understand.
The 7 pin will power the breaks under normal operation and the house battery will power the brakes in the event of breakaway?
If this is the case then you can remove all the wires in the map.
Code:
some_hole {
    green circle {
        white {
            ground
            converter.eg<->probably to the frame or to the original battery
            remove
        }
    }
    orange circle {
        white {
            negative
            converter.neg<->dc_panel.neg
            remove
        }
        black {
            postive
            converter.pos<->dc_panel.pos
            remove
    }
    yellow circle {
        white {
            ground
            dc_panel.neg<->probably to the frame or to the original battery
            remove
    }
}
dc_panel {
    yellow circle {
        white {
            negative
            dc_panel_busbar<->dc_panel_board.neg
            remove
        }
    }
    orange circle {
        black {
            positive
            dc_panel.neg<->converter.neg
            remove
        }
    }
    pink circle {
        red {
            positive
            dc_panel<->original_battery
            remove
        }
    }
}
original_battery {
    no circle {
        red {
            positive
            original_battery<->breaker<->dc_panel.pos
            remove
        }
        white {
            negative
            original_battery<->frame
            remove
    }
}
 

TAS CPA

Solar Enthusiast
I have a WFCO main panel. A negative wire coming off of that goes down to a distribution panel under the trailer in which the 7-pin cable terminates in. There is a lot going on in that distribution panel.

The battery on the tongue of my trailer does have a negative cable that terminates on the frame of the trailer. There is no (direct) negative cable between that termination and the underbody distribution panel. My distribution panel is in a bad spot that is difficult to access, so I get what I need done in there and close it up without doing any further examination.
You scared me enough that I went out there and cut a hole in the trailer bottom. Didn't want to do it, but it answered all my questions for today. Now I just need take a chill pill for a little while.

All of the white wires from both the old converter and from the distribution panel run out through the frame and are bolted to the frame in the wheel well. There is only the one red/+ cable that runs to the old battery position.

Chassis Ground.jpg
 

TAS CPA

Solar Enthusiast
Told ya an ohm meter would have worked.
Actually did that thanks for the idea, but decided the surgery was worth the slice since I'll need to run wires to the control panel and having a way to guide them up behind the shower would be easier being able to reach in there.
 
Top