RV Inverter Suggestions

[Ccd011]

I know this is lengthy but want to give all the details I can think of for the best solutions and suggestions, I probably still missed a few things as well. I have a 50 Amp RV that I am planning on building out a full solar and battery storage set up. I have a few “energy efficient” upgrades I plan to do over time like more efficient refrigerator and mini split AC’s as budget allows. So, the initial design of the system will require more than in the future, or so I can hope. We travel full time in the RV so when we are in RV parks with hook ups we do enjoy everything in the RV like washer/dryer (120V-10A), both AC’s, etc. but when boon docking we are pretty good (I’m good, she’s getting better) at conserving energy/battery storage. However, I would like to be able to run the entire RV (could do with out washer/dryer) if I want or if it was needed while on solar/batteries/inverter(s). As I said, I do plan on loosing some amp draw overtime but that won’t be right away, I know currently if I try to run to much on 30 Amp hookup (single phase 30 amp with dog bone splitting L1 to both L1 and L2 on the same phase) I will overload the system and flip the breaker. If I had to guess my current max amp draw would be somewhere around 35-40 amps or so. I still plan to do some thorough power consumption calculation prior to finalizing my design and/or purchasing any equipment. Due to real estate restriction (30’ RV roof), I will only be able to fit ~3500 watts or so of panels. I really would like to use 48V server rack batteries, but I would sacrifice that if I have to.

The problem I have is picking an inverter/charger which will determine the rest of the design/build. I would like to have 50A split phase thru capability for when I am on full hookups and doing laundry and everything else. However, between having a 30A portable generator (for poor solar days a couple hours to help keep up) and going to random RV parks across the country there will be times that I will be hooked up to a standard NEMA TT-30P 30A plug with a dog bone creating 120V on each leg in the same phase. I know the Victron MP 2X120V can do exactly what I want as far as AC in and AC out. The downfall to using the MP is only being 12V or 24V, as well as with Victron equipment you have to have so many other components (Cerbo, MPPT, etc.) and more complicated installation and mounting. Which is why I am really wanting an all-in-one Inverter/Charger/Solar Controller unit. My question is, are there any all-in-one units that have the functionality of different AC input “options” but maintaining L1 and L2 output sources which don’t have to be split phase without reconfiguring settings or more each time the input source changes from split phase to single phase? I would not be opposed to have two single phase units in parallel with a Master and slave creating both L1 and L2, but can I split the inputs L1 to one unit and L2 to the other without reconfiguring when the input source changes? I do know a big downfall to most of the all-in-one units is the idle consumption compared to the Victron units. I really hope this all makes sense. I am option to any and all suggestions.

 

[justinm001]

30amps is 120v so 3600w while 50a is 240v so 12000w. I say this because if you're tripping a 30a breaker you might need a bit more power but not a lot so 50a/120v would work great and just leave L2 unplugged.

My 5000w Quattro 48 is 100a so it'll allow me to pull 50a from shore then power assist 5000w as needed to give me basically 100a from 50a shore. It runs 35w or so idle which is great. Plus you can add a 2nd later.

 

[justinm001]

I'd seriously consider going with 2 normal MP2 3000s and setting in split phase. This would allow you to run 30a but still get split phase 240v in the rv (perfect for mini split). The only downside is you get 3000w on each leg instead of 6000w. It think you're looking at about 50w idle.

Problem is if you barely have enough room to run 2 major appliances on each leg (AC/washer/microwave) so yes you can run all 4 at the same time but nothing else. And if you run 2 on the same leg you can't use that leg for anything else. But 2x3000w is WAY better than 1x3000

 

[time2roll]

I would tend to get the big all in one. For other power input options, such as 30A site or smallish generator, a separate charger direct to the battery would be my choice on such a system. No need to reconfigure, just let the inverter draw from the battery.

 

[HRTKD]

If you do much boondocking, the idle draw of an all-in-one may be more than you want. I do mostly boondocking with 2360 watts of PV on the roof and a 48v 280 Ah battery. My toy hauler is 30 amp with only on air conditioner, so it doesn't have anywhere the load that yours does. I run the air conditioner quite a bit. On move day I'll turn the air conditioner to 75°F before departing camp and leave it that way until I reach my destination.

I'm using a single Victron Quattro 48/3000. A 48 volt system wasn't necessary. It did make the utilization of the solar easier. I'm using two 150/35 solar charge controller for the rooftop PV and another one for 400 watts of ground deployed solar.

The number of components in a Victron system don't bother me. It does require a good amount of wiring and planning when arranging the components.

A 24 volt system would have worked as well. The jump to 48 volt limits the selection of peripheral components. I have to spend quite a bit more time researching and planning for the 48 volt components.

Note that Victron's current naming standard for their inverters is in VA (Volt Amps), not watts. So the 48/3000 is 3000 volt amps, not watts. The actual rating in watts is 2400.